Muscari video - growing muscari in the garden, planting and storing bulbs
Video about muscari. How to properly grow muscari in the garden. Types and varieties of muscari. How to plant muscari, what kind of muscari needs care. We look at the video.
Video about muscari
We also recommend reading the article "Muscari - Planting and Care". A lot of useful information.
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Muscari or mouse hyacinth: planting and care
Muscari is a beautiful spring flower, very unpretentious and very beautiful.
The plant belongs to the "Onion" and "Asparagus" families, grows very well, throws out early, beautiful panicle flowers. Muscarias are small plants, reaching a height of no more than 25 centimeters, with white, pink, blue and blue tiny bells, collected on one spike-shaped branch. There are many varieties and species of this plant. There are more than 40 species of this flower growing all over the world. But flower growers of our climatic zone give particular preference to Caucasian or Armenian muscarica. It has the deep blue color of the flower panicle itself, and sharp, needle-like, green leaves that adorn the beds in the shaded areas of the infield with their appearance. Muscari is placed anywhere in the garden, under trees and bushes, where normal conditions are created for growing these plants. Muscari, throughout the winter, if the air temperature does not drop below 0 degrees, retains green foliage. As soon as the snow melts, the plant wakes up and begins to grow. Muscari is distinguished by its resistance to low temperatures; spring frosts are not afraid of this flower. Muscari blooms very early, it is practically the first flower in the garden, giving beautiful, small and good smelling flowers. Before foliage appears on woody plants, bulbous plants receive enough sunlight and warmth to grow and bloom, while continuing to grow under large trees or shrubs. And when the trees turn green, the muscari flowers will already fade.
Muscari belong to the class of plants with a short growing season. After the end of flowering, in the garden where the muscari bloomed, annual flower plants are planted, cutting off the foliage of the muscarias. Muscari look very beautiful in multi-tiered flower arrangements of large, red or yellow tulips, and pale white, orange-yellow daffodils. Muscari panicles provide a striking contrast to the rounded shapes of these comparatively large flowers.
Description of muscari muscari or mouse hyacinth
Muscari Pink Sunrise Muscari Pink Sunrise photo
Muscari (Muscari) is a genus of perennial bulbous plants belonging to the Asparagus family, which includes 44 species. Some are cultivated as ornamental, and there are many varieties of muscari with a variety of flower colors. Their bulbs are small, ovoid, up to 2 cm in diameter.
The plant is an ephemeroid, for more than half a year it is in a dormant state, only awakening for a short time in order to decorate the world around it. The bulb, covered with light outer scales, accumulates nutrients during growth, which it uses, starting flowering in early spring. In the spring, narrow linear leaves come out, collected in a basal rosette and low peduncles. Some species have leaves that appear in the fall and remain overwintered under the snow.
Muscari yellow Golden Fragrance Muscari macrocarpum ‘Golden Fragrance’ photo
Flowers with a barrel-shaped, cylindrical or tubular perianth, consisting of 6 fused petals, are collected in a racemose inflorescence with a delicate stimulating aroma. 6 stamens are attached to the perianth in two rows, the fruit is a three-celled capsule with wrinkled, dark seeds, which are used for seed propagation within a year after harvest. Distributed throughout Europe, North Africa, Western Asia, the Mediterranean. Some species climb high into the mountains.
Muscari outdoor care
Caring for muscari is not difficult: this is a training plant for a novice florist. Muscari need watering only at the very beginning of the growing season, but, as a rule, at this time the soil is still wet after snow melt or spring rains. And the dormant period does not require soil moisture. If there was no snow in the winter, and the spring turned out to be dry, then there is a need for regular watering.
If the soil on the site is not too fertile, this can be corrected by feeding with organic fertilizers. With humus or compost, you can fertilize the soil in the fall when digging: 5 kilograms of fertilizer are consumed for each square meter. Subject to the regularity of such autumn digging with organic matter, muscari can grow in one area for up to ten years. But then you still have to seat them.
