Balsamic video: growing from seed in the garden
About plants Published: May 25, 2012 Reprinted: Last edits:
How many times have we heard that balsam is demanding and even capricious, that taking care of it is incredibly troublesome. No wonder that his middle name is “touchy”. And, having heard such unflattering opinions, they did not dare to plant this delicate and very beautiful flower in their home or garden.
However, there will always be people who are not afraid to take on the most thankless and sometimes hopeless work in order to destroy another myth. We offer you an article by a florist about the personal experience of growing balsam. We hope that after this article, your opinion about the plant will change, and you will enthusiastically start growing balsam on your site.
Video about growing balsam
Today we will talk in detail about the process of growing balsam. I start growing balsam by sowing seeds. Now is the most suitable time for this - the beginning of March. I will need a container with a loose and light potting mix that needs to be carefully moistened with a spray bottle. After that, I evenly distribute the balsam seeds over the surface of the substrate and again lightly spray the surface of the soil with water. The container with crops must be placed in a transparent plastic bag and placed in a warm and well-lit place.
After 15 days from the moment of sowing the balsam seeds, uneven shoots appeared: real leaves are already beginning to appear on some seedlings, and some literally have just appeared. This, of course, is not very encouraging, but let's not despair: within the next two weeks, you can still wait for the emergence of seedlings.
Caring for balsam seedlings
Seedling keeping conditions
Balsam seedlings need bright lighting for development. If there is not enough natural light, artificial lighting can be used. The soil in the container with seedlings should never dry out. And try to set and maintain the optimum temperature between 16-18 ⁰C.
As soon as the first two true leaves develop on the seedlings, you can start picking the balsam. Another week has passed, but the uneven development of seedlings is still noticeable: some are more developed, they already have a second pair of true leaves, and some even have a third leaf, and some of the seedlings are just hatching.
I am going to plant the more advanced seedlings in separate cassettes that I have prepared in advance. Beforehand, I will water the container with the seedlings so that they separate well and do not get injured during transplantation. While the water is absorbing, I will pour the substrate in cassettes. I note that, unlike the container in which we originally sowed balsam, there are drainage holes in the bottom of each cassette so that excess liquid after watering flows freely into the pan and does not stagnate in the roots of the seedlings.
With a regular spoon, I pry the plants and carefully separate them from each other, trying not to injure the roots. Do not worry, there is nothing wrong with picking, this process stimulates the root system of plants to form additional roots. With the handle of a spoon, I make a depression in the substrate of the cassette, put the root system of the seedling in it, deepen the seedling to the cotyledon leaves, lightly squeeze the soil around the stem and slightly spray the seedling with water. I do the same operation with all the other developed seedlings.
Caring for balsam seedlings after picking
Further care of the seedlings consists in regular watering in order to keep the substrate in the cassettes in a slightly damp state at all times. Growing seedlings need a long daylight hours, at least 12 hours, so you will have to install additional artificial lighting. The temperature for seedlings should be between 18-20 ⁰C.
Two weeks later from the moment the balsam was picked into separate cassettes, the seedlings are developing well, they already have lateral shoots, the plants do not stretch, which means that they have enough light and nutrition. If the balsams have too elongated male nodes, try to find out the cause of this phenomenon and eliminate it. Sometimes this happens due to the fact that you have planted seedlings in the soil from your garden, and it may lack the substances necessary for the plants. In this case, you need to add a small amount of fertilizers to the substrate - mineral or humus.
I found that the soil in the cups of individual seedlings had settled a lot, and I decided to pour some soil into them, so that, firstly, it did not dry out so quickly, and secondly, so that these seedlings had enough nutrients. I will not additionally feed the plants: they look good.
Seedlings of balsam in a greenhouse
Another three weeks passed. Today the balsams are in the greenhouse and are doing very well. Plants are powerful, strong, they have many side shoots, which means that they are satisfied with the care and conditions of maintenance. In some cassettes, the seedlings have grown so much that they no longer have enough soil: roots are visible on the surface. I'm going to add some soil to these cups now.
