St. John’s Wort Control: Learn How To Control St. John’s Wort

St. John’s Wort Control: Learn How To Control St. John’s Wort

By: Becca Badgett, Co-author of How to Grow an EMERGENCY Garden

You may know about St. John’s wort for medicinal purposes such as the relief of anxiety and sleeplessness. When you find it spreading throughout your landscape, however, your main concern will be getting rid of St. John’s wort plants. Information on St. John’s wort says it’s a noxious weed in some areas.

Learning how to control St. John’s wort is a long and tedious process, but may be accomplished through significant effort. When you begin getting rid of St. John’s wort, you’ll want to continue until the weed is completely under control.

About St. John’s Wort

St. John’s Wort weed (Hypericum perforatum), also called goatweed or Klamath weed, like many invasive plants of today was introduced as an ornamental in centuries past. It escaped cultivation in the United States and is now listed as a noxious weed in several states.

Native plants in many ranchlands are forced out by this weed that can be deadly to grazing cattle. Learning how to control St. John’s wort is necessary for ranchers, commercial growers and home gardeners as well.

How to Control St. John’s wort control begins with evaluation of how widespread the weed has become in your landscape or field. Small infestations can be handled manually by digging or pulling St. John’s wort weed. Effective St John’s wort control with this method comes from removing all the roots and getting rid of St. John’s wort before it produces seeds.It may take weeks or even months of pulling or digging to get rid of St. John’s wort. Burn the weeds after pulling. Don’t burn off the area where St. Johns wort weed is growing though, as this encourages it to spread. Mowing may be a somewhat effective method too, according to info on St. John’s wort control.For larger areas where manual control is not feasible, you may need to bring in chemicals for St. John’s wort control, such as 2,4-D mixed at 2 quarts per acre.Insects such as the flea beetle have been successful in getting rid of St. John’s wort in some areas. If you have a substantial problem with this weed on a bigger acreage, talk to your county extension service to learn if insects have been used in your area to discourage the weed.An important part of control includes learning to recognize the weed and scouting your property on a regular basis to see if it is growing.This article was last updated onRead more about St. John's Wort Drawing Salve | All Natural | Organic

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Материалы: Comfrey, Saint Johns Wort, Activated Charcoal, Bentonite Clay, Lavender Essential Oil, Rosemary Essential Oil, Clove Bud Essential Oil, Beeswax, Castor Oil

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Herbal black drawing salve is the perfect solution for anything that gets under your skin! Literally.

At one time or another, we've found ourselves with splinters, thorns, boils, stings, and bites. Black salve will draw out infections and remove those nagging things we get under our skin.

This salve includes Calendula infused oil (for wound healing), Saint John's Wort (to ease pain), Castor Oil (excellent for getting rid of bacteria), Bentonite Clay (drawing action), Activated Charcoal (detoxifies and draws out impurities) Rosemary Essential Oil (antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory) Lavender Essential Oil, (skin benefits), Clove Bud Essential Oil (ease pain)

Hand crafted with all natural and ethically sourced items in small batches. Calendula and Saint John's Wort organically grown in my gardens.

Annual, Perennial, or Biennial?

Now before growing your medicinal plants, it’s good to know whether they are annual, perennial, or biennial.

Why does this matter? Well because some plants will require planting every year and others will not!

Annual – This means that the plant will need to be planted every year.

Biennial – The plant will need to be replanted every two years.

Perennial – The plant will continue to grow every year.

(This page may contain affiliate links you can read the full disclosure here)

So now that’s covered let’s move on to 8 medicinal plants to start off your physic garden.

Killing Creeping Charlie With Chemicals

If your patch of creeping Charlie is too large to hand-pull, using an herbicide or a weed-control product might be your only option. You can opt for a method that effectively kills everything in the area, though that means you'll have to restart your lawn from scratch. Or you can selectively spray the creeping Charlie with a lawn-friendly product, following the manufacturer's directions. The best time to spray creeping Charlie is in the fall after the first frost. Select a day when there will be little wind, and make sure it won't rain or snow within 24 hours of application.

Mix Herbicide with Water

Place the herbicide into a pump sprayer, and mix it with water per the manufacturer's instructions. Be precise. Too much product can harm your soil, and too little might not kill the weed. Use protective eyewear and gloves when handling the chemicals.


