Read the previous part. ← How I created rose gardens in my garden
Basics of rose farming
In the spring, when there is a stable positive temperature, I take out the seedlings with already swollen buds from the winter quarters, spray them with Epin, a few days later - with Zdorovy Sad and Ekoberin preparations, leave them in a greenhouse and shade them, cover them with spunbond.
At the end of May or at the beginning of June (taking into account the weather), with a lump of earth, I plant them on a special bed with very good soil for growing until next spring.
The life and development of these small plants is completely in the hands of the grower. They need to be fed, watered, protected from diseases and pests, and also formed a crown, not allowed to bloom. By the fall, a well-ripened seedling is obtained, ready for transplantation next spring to a permanent place. But a young plant of a climbing rose can be immediately planted in the allotted place, but it is necessary to give it the same attention as on a distribution bed. I do it very well.
Many growers can say that fussing with cuttings is not worth the time spent, because you can buy a ready-made grafted rose in the store and immediately enjoy its flowering. And I do not agree with this statement. With what bated breath you approach a bush you have grown, say, the Cardinal variety, which intoxicates with its divine aroma and delights in the size of a flower up to 17 cm in diameter, and this is even more than stated in its description.
Or when a beautiful climbing rose of the Baikal variety surprises throughout the summer with its huge tassels, and even before the winter shelter in November they bloom, it’s even a pity to cut them off. This is another argument for the queen of flowers.
BUT growing roses from cuttings Is a fun activity. How can a garden owner who has bought a very expensive, modern rose and planted it with the help of a gardener experience the joy and happiness experienced by those who themselves gave birth to a small cuttings with three buds? And all the troubles, the time and effort spent are nothing in comparison with the results obtained.
Already in March, in a St. Petersburg apartment, you begin to feel anxiety: how the pets sheltered for the winter feel there. Unstable March weather warms up anxiety. This is what brought us to the Pskov village, to our garden, at the end of the first spring month, and there is still knee-deep snow, we couldn't even make a vent, because there was ice under the snow, the film froze. I had to wait.
I must say that this is a very crucial moment when growing roses - to open them in a timely manner. And for readers to understand my concern, I must tell you how harbor roses for the winter
To prevent diseases in November, I sprayed all the roses and the ground under the bushes with a 3% solution of ferrous sulfate. Gradually began to remove foliage from climbing roses and bend them closer to the ground, while pinning them.
Hybrid tea and other groups of roses, according to their affiliation, cut off, removed the leaves on the shoots, carefully covered the cuts with garden pitch, and then spud the bushes. Since the previous year was characterized by damp weather, I did not have dry land. Therefore, I mixed the rotted loose manure with the earth and with this mixture I spud the roses, pouring under them in a bucket and more, depending on the size, under the bush.
The day before, my husband and I prepared spruce branches in the forest, laid it under climbing roses, I finally tied them, bent them down and secured them with arcs made by my husband. Then I covered all the mounds of earth with which I spud the bushes with large shavings (I have been using it for several years) and also covered it with spruce branches. I put an isolon on the spruce branches, on top - a film and fixed it all with several arcs, leaving openings from the ends of the shelter. In this form, she left her roses until spring. The air vents are then closed by the falling snow.
The reverse process is also important - the opening of roses in spring. It happens so spring goes that you do not have time to free the air vents, as you have to open all the plants. I remove the film and isolon, remove some spruce branches, but not all, so that the roses do not immediately fall under the open sky.
After a few days, I completely remove the spruce branches, collect the shavings for storage. Then I easily loosen the hillocks, sprinkle with fertilizer for roses, ash and embed them in the soil. After I'm getting started with pruning... I cut off hybrid tea roses, floribunda and park roses at once, covering the cuts with garden pitch. But I first untie the climbing roses, raise them a little above the spruce branches and remove all the obviously bad parts of the shoots. I prepare Bordeaux liquid and spray it with a 1% solution, and then I sprinkle it again so that the shoots do not dry out, become weathered and do not get sunburn.
Since I have a lot of roses, I have to do all this within a few days. You work and rejoice: I was in time, I was not late, my roses are all alive, they are green, the buds are good, which means that soon all of us will enjoy the joy of contemplating their magnificent beauty and aroma. In anticipation of this exciting event, every day in the morning you go to your favorites, meticulously peering at all the changes that have occurred during the day.
And then the most pleasant chores begin. When it finally gets warmer, the roses need to be undone, watered, mulched with a thin layer of rotted manure so that moisture evaporates less. As the shoots grow, I pinch them after the fourth true leaf to form a beautiful, lush bush and abundant flowering. Until the end of July, I feed the roses several times, alternating organic and mineral fertilizers.