It is still too early to plant balsam in open ground, but it should be fed, since there is no food left in the substrate. Top dressing will help him develop further. As a fertilizer, I use liquid biohumus Gumistar, diluted in accordance with the instructions.
Transplanting balsam into open ground
Another 10 days passed. The balsam has grown and got stronger, today is May 7, warm weather has set in the garden and it's time to plant seedlings in the open ground. I will plant some of the plants in a flower bed, and some in a pots.
In the soil on the flower bed, I made a small depression, but since there is sod soil in my flower garden, to increase the nutritional value of the soil, I will put some vermicompost at the bottom of the hole. Then I spill the hole with water, remove the seedling from the cassette, place its well-developed root system in the hole, sprinkle the roots with soil and lightly press down the surface around the plant stem. Then I will add sawdust mulch, which covers the ground in the flower garden, under the stem. Under the mulch, the soil will not dry out too quickly, and the roots will not be washed out by water during irrigation. Mulch will provide not only good moisture exchange, but also air access to the balsam roots. I will plant the rest of the plants in the same way.
Caring for balsam in the garden
Today is July 1, and I planted the balsam in the flower garden in early May and, unfortunately, did it early: the weather presented us with many unpleasant surprises. There were frosts, the balsam suffered from them, and only now it more or less began to come to life and finally bloomed. Now he feels great in partial shade next to the daylily and nasturtiums. I planted it in a good place: its greens are juicy, green, the flowers are very bright and beautiful.
We have established dry and hot weather, and I have to maintain the soil moisture necessary for the moisture-loving balsam. I water the flower garden in the morning and in the evening by sprinkling so that the water falls on the leaves and flowers: balsam loves a shower very much.
Sod soil always requires fertilizers, so I apply them in small quantities. If you have nutritious soil on your site, then you do not need to feed the balsam: it is unpretentious in this respect, as well as to the growing conditions. This is a wonderful plant for those who have little time to care for flowers.
Another two weeks passed. The weather is hot and dry, my balsam is covered with magnificent large flowers. Its leaves and stems are powerful, juicy, green, and it feels great in the shade. It is now about 7 am, here we have just the sun, but soon it will disappear. Balsam is a wonderful and unpretentious plant that can be planted under trees or under tall plants. It is suitable for flower beds that we have to place in shady areas of the site, and the only thing that is required of you is regular watering of balsam.
As for weeding, then by applying mulching the surface, you exclude the appearance of any weeds on it. You also don't have to loosen the topsoil after watering. Mulch copes with its task perfectly: balsam grows and develops well, and we can only rejoice and admire its bright flowering.
It is now the end of July, and at this moment the balsam has gained full strength, it blooms profusely and feels great. He no longer needs any care, except watering, and I hope that the weather will not bring any surprises, and the balsam will bloom just as profusely until the frost.
If you want to leave balsam at home for the winter, then in the fall, cut cuttings from it, root them and grow them in a pot, as the seedlings were grown. Balsam can grow both in the garden and at home, in an ordinary planter.
Let's take a look at a balsam planted in a planter and growing on the sunnier side of the site. The plant feels great, grows well, its greens are juicy, bright, flowers are large, and there are many of them. Here I have two varieties planted: with red and pink flowers, but both plants look great. There is a lot of sun in this place, it appears from noon and shines until sunset. When the sun was very active, the balsam suffered a little: in direct sunlight, the plant can burn out. Therefore, while the seedlings are still not powerful enough, it is better to grow them in partial shade or protect from direct sun. Actually, sun is enough for balsam literally two to three hours a day, no more.
I also water the balsam in the flowerpot abundantly and spray it with water in the morning and evening.
Balsam in the shade
I want to show you one more balsam of the kind that was planted in a flowerpot with red balsam. It grew literally in the shade, under cover of lilacs and ferns, in the darkest corner. I didn’t even hope for such a wonderful result, but the balsam blooms here with very large rose flowers of interesting colors. This once again confirms my thesis that balsam can be grown literally in the shade, in the truest sense of the word.
