Adromischus montium-klinghardtii is a small, fibrous-rooted, clump-forming succulent with erect, rarely decumbent stems that grow up to 8 inches (20 cm) long. The leaves are obovate to orbicular, rarely elliptic, up to 1.4 inches (3.5 cm) long and up to 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide, grey-green to grayish-brown with flaking wax and without dark markings. The flowers are white or tinged pink and appear in mid-summer.
USDA hardiness zones 10a to 11b: from 30 °F (−1.1 °C) to 50 °F (+10 °C).
How to Grow and Care
Many species are easy to grow in any free-draining, gritty compost. Their compact habit allows a collection to be maintained in a small space, and they grow well on any sunny window ledge or the top shelf of the greenhouse. Water mostly from spring to fall and let them dry out between waterings. Adromischus tolerates cool, frost-free conditions during the winter if kept dry. It is as well to keep water off the foliage during the winter. Mealybugs and vine weevils can be discouraged with a systemic insecticide.
Adromischus can be propagated from a single leaf, which should be placed against the side of the pot so that the stem end is just touching the compost. Some species drop their leaves easily, and although each leaf will form a new plant, it can be a challenge to grow a large specimen. In other cases, leaves for propagation must be carefully detached with a sharp knife.
Learn more at How to Grow and Care for Adromischus.
Adromischus montium-klinghardtii is native to Namibia and South Africa.
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Adromischus montium-klinghardtii - garden
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Caring and Growing Adromischus
A popular little plant, preferably fit for pot culture SO has appeal amongst collectors and lover most are simple to grow however most of the beauties can really be challenging.
A lot of succulents’ lovers will have by now come across “The Plovers Egg Plant”. Adromischus cooperi appears great, the leaves have charming marks and is extremely differ from other succulents. They can be easily grown & propagated, and an excellent beginner’s plant.
To more recent succulent collector, this plant is perfectly unique and different from other succulents. My first likewise was Adromischus cooperi. After then, I met and was able to know Alec Salzer, a senior and longtime collector, unfortunately he had died now.
He had more than 40 different types and subspecies. I believe owing to a number of journeys to South Africa and returning with big pockets totally filled with various leaves and cuttings.
Till today, I can say no other collection had such a variety as Alec’s had in his three little confined glasshouses in a little yard in Camberwell.
Who knows maybe the collection of Alec’s Adromischus was passed down to someone? But now vanished into somebody’s collection & later lost to the public. Let me share a thought, which I believe is very important, with you.
If you have some uncommon types or a typical or fascinating version of unique plants, share it immediately with an individual who has the capability to grow and reproduce that unique plant.
People who wish to hide and become the only person with that unique something are a bit self-centered and short-sighted. With just one disaster, maybe a hot day in the polyhouse without any shade or maybe a flood or an even unfortunate rot to get your one & only treasure while you’re not looking.
I had an experience like this when a once in a 100-year flood 200 ml of rain in just about 20 hours saw me lose a poly home to water of about 50 cm, they were busy floating out the door. That day, I lost a couple of special plants and a big part of my entire crop.
Fortunately, 6 months after, I recovered many of the unique plants back thanks to a friend I had previously shared those plants with.
Adromischus are delightful succulents that have actually held my attention for a very long time due to the fact that they are extremely difficult to find. An expert collection of this plant with their numerous and leafy forms, colors, textures and spots are really gratifying when seen over a yearly cycle.
They are perfect source of wonders and beauties, in some cases difficult. Their sizes are ideal for pot culture, they do effectively in a well-lit glasshouse window sill where there is a lot of light.
How to grow Adromischus
Adromischus are really simple to propagate. As is common in the majority of the plant groups. Although, there are few exceptions, as nature has never been straightforward. They will quickly grow from leaf, though those excellent lookers and the rare ones are probably the slowest to develop just acquiring two or three brand-new leaves annually.
These can likewise be the fussiest to grow, as if we didn’t understand this, they will likely be the hardest to get the most costly, and hardest to develop. So, you can see a plant that might just grow a couple of leaves in a year can never ever be readily available, common, or very cheap. They are simply too difficult and too slow to reproduce.
I presently have roughly 30 trays of mother plants to gather my leaf cuttings from. So, it is quite a location of the glasshouse to take up and preserve.
Adromishus requires to be well-drained since they are not a fussy plant, garden compost or sand mix of about 30% to 50% then include course river sand about 3ml or pumice or scoria to open up your mix. The usage of peat moss and perlite will also do. The fat rooted or codex design of plants such as marianiae will favor 50% to 70% course product in the mix.
Adromischus can grow in all types of soil from shale to granite quartz and sandstone primarily on rock ledges or crevices under bushes or the shade of a rock.
