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Potatoes

Potatoes


Vsevolozhsk breeding station, production and sale of elite potato seeds of varieties: Aurora, Ryabinushka, Impala, Rosara, Red Scarlett, Red Lady, Queen Anna and others and others. +7 (812) 409-47-99, +7 (921) 573-37-92

LLC "Semyonovodstvo" in the village of Suida, Gatchinsky district. Production and sale of elite seeds of promising varieties of potatoes, oats, barley to organizations and individuals. +7 (81371) 60-444 ,, +7 (921) 795-96-63

Our regular author is the potato grower G.D. Sherman, on the basis of many years of experience, made a table that allows a novice gardener to accurately calculate the need for potato planting material.

If you dream of early harvests of potatoes, then introduce the seedling method, well, and if the amount of purchased elite potatoes is small, shortly before planting, the tubers can be cut into several parts. We tell in detail

Often, techniques that increase the number of sprouts do not give a significant increase in yield. For example, a ring cut. There is an effect from it. But insignificant. I spent a lot of time experimenting with this technique.

Stolons appear only on the white part of the stem, which is hidden from light. How to increase the length of the stem below the soil surface without burying the tubers? The answer is simple - you need to germinate the tubers to a sprout length of 2-3 cm, and plant them down by sprouts

According to the terms of potato ripening, the following groups of varieties are distinguished: early (early ripening) - ripen in 60-70 days, medium-early varieties - 70-80 days, mid-season varieties - 80-100 days, medium-late varieties - 100-110 days, late varieties - 110- 140 days

There are as many ways of growing potatoes as there are gardeners. Most gardeners cultivate it in the usual - classical way with planting tubers in the soil, hilling, weeding, etc. But there are also those who like to experiment.

Novofert is a water-soluble, complex (nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium) fertilizer containing meso- (magnesium, calcium, sulfur) and trace elements (copper, iron, zinc, manganese) in chelated form, as well as boron, molybdenum in mineral form. 8 (910) 313-80-13

For those who believe that you can grow potatoes from tubers left by your grandparents all your life, this article is not interesting, but if you want to get four times more harvest from the same area, or reduce this area by four times, read

Suitable for storage are medium and late varieties of potatoes; early maturing begin to sprout in October. The tubers are kept for 10-14 days in a ventilated room, - the food part in the dark, the seed part - in diffused light.

I pass my love for delicious potatoes through the soil. To get good potatoes, you need to start from the soil, that is, create such conditions so that the variety does not lose starch, does not turn black during cooking, does not rot during storage, does not emit bad odors.

Common scab is widespread and highly harmful. Affected tubers have an unattractive appearance, reduced palatability, poor keeping quality during the winter storage period

Limited land plots lead to long-term cultivation of potatoes in one place. Because of this, pathogens accumulate, the soil is depleted. How to organize a potato crop rotation in the conditions of 6 acres?

First of all, you need healthy planting material: the first reproduction, the elite, the super-elite, etc. Of course, these should be ultra-early varieties. With proper agricultural technology, a plot of 100 m is enough to provide a family with potatoes2

Tubers cut in spring long before planting can lose a lot of moisture - wrinkle. On tubers cut before planting, sprouts will not have time to appear. In this case, we have little chance of getting bushes with the optimal number of trunks.

Throughout the growing season, caring for potato plantings consists in the constant maintenance of the soil without weeds and in a loose state. And it is also necessary to combat its pests, primarily the Colorado potato beetle and diseases.

According to botanical characteristics, vegetable plants grown in Russia are grouped into twelve families. According to the type of food organs, plants are divided into ten groups.

Most amateur potato growers receive no more than 200 kg per one hundred square meters. This is an insultingly low harvest that does not cover the huge labor costs. But experienced gardeners know that a potato harvest of about a ton per hundred square meters is real.

With a lack of nitrogen, potatoes have a small leaf surface, which leads to a decrease in starch. Excess nitrogen contributes to the powerful development of tops and lengthens the growing season, which also reduces the yield and starchiness of tubers

Often potato growers are perplexed: there was a luxurious tops of the potatoes and suddenly it was gone in 3-4 days. There are only 90-100 small tubers left under the bush. Phytophthora did its dirty work - a disease that poses a particular danger

The sod along the entire length of the strip is bent towards itself so that its entire surface is covered. The tubers are laid out in advance, on the sod along the entire length of the strip, after which the sod is folded. The tubers are in the center of high furrows.

Potatoes, like any other crop, have their own preferences. These are: an area that is not flooded even with heavy rains, good illumination, fertility and looseness of the soil, timely watering and an optimal temperature of 18 ... 20 ° С

For the Leningrad Region, early, mid-early and mid-season potato varieties are suitable, since they manage to timely collect a full-fledged crop of tubers and escape from the onset of rainy weather and late blight.