I did not feed him any fertilizers, and the only maintenance procedure was regular watering. Therefore, do not believe the stories that balsam is a capricious plant that requires weekly feeding. My experience refutes these claims. Everyone can grow balsam, and you will not have any special hassle in caring for this plant. This beautiful and unpretentious plant will be able to decorate with its abundant and bright flowering even the most shady corners of the site.
- Read the topic on Wikipedia
- Features and other plants of the Balsamic family
- List of all species on The Plant List
- More information on World Flora Online
- Indoor Plants Information
Sections: Houseplants Beautiful flowering Plants on B Video Balsamic
Dusheney Indian edible: description, growing from seeds, medicinal properties: Instructions + Photo and Video
Dusheney (Potentilla) Indian - an ornamental and medicinal plant. It also has other names: false or Indian strawberry, pseudo-earthy, fragaria and duusheniya. The appearance resembles a common strawberry variety.
It has three-component green leaves, a mustache, small red berries, but the taste is significantly inferior to strawberries. It grows in the garden, in hedges, as well as in a pot on the balcony as an ornamental plant. It is impossible for an inexperienced gardener to distinguish it from ordinary strawberries. How to plant, grow and care for duchenee outdoors?
The answers to these questions are in this article.
↑ Plant description
The family consists of annual, biennial and perennial species. Forest mallow is widespread. It differs in the shape of the leaves, the height of the trunk, the color of the petals. The breeders took the forest mallow as a basis. And they bred more than 60 varieties and hybrids.
Main characteristics of mallow:
- Height: from 100 to 200 cm.There are species up to 300 cm.
- Flowers in the form of a blossoming bell. The flowering arrows are located in the brushes, on which many flowers are tied. There are simple and terry varieties. Terry varieties are more often represented by hybrids. The length of the petals is from 3 to 14 cm.
- The color of the flower depends on the variety and type: from white to dark purple.
- The shape of the seven-lobed leaves resembles a heart. They are large and grow on a long petiole.
- The branchy root goes deep into the ground.
- Flowering is always abundant, about two months. Varieties have been bred that bloom from May until the onset of the first frost.
- Each fruit contains many seeds. When stored properly, they remain viable for up to three years.
- The culture is resistant to short-term frost and drought. Among pests, mallow is "afraid" of slugs. It has good immunity to other pests and diseases.
How to plant thuja seeds at home
In order for the plants to develop and grow well in the future, it is important to plant thuja seeds correctly.
There are a number of rules, observing which, you can greatly facilitate the process of planting thuja from seeds and further care for it.
When to plant thuja seeds
At home, sowing thuja seeds is best done in the fall. In this case, collected with their own hands, they will still be fresh, with a high percentage of germination. Hibernating in the ground outdoors, the seeds will undergo natural hardening, which will have a positive effect on the germination of seedlings. When sowing seed in the fall, seedlings, as a rule, appear earlier than when planting thuja with seeds in spring, and young plants are more adapted to cold weather and require less care.
Selection of containers and soil preparation
At home, thuja seeds can be planted in boxes or immediately on the garden bed. Growing in shallow boxes greatly simplifies the farming technique behind the seedlings, since, as needed, they can be rearranged to any convenient place.
The best option for thuja seedlings is containers, the height of which does not exceed 10 - 12 cm.In too deep containers, the soil located in the lower layer may begin to acidify, however, you should not choose too low containers: in them the roots of neighboring plants will intertwine with each other , thus suppressing the development of each other. It will be impossible to dive them without damage in the future. Cell containers are another more convenient option.
The soil for growing thuja must be very nutritious. Ready-made coniferous substrate sold in garden stores is ideal. To prepare a nutritious potting mix at home, it is recommended to mix:
- 2 parts sand
- 1 part turf land
- 1 part peat.