Before watering around the bushes, I sprinkle the ground with ash. To fight diseases during the summer season, I use phyto- and biological products. Weekly I spray with a solution of the “Healthy Garden” and “Ekoberin” preparations with the addition of “Gumistar” for roses. Sometimes a certain number of aphids appear at the ends of the shoots. I take it off with my hands, wash it off with a water shower, apply fitoverm. In my rose gardens, I do not allow weeds to grow, I mercilessly remove them. I raise climbing roses, cut off the side shoots by 1/3, tie them to the supports. Further - everything is in the same order as with other groups of roses.
Blooming roses is always a bewitching sight, filling the soul of the grower with joy, the happiness of contemplation. In the morning, when the dew has not yet dried on the buds, petals and leaves, when these droplets shine in the sun like diamonds, I never remember how much work and soul I put into seeing this picture. In the afternoon, opening up, the flowers increase, transform, hiding the aroma, and in the evening - new changes.
When the first wave of flowering passes, I cut the roses either to the first true leaf, or with two true leaves, and feed the plants. And soon they again delight with the splendor of flowering.
There is a third wave of flowering, but here I do not cut the flowers, but I cut off the petals so as not to cause unnecessary growth of shoots that will not ripen by winter. For bouquets, I never cut roses, much longer they can be admired in rosaries - lively, juicy. I often see people in my garden who come to see my flowers, I never mind this.
There are not only roses in my garden, but also clematis, peonies, lilies, tulips, daffodils, hazel grouse - imperial and chess, chrysanthemums, phloxes, geyher, hosts, daylilies, conifers.
I really wanted to create continuous flowering garden... Many of my pets were grown from cuttings, many were bought very small, so that I had the opportunity to observe all their periods of development and growth.
And I also believe that it is small plants that take root better and faster and more easily adapt to the microclimate of my garden, get used to and get along with neighboring plants, not competition is established between them, but harmony. Roses do not like competition, so I do not add many other annuals to them, but only frame them with cineraria with silvery foliage, which creates a certain splendor.
Sometimes in the literature there are recommendations to plant clematis next to the rose, choose the color scheme and their simultaneous flowering, so that the clematis shoots are located between the shoots of the roses. I agree that in the photograph it is very beautiful, but in practice you encounter problems. Try picking clematis shoots in the fall, when they are brittle, from 3-4 meter thorny rose shoots. This is the first difficulty.
The second is that clematis in relation to the rose is a competitor, even an aggressor. Its root system is more powerful, stronger, and it oppresses the rose. This neighborhood is permissible only at a distance. The third difficulty is that in the spring we water the clematis with milk of lime, but this does not suit the rose. The alkaline environment will, albeit insignificantly, still oppress the rose. Still, I feel sorry for the queen.
I believe that all gardeners should grow these wonderful plants in their gardens. They are not as capricious as it is commonly believed. Grow them with your own hands, investing love and care in this business, and they will thank you with their beauty, aroma, splendor of flowering, and give you joy. These thorny roses will soften your character and develop the most delicate feelings in your soul.
Galina Arkhipova, gardener,
village Polichno, Gdovskiy district, Pskov region
A large amount of time during cuttings propagation is spent to prepare and organize everything. You can determine whether the shoot is ripe for reproduction by its appearance:
The twigs should be woody, or partially woody and green.
It is worth paying attention to the thorns if they break off easily - the shoots are mature, when effort is made - they are not yet ready.
Cuttings are prepared at will, in early spring or fall. The procedure is carried out after the buds have set and before flowering ends. Cutting prematurely will cause the shoot to give vitality to the buds and prevent rooting. That is why only woody branches are selected, the thickness of which should be about 5 millimeters. The unripe tops are cut off.
Some growers prepare planting material in the summer, placing flowers in separate boxes. After the formation of callus, the cuttings are taken out, tied together, and placed in moistened sand. All this is placed in a cool place, previously covered with cellophane. The optimum storage temperature is 1-2 ° C below zero. In the spring, you can plant, while the plants remain strong and healthy.
When harvesting cuttings in the fall, the main task for the gardener is to store them correctly until spring, so that rooting is successful. To do this, you should follow simple rules:
- It is necessary to cut the cuttings early in the morning, during this period the stems are enriched with moisture.
- The branch should have at least 3 buds, not less, and its length is up to 15 cm. The upper cut is made a few cm above the nodule, and the lower one, clearly under it.
- For cutting cuttings, it is highly recommended to prepare a sharp object (sharpened knife, blade, scalpel). If the tissues of the stalk are damaged, putrefactive processes can begin.
- Cuts are not made at right angles, the correct angle is 45 degrees.
- Thorns and remaining leaves are carefully removed from the branch. At the very top, a few leaves are still left. In this case, the young plant will have better photosynthesis.
- Before planting, the cut, which will be immersed in the ground, is treated with growth stimulants. Recommended for use "Kornevin" or a light solution of potassium permanganate.