The best option for planting when the site has been dug up in the fall, with the incorporation of a full rate of manure. On heavy soils, 2/3 of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are applied in the fall - superphosphate, potassium chloride (so that chlorine, undesirable for potatoes, is washed out)

Everyone wants to grow young potatoes as early as possible. There are already proven technologies here, and there are findings of inquisitive gardeners. We will talk about how to get early potatoes in garden and summer cottages.

The defeat of potato tubers by a nematode has now become such a serious problem that the leading breeders of our region are now setting themselves up to release, first of all, nematode-resistant varieties.

Pests really hide in plant debris. But their enemies - entomophages - also find shelter there. In the meadow, you will not see as many pests as in your area. Destroying plant debris, we destroy entomophages, and bring harm, not benefit

To speed up the melting of snow, I scatter coal dust. The sun heats up the dust particles, and the snow melts faster. Another technique is a slope to the south. It is almost invisible, but a slope to the south of only 1 degree is equivalent to moving the site 100 km south.

We place potatoes in places where there were strawberries before. We mow its leaves, but we do not dig up the planting. On top we pour a thick layer of hay, then a layer of fertile soil from under zucchini, pumpkins, cucumbers, watermelons and melons.

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The king of the vegetable garden is potatoes. Part II

The soil for growing potatoes should be loose and moisture-consuming. Never add fresh manure to the soil - neither in autumn nor in spring! Otherwise, you cannot avoid diseases, deterioration in the quality of tubers and a decrease in yield. But half-rotted manure or compost will only benefit the potatoes - its yield will almost double!

The best guideline in resolving this issue is the beginning of leaf blooming on the birch, as well as the flowering of bird cherry. This means that the soil has warmed up enough and you can start planting. If you want to get very early potatoes, focus on the readiness of the soil (squeezed in your hand and thrown down, it should freely crumble into lumps). But in this case, one cannot do without shelters - this Latin American "alien" is very sensitive to frost.

In a cold, protracted spring, it is better to use ridges, which must be prepared 10 days before planting, so that the soil has time to warm up properly.

In a small area, we cannot afford to randomly throw tubers into the holes and just cover them with earth. You need to plant potatoes carefully and with love. Yes, you will have to spend a little more time, but the result will be excellent.

At the bottom of each hole, be sure to put a third of a shovel of half-rotted manure (or compost), a pinch of superphosphate, mix well with the soil and put potatoes on this nutritious "feather bed". Since we took medium-sized tubers for planting, we plant one potato in the hole. At the same time, we closely monitor that there are sprouts on top, and the umbilical cord below, i.e. the place of the former attachment of the potato to the mother tuber. In this case, the seedlings will appear faster and will be more friendly. And finally, each tuber "powder" with ash. If the soil is already too dry, pour some water into the holes.

Potatoes need to be planted shallowly, about 10 cm.But if the spring is warm and dry, then the planting depth can be increased to 15 cm.

The distance between plants should be at least 50 cm (for early varieties - a little less), between rows - at least 70 cm.In principle, the more, the better: with a free planting, the tubers develop better, and it will be more convenient to spud the plants.

Do not be afraid to bury seedlings!

Under favorable weather conditions, early varieties planted with a "beard" of roots, as a rule, sprout in 7-10 days tubers with short green shoots - in two to three weeks. And at this moment it is necessary to carry out a very important procedure - to cover the broken seedlings with earth again. This technique gives an amazing effect: after a couple of days, powerful and dense shoots break out. A real rebellion of a young force rushing to the sun!

Of course, seedlings do not appear at the same time, so the plant has to be buried within several days. And small mounds of earth around the newly emerged plants will help you not to bury them again. By the way, this technique often helps out during recurrent frosts, which most often occur during the period of emergence of potatoes.

He also needs water, food and oxygen.

When the seedlings grow up to 10-15 cm, hilling should be carried out. This should be done after rain or watering: in this way, the tuber and roots receive the oxygen they need for normal development. In addition, moist soil encourages the formation of new roots on the stems. But most importantly, tubers develop at a considerable depth and therefore do not accumulate harmful substances that not only worsen the taste of potatoes, but also cause poisoning.

It is necessary to huddle the plants as high as possible, leaving only the tops on the surface. If the weather is hot, and it is impossible to water the plants, then loosening is carried out. However, this should be done shallowly, trying to scoop up a little soil from the row spacings. After two to three weeks, a second hilling is carried out, and before flowering - the last hilling.

When buds are formed, it is necessary to feed the plants with slurry (1 liter per bucket of water), spending 1–1.5 liters of solution for each bush. At the same time, the soil should be moist, and after feeding, the bushes must be earthed.

During flowering, it is advisable to powder the plants with ash - this is both an additional feeding for them, and a way to scare off the Colorado potato beetle.

During the period of growth and flowering, plants need regular watering, approximately every 7-10 days (including rain). After flowering, potatoes need watering only in prolonged drought. And 20-30 days before harvesting it is not watered at all.

Undoubtedly, this is late blight. In a rainy summer, this insidious disease can ruin the entire crop in two or three days. However, the rare placement of plants, contributing to good ventilation of the plantings, helps to avoid a strong spread of the disease.