Seed preparation for sowing
If thuja seeds are planned to be planted in the fall, during the winter they naturally stratify in the soil; they do not need to be additionally hardened. When planting thuja seeds in the spring, it is recommended to pre-stratify them. For this procedure at home, the seeds must be placed in a container with wet sand and left in the refrigerator for 3-4 months. The bottom vegetable rack is ideal.
Thuja seeds can be hardened at home and using another method:
- place the seed in a linen bag
- for the winter, bury the bag in the ground to a depth of at least 30 cm
- sprinkle with fallen leaves on top.
Immediately before sowing, you will need to perform one more procedure - seed germination. To do this, they are soaked in warm water overnight. By the next morning, the material will swell and be ready for planting.
How to plant thuja seeds at home
After stratification and germination of thuja seeds, you can start sowing them, for this you need:
- Place on the bottom of the box a drainage layer 2-3 cm thick, consisting of expanded clay or fine gravel.
- Pour some of the nutritious soil on top so that 2 - 3 cm to the edges of the box remain free. Level and slightly compact the soil.
- To disinfect the soil, it is recommended to spill it with a solution of potassium permanganate, which has a dark pink color.
- Form shallow grooves (up to 5 - 6 mm) at a distance of about 5 cm from each other.
- Sow the thuja seeds into the furrows, trying to distribute them evenly. Do not place seeds too close to each other.
- Sprinkle the crops with a layer of nutritious soil mixture no more than 1 cm thick.
- Slightly compact the surface with a plank or hands. Moisten with water from a spray bottle.
The first shoots will appear after about 20 - 25 days. After their appearance, the cover from the film can be removed.
How to plant thuja seeds directly in open ground
When planting thuja seeds directly into open ground, it is important to take into account that the comfortable soil temperature for their germination is about 10 - 15 degrees Celsius. If the temperature is lower, seedlings may not appear.
Sowing seeds in open ground is best done in autumn, then seedlings will appear much earlier in spring, and young plants will be more viable and resistant to low temperatures.
Sowing seeds in open ground is done according to the same principle as sowing in boxes. You should not bury the seeds in the soil more than 5 cm.It is most convenient to first grow thuja seedlings on one bed, and only then plant them in separate areas.
Ahimenez is not at all difficult to care for. Follow these simple rules and he will delight you with his beauty every day.
The plant prefers bright, but diffused light. Shading is required from direct sunlight, especially if it is on a south window, where the bright sun can cause burns on the leaves.
Favorable temperature for achimenes is 22-24 degrees. He is thermophilic, at 20 degrees he is already cold. Therefore, if you want to grow it in flowerpots on the street or on an open balcony, remember that when it gets cold it must be brought inside the room.
During the period of active growth and a set of buds, the plant needs regular moderate watering. Ahimenez will not stand both drought, the buds wither from it, and overflow, from which decay of the roots can begin. Look for a middle ground.
Spraying will also be unnecessary, the flower does not like it, it leaves spots on the leaves. But high humidity is necessary for this tropical plant, so we recommend humidifying the air in the room or placing the pot in a tray with wet expanded clay.
Actively growing achimenes needs regular feeding once every one to two weeks. Use complex fertilizers for indoor plants. Pay special attention to fertilizers that contain nitrogen, which is beneficial for growth.
Ahimenes is a flower with a pronounced dormant period. After vigorous flowering, the ground part of the plant dries up. While this process continues, the plant prepares for hibernation by forming rhizomes.
During this period, watering is reduced and feeding stops. The stems are not cut until they dry out so that they can transfer all the nutrients to the root.
All about growing fruits and vegetables
Organic fertilizers - a timeless classic
Your own cucumbers - how to grow and use them for maximum benefit?
