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5 rules for planting hydrangeas in autumn so that the seedlings will definitely take root

5 rules for planting hydrangeas in autumn so that the seedlings will definitely take root


Autumn is considered a favorable moment for planting hydrangeas, since during this period there is always a suitable temperature and soil moisture, and there is also no intense heat. But in order for the flower to quickly take root and winter comfortably, it is important to follow the rules necessary for this.

Favorable conditions

You can start planting hydrangeas in autumn starting from the first half of September. But this rule is more suitable for central Russia, and in the southern regions, planting can be extended until the end of November. In any case, you need to focus on the weather conditions.

The ideal option is to plant a flower 3-4 weeks before the start of frost. This time is enough for the plants to take root and get stronger.

At the same time, remember that only those flowers with a well-developed rhizome are suitable for autumn planting. If you choose a younger plant, it will not have time to take root before the onset of frost. These hydrangeas are best planted in spring.

The best place

Hydrangea feels great both in sunny and shaded areas with diffused light. Therefore, the main requirement for the planting site of a flower is the absence of strong winds and drafts.

It is better to place a bush near a fence or some kind of summer cottage that can become a shelter. You should also avoid lowlands, which often accumulate a large amount of moisture. Such conditions are completely unsuitable for hydrangeas.

If the autumn is rainy, the first time after planting, spill the soil with a solution of potassium permanganate. This will help prevent fungal infections from developing.

Good soil

To make the hydrangea as comfortable as possible, plant it in loose, nutritious and sour soil. To achieve such conditions, you need to prepare the soil for the seedlings in advance.

To do this, a specially prepared nutrient mixture is laid in each dug hole.

To prepare it, mix sour high-moor peat and coarse river sand (in a 1: 1 ratio), add urea (1 tablespoon), superphosphate (4 tablespoons) and potassium sulfate (2 tablespoons) to the resulting mixture. ).

Mix all ingredients thoroughly and distribute the mixture to the wells. These nutrients are enough for young bushes for a whole year.

Protection

Immediately after planting, the plants must be mulched. This will help to maintain the required level of soil moisture for longer and protect the bushes from gusts of wind. Spruce branches are best suited for this.

If the fall turns out to be dry, do not forget to water the flowers with water from time to time. When you notice the emergence of new shoots, this will be a signal that the hydrangeas have taken root in a new place.

Shelter

In order for the plant to successfully overwinter, a couple of days before the onset of frost, you need to build a suitable shelter for it. But before that, do not forget to cut off all leaves and dried inflorescences. So the hydrangea will more easily endure the winter cold. In adult seedlings, branches can be pruned.

To build a shelter, start with a near-trunk circle, where you need to lay out a layer of dry sphagnum or sawdust.

After that, wrap the bushes with burlap or spandbond, and then carefully secure the material with rope. In the spring, the shelter must be removed, and the old layer of mulch must be replaced with a fresh layer of peat, coniferous sawdust or humus.

Don't forget that hydrangeas are moody plants. Therefore, try to treat each stage of the autumn planting with special attention.

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How to properly plant a hydrangea in the garden

An ornamental perennial shrub grows beautifully in quiet corners of the garden, open to the sun in the morning. Despite the fact that hydrangea does not tolerate a lack of moisture, wetlands should be avoided. It is also highly undesirable to plant the plant in poor sandy soil that is rapidly losing moisture.

When choosing a permanent place for hydrangeas, you should choose closed corners protected from drafts and winds. The nearest building or fence should be removed at least one and a half to two meters. The planting of the specimen is carried out in the off-season. The rules for spring and autumn planting of hydrangeas have significant differences and require additional study.


The main garden types of hydrangea

Despite the variety of forms, this article discusses the species that take root and grow in our latitudes. Hydrangea suffers from intense heat, many species that love partial shade slow down their growth in the sun, their inflorescences become very shallow. But there are those that tolerate heat well.

Blooming hydrangea

Large-leaved hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla)

Flowering occurs in July-August. Flowers of common forms are collected in corymbose inflorescences with a diameter of up to 20 cm, flowers of sterile forms are collected in lush spherical inflorescences with a diameter of up to 30 cm in white, pink, blue.

Large-leaved hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla)

Bush up to 2 m tall with large wide ovoid leaves. Heat-loving: requires shelter in frosty winters, tolerates frosts down to -10 ° C. The most common garden form in the world. The original form for potted hydrangeas. When potassium salts and aluminum sulfate are added to the ground, it allows you to get blue and blue inflorescences.

Hydrangea paniculata (Hydrangea paniculata)

Blooms from mid-summer to late autumn. Flowers are collected in dense panicles of pyramidal inflorescences up to 30 cm in length, color from light green to white, at the end of summer changes to dull purple. Shrub from 2 to 5 m in height or small tree up to 10 m.

Hydrangea paniculata (Hydrangea paniculata)

Differs in durability, unpretentiousness (grows in swampy, gas-polluted places), frost resistance.

Hydrangea bretschneideri

The bush is compact, with a wide rounded decorative crown up to 3 m in height. Bloom from mid-July to August. The flowers are small, fruiting, collected in wide inflorescences in the form of umbrellas about 15 cm in diameter. The middle flowers in the inflorescence fall early, the marginal flowers bloom for a long time. The color at the beginning of flowering is bright white, towards the end - purple or reddish. The leaves are dark green, ovoid, 12 cm long. The shoots are hairy, reddish, with bark exfoliation in the form of thin plates, completely lignified by winter.

Hydrangea bretschneideri. Photo from the site en.wikipedia.org

The most winter-hardy variety, drought-resistant. It can be propagated by seeds.

Stalked hydrangea (Hydrangea petiolaris)

The shrub vine is attached to the support with air suction cups, reaches up to 25 m in height, in the absence of support it spreads along the ground. Perfectly braids arches, gazebos. The flowers are white-pink, collected in corymbose inflorescences up to 25 cm in diameter, quickly fall off.

Stalked hydrangea (Hydrangea petiolaris)

Abundant flowering is observed in open areas, but also grows well in the shade.

Ash hydrangea, or gray (Hydrangea cinerea)

Shrub, reaches a height of 2 m. Used as a hedge. Blooms until late autumn.

Ash hydrangea, or gray (Hydrangea cinerea). Photo from the site dachni-rady.com

The flowers are sterile, small, in the form of numerous scutes. Leaves are oval, membranous, dull green.


Watch the video: Potting up Perennials - How to Root Jasmine, Abelia, Oakleaf Hydrangeas - Plant Propagation EP7