Bordeaux mixture or 1% solution of copper sulfate is still a radical remedy for late blight. The first spraying is carried out before flowering, and then repeated every 10 days (less often in dry weather). By the way, early varieties practically do not suffer from late blight, because just do not have time to get sick.

As you know, in recent years, new varieties of potatoes have appeared that are not susceptible to infection by late blight and attacks of the Colorado potato beetle. However, it should be borne in mind that genetically modified varieties usually have such resistance. So the final choice is yours.

The suggested recommendations seem complicated only at first glance. Believe me, following them for the first time and, as a result, having received a wonderful result, in subsequent years, you will want to follow these simple rules again and again without much difficulty.


How to properly potatoes or potatoes

Traditionally, among the Slavs, even before the introduction of potatoes, the most consumed products were root crops - turnip and rutabaga. Do not think that the place of potatoes is on the sidelines of gastronomic delights. It can be used to prepare not only a boring side dish, but also various “goodies” such as pancakes, casseroles, gratin dauphinouis, fries, as well as baked potatoes, boiled and stuffed.

Although this vegetable is not as old as porridge in Russia, the popularity of potatoes today is higher than any product. And from ready-made dishes, only bread is ahead of potatoes.

Variety of taste

Potatoes, unsurpassed in taste and useful qualities, have taken an honorable place on our table.

It is unlikely that you will find a product that is universal in preparation in all respects. After all, potatoes are not only boiled and fried. It is steamed, stewed, baked, stuffed, and even fried in sugar in Denmark. Moreover, after such a procedure, the Danes salt it right on the plate!

Such a variety in cooking cannot but affect the taste. But experienced chefs know how important the variety, type and age of the root crop are. Young potatoes are not worth making soup, and you cannot make fries from every variety. By the way, Belgians are French fries masters. No wonder Belgium is considered the country of chocolate, waffles, beer and French fries. Well, not a very healthy food, but a very favorite one! Moreover, the system of their gastronomic coordinates includes potatoes with mussels - a famous dish of Michelin restaurants!

At first glance, seemingly simple puree is the favorite dish of eminent Haute couture chefs. It is in the preparation of mashed potatoes that the haute cuisine pros prefer to demonstrate their skills. And not every variety is suitable for this. We need a special root vegetable - boiled, with a small content of tissue fiber and a high percentage of starch. These are Dutch, crane, blue-eyed and black grouse. The latter is famous for the fact that Ukrainian breeders managed to preserve a unique potato variety, which was considered the best in the USSR.

Helpful hints:

  • The cutting to which the product is subjected greatly affects the taste of the dish. Boiling and baking in a uniform is considered useful, since potassium and zinc are contained in the “clothes” of potatoes. It contains enzymes that help the body absorb the necessary minerals and useful starch.
  • Starch and potatoes are two inseparable concepts. And the degree of this polysaccharide content is an indicator of the quality of the root crop. The more starch, the tastier and more crumbly the variety. That is why it is considered an axiom of the cook to avoid soaking the cut product in water, so as not to wash out the starch. To prevent the potatoes from hardening, dishes from them should only be served hot.
  • Potatoes do not like acidic environments. In combination with acidic foods, it hardens and delays cooking. This must be taken into account when preparing sour cabbage soup, sorrel soups. That is - first the potatoes, and then the “sour ingredients”.

Potato development phases

To learn more about fertilizer, you should understand the phases of its development:

  1. The first shoots appear in 15-25 days. At this stage, there is no need to apply fertilizers, because the potatoes are actively developing and sprouts are blooming. Stocks of the mother tuber are used.
  2. After 25 days, the foliage begins to grow. This period is followed by a budding phase, and the formation of the first tubers also begins. As a rule, 2-3 dozen are formed, over time their number decreases from 5 to 15 pieces.
  3. After 28 days, the first flowers appear on the potato. Some tubers can reach the size of a hen's egg. Many summer residents begin to harvest young potatoes. During this period, almost 70% of the crop is formed.
  4. After 40-65 days, the process of tuber growth begins. Fruits grow in size and nutrients accumulate in them.
  5. After 90 days, the foliage begins to die off. All tuberization processes are completed, and the potatoes are preparing for rest.

The first feeding is needed at the beginning of June, when the active growth of the tops begins. During this period, plants need nitrogen. Experienced summer residents recommend using:

  • ammonium nitrate
  • mullein
  • infusion of chicken droppings.

Fertilization can be combined with the first hilling, this will greatly simplify the process.

The second feeding is carried out in the budding phase. The best fertilization options are:

These fertilizers help to increase the phosphorus content, respectively, the number of tubers increases.

The third period is characterized by a flowering phase. It is better to give preference to potash fertilizers. Potassium carbonate is best suited for these purposes. It is also possible to use an ash solution or an ash extract.


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Watch the video: Perfectly Roasted Potatoes at Home With. Without Oven