Muscari blooms for a little longer than three weeks, and does not require special care at this time, just loosen the soil slightly after watering, trying not to damage the bulb, remove weeds and remove wilted flowers if they spoil the appearance of your flower bed. If the quality of the flowers has deteriorated over the years, then it is time to transplant the muscari.
Muscari transplant Vegetative propagation of muscari by separating the babies from the mother's bulb is carried out, as a rule, during the autumn digging, somewhere from mid to late October. When to transplant muscari, we already wrote - after 5-6 years of growth in one area, although when it is really time to dig out muscari, you will be prompted by the type of your flower bed. Muscari bulbs are removed from the ground, the babies are separated from the mother's bulb (there can be many, up to 30 pieces) and planted in the manner described above.
As soon as the muscari have faded, you need to carefully remove the peduncles and feed with liquid potassium-phosphorus fertilizer, which will help the bulbs to winter well. Reduce watering gradually until the leaves of the plant turn yellow and wither, and once this process is complete, do not water the plant again. Autumn is the time for digging the site and transplanting muscari who have reached the age of five. If your muscari is still too young to divide and transplant, simply remove any yellowed leaves from the area. Young plantings of muscari, especially if they grow on it next to other bulbs, must be mulched with peat for the winter.
An unpretentious, charming flower will perfectly fit into any interior, bring special spring freshness and comfort to a city apartment, an open balcony or terrace. Growing mouse hyacinth in a separate flower container is easy. For these purposes, a container with a large number of holes at the bottom is chosen to remove excess water and eliminate liquid stagnation. Drainage material - expanded clay, broken brick or crushed walnut shells - is placed first in the flower container. Further, loose, fertilized, permeable soil is poured. Bulbs are planted in moist soil.
One of the features of growing muscari at home is the short growing season. The plant is kept indoors only during flowering. After the flowers wither and the leaves dry, the pot is transferred to the garden and partially buried. This procedure will allow the plant to form bulbs. The muscari flower pot stays in the garden until the end of winter.
With the beginning of spring, the pot is returned to the room, the bulbs are transplanted together with the earth into a new flower container, or the pot is placed in a beautiful planter.
Even in spite of the unpretentious nature of the plant, keeping it at home requires much more attention and energy than its counterparts growing in the open field.
Muscari can be called a flower for busy people. Those who love beauty around them, but are not able to pay due attention to it. The flower endures flaws in content. The only time a plant needs care is during the flowering period. The hyacinth needs strength to open the flower. During this period, the soil around the muscari should be kept moist. It is extremely dangerous to flood the planting site with water, it is very susceptible to excess and stagnation of water.
Prolonged exposure to wet soil can cause rotting of the bulbs.
After 1.5-2 weeks, after the beginning of flowering, you can weaken your attention to watering the flower. Moreover, after flowering, the hyacinth goes into "sleep mode" and there is enough natural precipitation for the comfortable growth of the plant.
Once planting a mouse hyacinth in the garden, after 3-4 years you can find a rather densely overgrown area. Muscari are thinned out as needed, when the flower has grown and in case of transplantation to a new place. To exclude self-seeding, after flowering, the arrow with the seeds is cut off.
Fertilization and feeding
To maintain active growth, bright and lush flowering, the plant needs additional feeding. In the spring, when digging, organic fertilizers are applied to the soil at the rate of 4–5 kg of raw materials per square meter.
To provide the flower with all nutrients, compost is added to the soil in the fall. This will allow the bulbs to gain strength, survive the winter and wake up in the spring.
In a potted culture, muscari needs fertilizing twice a month during the growing season. Use a liquid special combined fertilizer for home ornamental plants.
Hyacinth is a long-liver, in one place it can grow quietly for 8-10 years.
How to care for muscari in the garden
Mouse hyacinth is one of the first garden plants that pleases with its flowering, long before the rest of the plantings bloom. Nature has decreed that gentle, bright muscari panicles are not lost in the middle of the site. And all because nothing prevents the plant from reaching for the sun - the grass has not yet grown, the leaves on the trees have not blossomed.