It is impossible to live in the countryside and not grow any fruit crops on your site. Even if there is only one hundred square meters of land near your house, sooner or later you will plant an apple or cherry tree on it and, at least, organize a vertical garden bed. Because there is nothing tastier than home-grown fruits, vegetables, berries and even mushrooms. And, given the fact that it is becoming more and more difficult to buy really healthy fruits in a store or on the market (not processed excessively with chemistry) every day, then your own garden and vegetable garden is just a necessity. Our heading was created so that you can easily and with pleasure learn how to get results from your work in the garden and in the beds.
An experienced summer resident knows what a long way all the fruits that fall on his table from his own garden or vegetable garden go. How much work, how much attention is put into each cucumber or apple! And how much joy the tender greens bring, the first to hatch from under the snow in spring. How much pride you can feel when you grow the largest onion in the area! The materials of our section will help experienced summer residents and, especially, beginners, to understand all the intricacies of growing garden and vegetable garden crops. How to keep seedlings until spring? How to prepare good seedling soil? How to cover strawberries for the winter? The list of questions to which the materials of this section give answers has long exceeded a thousand. And our authors work every day to replenish them. If you have your own orchard and vegetable garden, and, moreover, if you are only planning them, visit us more often, and growing your own vegetables, fruits, berries, herbs and mushrooms will turn into a favorite hobby. You can share your achievements on this front in the relevant topics of the Botanichki Forum.
How to sow strawberries for seedlings
Delicate tiny strawberry seeds cannot be sown in ordinary soil taken from the ridges, and not every container will suit them. Therefore, you need to prepare for planting strawberries for seedlings.
You will need transparent containers (they will allow you to monitor the degree of soil moisture throughout its entire thickness) and a soil mixture consisting of 2 parts of sod land, 1 part of sand and 1 part of low-lying peat. However, with the substrate, you can not be too smart and buy ready-made, for example, for violets or begonias.
Strawberries do not tolerate picking well, so if the size of the window sill or the seedling rack allows it, it is advisable to immediately sow the seeds in separate containers, for example, plastic cups.
Not sure when to sow strawberries for seedlings? You can focus on the dates indicated on the seed bag, or you can sow in late February - early March.
Some gardeners lay a paper napkin on the ground and spray crops through it before the entrances appear.
Sowing strawberry seeds itself is within the power of everyone and takes no more than half an hour. It is enough to spill the soil with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, after drying, pour it into containers, spread strawberry seeds on top with tweezers and spray with warm water from a spray bottle. The distance between the seeds should be left about 2 cm, and the container itself should be covered from above with a film or a transparent lid.
From the first days, strawberry seedlings need a long (at least 10 hours) daylight hours and an air temperature of 18-20 ° С
Do not forget about daily supplementary lighting of seedlings with special phytolamps. Otherwise, the plants will be very elongated, pale and weak.
Rose seedlings care
For proper development, plants are provided with 10 hours of daylight. In winter, this is done with the help of additional lighting: the seedlings are kept under a phytolamp every day for at least 10 hours in a row.
2-3 weeks after the emergence of seedlings, the seedlings are fed with Fertika or any liquid humic fertilizer. At the same time, the rate of dressing for roses specified in the instructions is reduced by 2 times, because the plants are still very weak.
When several true leaves are formed on the sprout, the seedlings gradually begin to accustom themselves to a lower air temperature. For 2-3 weeks, in good weather, they are taken outside for a few minutes, then the time is gradually increased.
If the plants become crowded, they need to be transplanted into larger, separate pots. But keep in mind: containers should not be too large.
In the spring, with the onset of stably warm days (usually at the end of May), seedlings are planted in the garden. The first few days, the roses are shaded so that they better take root in a new place.
Many roses (e.g. cultivar Angel wings) bloom already 3 months after sowing. But it is better to pinch off the first buds so that the plant directs all its forces to the formation of the root system. And in this case, the next time more flowers will be tied.
Caring for roses grown from seeds is the same as for seedlings. They are watered, mulched and fed. For the winter they spud well and cover with several layers of dense spunbond. After all, young roses of even the most winter-hardy varieties cannot winter safely without shelter.
Have you already had the experience of growing roses from seeds at home? Share your achievements in the comments!