Growing a rose from a presented bouquet
Hello dear friends!
Rose is the most poetic and desirable flower. Ancient Indians cultivated it many millennia ago. And Christians considered this wonderful rich plant to be a companion of paradise. The presented bouquet of roses is always pleasant for women of any age. But, unfortunately, the cut rose pleases the eye for only a few days.
How to give a dying rose a "second life"? If you have a flower garden, try growing a rose from a donated bouquet, so that later, looking at a new bush, remember that significant day.
However, you should be aware that some varieties of roses are very difficult to root. These include the "Dutch beauties". For planting in the ground, domestic, polyanthus varieties are better suited. It is important that the roses stay in the vase for no more than five days. A fresher flower will germinate better. The stem of the flower must be cut into cuttings (7-14 cm) so that a pair of "buds-thorns" remains on each. Determine where the bottom of your brand new stem is. It is not difficult: the “spike buds” are always directed upwards. Remove the thorns. An ordinary garden pruner will help you with this. Use a sharp knife to cut the bottom of the stem crosswise (split it apart).
The split part must be treated with any mixture that stimulates root formation (Kornevin, Kornerost - indolylbutyric acid). These are phytohormones that enhance the flow of nutrients to the plant. Sprinkle the planting site with a layer of sand (3 cm). The soil should be saturated with humus. If all conditions are met, feel free to plant a stem. Take a five liter plastic bottle. Cut off the bottom. Cover the future rose bush, stick it tightly into the ground. Now your flower is protected from all kinds of weather troubles until summer.
When the first bud appears, remove the protective cap. Cut the bud. To grow a healthy and strong bush, you need to remove the buds over two years. You can be absolutely sure that after growing a rose from a donated bouquet, this "rose - queen" will not grow into a wild rose, will not become a "wild". This does not happen with the "beauties" of bouquets.
Another tip: take varieties of summer roses (June-July). They have 100 percent germination. Although, subject to all landing conditions, autumn and winter bouquets will also "come to life". It is better to plant such cuttings at home, in a warm place in special boxes, flowerpots.
Good luck hardworking rose growers! Breathe new life into each stem. And a charming rose in return will give you wonderful moments - fragrant, bright, beautiful! See you, friends!
Growing roses in pots
Greetings, dear friends!
It is generally accepted that roses are best grown outdoors. But what if you want to decorate with roses the places where it is impossible to plant plants? A good option - growing roses in pots or containers, which makes it possible to mobile placement of bushes in places chosen by the florist and bring your bold landscape ideas to life. With proper care, roses will surely delight you with abundant flowering, and will decorate any front garden, veranda, loggia, recreation area or garden structures.
To date, many varietal forms of miniature and hybrid roses for pot cultivation have been bred, which are characterized by small size, small foliage, voluminous buds with long and beautiful flowering. Some varieties of ground cover, hybrid tea varieties and climbing roses of compact varieties adapt well to the growing season in garden containers.
The formation and laying of future flower arrangements begins with the choice of a container for roses. The size of the container should be selected taking into account the varietal characteristics and the final growth of the adult plant. Adult rose bushes have a deep and powerful root system, so the garden pot should be at least half a meter in height and 60 cm in diameter.Accordingly, the larger the selected plant variety, the more voluminous the capacity must be in order for the culture to have enough space for the development of its life cycle.
With competent agricultural technology, roses grow with equal success in containers made of various materials: ceramics, concrete, wood, stone or plastic. When placing garden containers with flowering shrubs, it should be remembered that they love sunny and ventilated places - this will significantly reduce the likelihood of damage to flowering plants by pathogenic strains of fungi and parasitic microorganisms.
Spring is the best time to plant a rose. A flower grower should not place several plants in one "dish", because in a small space they will pull nutrients over themselves and dominate each other, which will affect the flowering and shape of the bushes. The soil substrate for a rose should be light, friable and saturated with mineral nutrition. It is advisable to purchase ready-made peat soil or independently mix garden soil with sand, chalk and wood ash for the selected seedlings. Expanded clay, pieces of bark or small brick breakage are well suited as drainage, which will prevent stagnation of excess moisture, silting, provide aeration and protect the root of the shrub from decay.
Carrying out pot growing of roses, twice a season it is necessary to feed the plant with a full complex of NPK fertilizers: the first time - at the stage of leaf blooming, and then - at the end of June.
Unlike open cultivation in flower beds, growing roses in pots outdoors has a small drawback - periodic control over plantings is required, associated with irrigation and natural irrigation by precipitation. In a small volume of an earthen pot coma, the roots dry out faster from the sun and, conversely, from overflow and precipitation, are more prone to fatal decay. Therefore, the water volume received by the bushes, the days of irrigation and the weather influence should be kept under control.