The flower will put up with any place in the garden, be it a bright, open meadow or at the foot of trees in partial shade. The main thing is that the hyacinth is not planted in the lowlands and low areas of the garden. Prolonged stagnation of water is destructive for a flower. To leave completely undemanding. Bulbs in the ground calmly endure winters in central Russia.
Proper care and maintenance will allow muscari to form larger and healthier bulbs, flowering will be brighter, more intense and lasting.
General care rules are suitable for all types of mouse hyacinth, however, some varieties require more careful attention from the grower. So, the broadleaf species and Osh need soil mulching.
Periodically, the soil around the bulb is checked for weeds. Unwanted vegetation, dried leaves are removed, the soil is loosened. Moreover, the leaves from the plant are removed after their complete withering away. During the period of active growth, the plant cannot be completely cut off. As a result of such actions, bulbs suffer, which react sharply to a sharp interruption in the growth process. If you often cut off the aerial part, then the bulbs are gradually crushed and after a while they will simply disappear.
An amazing perennial is very tenacious, able to take root on the ground with any mechanical composition. If you set yourself a goal, provide the flower with ideal growth conditions, then first of all, loose, fertile soil is selected. The earthen substrate should pass water well, stagnant liquid is detrimental to the plant.
Muscari after flowering
If the plant was not grown for cutting, then after flowering, the stems should be cut off. Moreover, it is better to carry out the procedure for removing the inflorescence until the seeds are fully ripe. Ripening fruits take a lot of energy from the bulb. Many gardeners do not remove the inflorescences, they allow the fruits to ripen. Thus, allowing the plant to reproduce by seed.
Preparing for winter
One of the advantages of muscari is its resistance to the cold season. Dry soil, dead leaves will serve as a good shelter for the bulb for the winter. Additional shelter is required only for some species and varieties.
Forcing flowers from a muscari bulb at home
Muscari is good for forcing. For this, large muscari bulbs are selected, the size of which must be at least 3 cm in diameter. Bulbs intended for forcing are stored at + 20… 24 ° C until October. Since October, the temperature is reduced by 7-8 degrees. The room in which the bulbs are stored must be well ventilated. Before forcing the muscari, the bulbs must be disinfected in a pink solution of potassium permanganate.
For forcing muscari flowers at home, planting material is planted in mid-October - early November. The soil must be well moistened and drained.
The bulbs are buried 1–2 cm and kept in a moderately moist state at a temperature of +9 ° C for 5 weeks. Then the temperature is lowered to + 4 ... 5 ° C and the bulbs are left for another 11-12 weeks. After that, the temperature is raised to + 12 ... 15 ° C, and after about 3 weeks flowering begins.
Forcing plants that have finished blooming are returned to open ground.
Myrtle is a slender tree in itself, and if left to grow as it is, it will still look great. But sometimes, for decorative purposes, they require light pruning. In the spring, cut off dead branches before the flowers are in full bloom to make room for healthy new growth.This is also a good time to remove the lower limbs to help shape the tree as it develops and to reduce its overall volume. Prune basal shoots and intertwining branches.
Watch out for pests. Myrtles are often favorites of common garden pests such as aphids and beetles. Drive away stray invaders by spraying them with a mild insecticidal soap. In many cases, removing unwanted insects will keep the plant free from mold.
Check your myrtle regularly for signs of illness. Powdery mildew, black mildew, and leaf blight are some of the threats myrtles face when they bloom. In most cases, the consequences they cause are harmless and go away on their own over time. Placing trees where they can enjoy full sunshine and good air circulation often helps prevent disease.
But if infestation occurs, prune moldy trees to increase airflow around the trunk. Remove any cut branches and disinfect the pruning tools before using them again to keep the disease from spreading.
Diseases that do not go away on their own after a few weeks can be treated with a chemical fungicide. Be sure to follow the directions on the label of the product you are using to avoid damaging the wood.