Spray the herbicide onto the creeping Charlie, concentrating on the leaves and stems and allowing the solution to soak down to the roots. Be careful of overspray, so you don't hit any nearby foliage you want to keep.

Leave the Area Alone

Leave the treated area for winter. Then, in the spring rake up any leftover weed debris. Till and amend the soil with a nitrogen-fixing natural fertilizer. Then, replant or reseed your lawn.

7. Chinese Wisteria

Source: Wikimedia Commons By 3268zauber [CC BY-SA 3.0 (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0)]

Beware: Wisteria has a powerful root system. So powerful in fact that it can send shoots popping up a long distance away from the plant itself. As a result, it pretty much smothers everything in its path. The good news is that it can be kept under control with regular pruning and thinning.

-Wisteria can live for a very long time — hundreds of years, to be exact.
-There’s an American variety, too, but the Chinese wisteria is considered far more invasive, particularly in USDA hardiness zone 4. Zone 4 consists of Montana, Wyoming, North Dakota, South Dakota, Minnesota, Wisconsin, and Eastern states such as Northern New York, New Hampshire, and Maine.

Specialty Types of Pruning


Espalier (pronounced “es-PAL-er”) is a French term used to describe a plant trained to grow along a flat plane, such as a wall or fence. The Romans originated the pruning technique and the Europeans refined it into an art form still popular today. In England, fruit trees are often espaliered along walls to save space. A wall with southern exposure helps protect the espaliered fruit from cold injury.

In the typical American landscape, espaliers are often used to add interest to a bare wall. Other times they accent a trellis or fence or add accent in confined areas where spreading trees and shrubs are not practical.

Almost any plant can be espaliered. Look for plants having flexible branches, good pest tolerance and attractive foliage, flowers or fruit. The type of pattern you want to achieve, formal or informal, will influence your choice of plants. A slow-growing espalier may be best if you do not like to clip and prune regularly. Pyracantha is the most commonly espaliered ornamental plant. Others include Bradford pear, southern magnolia, foster holly, ligustrum, crape myrtle, loquat, creeping fig and wisteria.

Figure 14. Some common formal espalier patterns are Tiered or Horizontal T (a), Palmette Verrier (b), Belgian Fence (c), and Oblique Palmette (d).

Formal espaliers can be simple or quite complex. Figure 14 shows some common espalier patterns. Informal patterns are free-form and require less care than formal patterns. An informal espalier may be simply a vine climbing along a wall. Informal espaliers usually require no structural support.

Framework for formal espaliers is the form on which the espalier is trained to grow. It may be constructed from rot-resistant wood such as cypress, cedar or redwood, or from wire or nylon cord. Avoid cotton rope because it decays rapidly. When attaching the framework to a wooden wall, use blocks of wood as spacers to keep the framework 6 to 8 inches from the wall. This will provide good air circulation around the plant and prevent the plants from staining the wall.

Attach the framework to a masonry wall with special anchoring devices. Your local hardware supplier should carry masonry staples or concrete nails for this purpose. Lead expansion shields or plastic rawl plugs can be placed in the mortared joints between bricks.

Some garden centers sell vine ties (small plastic discs with twist-ties embedded in them for holding branches) that attach to masonry or wooden walls. They are not as permanent and as strong as framework anchored into the wall, however.

Formal espaliers require regular pruning and training to maintain their shape. Prune branches that grow outward away from the intended pattern. Tie branches to the support to keep them in place. Be careful to prune flowering ornamentals according to the proper line.


Topiary is another form of plant sculpture that originated with the Romans and became popular in European formal gardens. A topiary is a plant that has been pruned to an unnatural form, such as a geometric shape or a whimsical animal. Some topiaries, called “stuffed” or “mock” topiaries, are vines trained to grow on the outside of wire frames. Other topiaries, such as the life-like characters you see at Walt Disney amusement parks, are plants trained to grow within a wire frame.

Plants often shaped into topiaries are boxwood, Japanese holly, yaupon holly, ligustrum, arborvitae, juniper, yew and podocarpus.

Topiaries, like formal espaliers, require frequent pruning to maintain their shape. Their use should be limited in landscapes to areas where a focal point, accent plant or conversation piece are desired.

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