Lighting and ventilation requirements for Adromischus
Excellent light is important to get vibrant and beautiful colors and spots to appear well, the silvery ones will be brighter silver and with good light. If Adromischus remain in a too shady area, they do appear to have a typical dull green appearance.
In my state here, the Adromischus are at the North facing with bright entryway where perfect ventilation is.
In the wild, many of them begin life inside a rock crevice where windblown seed might catch a hold. As the plants grow to be over these crevices many of them are seen sitting happy in the brilliant sun. Others remain in partial shade under little shrubs or trees or the shadow of rocks.
Some just exist on the south side of hills where they are not too much exposed having an afternoon partial shade (Southern hemisphere). You’ll need to find out the tolerances a little by putting them in various locations of your house.
When you have humid seasons such as Melbourne in winter season or Sydney in Summertime, additional ventilation at these times is a huge aid in decreasing prospective rots. I have actually set up fans in my homes and had really few losses since I did this.
I also realize that Adromischus start growing in the late winter season so provide water however keep it light do on brilliant warm days so the excess vaporizes off. A fan helps this.
Adromischus Watering Requirements.
Here, a little understanding of where they originate from helps, these plants grow over a huge variety from Southern Namibia to west cape South Africa then all the way to East Cape then North to Free State location.
This variety covers a number of environmental zones that have winter season rain and summer season dry to summertime rain and winter season dry.
Essentially, I have actually discovered very little water in winter season is finest with simply a couple of watering with the hose pipe over winter season. When Spring shows up increase and water a little much deeper.
What I feel is necessary is the plant should dry in between watering’s. Adromischus will inform you when they are feeling thirsty, because their leaves will begin to shrivel and then they will shed the shriveled leaves so as to survive.
Dried out plants or as we say “stressed” will start to display better colors than well, watered plants. So, put good light and with a little dryness, you can achieve the colors these plants were designed with in nature.
Towards completion of summer season start to reduce the watering a bit to permit the plants to shrink a bit and lose some of their older leaves over the Fall periods prior to when winter season sets in.
I have also discovered that if the leaves are filled with water, a few of those older leaves that might have shed over summer season keep their water into winter season sort of pass away off filled with water which can then start a rot in your plants.
Another technique to understand about wetting the plant is that when the flower buds begin to appear, this is usually the prime season when plants wish to grow & reproduce. This is primarily carried out in the optimal season. It’s a terrific indicator of when to water more.
Adromischus potting and repotting
It’s the little sluggish growing plants and can remain longer in their initial pots and soil mix for a number of years. This is when it can take numerous years before a plant reveals some character and shape, then you might need to move it up a size.
If it’s among the cordex types, a bigger pot is needed for some excellent root advancement. Whereas a few of the energetic smaller sized shrub types with a better fibrous root system might be repotted yearly into either the same pot or simply some fresh soil mix and a light trim.
These charming plants always make terrific Bonsai specimens in time getting an older weathered and knotted look, like aged desert specimens that has actually seen lots of tough summer seasons.
The best time to repot is when they begin their new Spring development and once again in Fall permitting them time to settle in prior to winter season. If you can be careful and not disturb the roots too much, potting can be done most of the year. Root damage throughout winter season can trigger rots after repotting, particularly the cordex types which appear to be a bit more picky.
If you want your plants to be compact with great color a good percentage of food is all that’s required with possibly a light yearly top-dress in Spring or a light liquid feed for older potted plants. This is especially so with the little and sluggish growing types.
Many of the energetic and much faster growing types can take as much feed and water as they like, just like other succulents. Few of my older plants that haven’t be fed or potted on for a couple of years start to look a bit thin of leaf and a bit branchy and wispy.
In our nursery we utilize a 6-month slow release fertilizer with micronutrients. A good amount of Dolomite lime and a small amount of a nitrogen fertilizer (soft slow release). We utilize this mix on all our succulents in the nursery in varying amounts to match our various groups of plants.
Let’s take for example, a 140mm pot would get up to a 1/4 of a teaspoon or less depending on the plant Smaller pots of course get less again, I feel sometimes as were making pots we almost seem to wave the fertilizer the fertilizer over the pots you can barely see it.
Nurseries are more likely to fertilize a bit much heavier than the house collector after all we need to produce a crop of succulent for the lots of succulent appreciates out there.
Adromischus Maculatus Features: An Overview
These plants belong to the Adromischus genus that contains about 30 species. They are divided into five sections based on their common relationships and characteristics, with A. Maculatus included in the Incisilobati.
They can be found growing in sunny locations of South Africa, such as the sandstone slopes of the Langeberg Mountains.
Calico Hearts plants are medium-sized and low-growing perennials that can reach about 14 inches (35 cm) in height and 8 inches (20 cm) in width.
They have thick, succulent, and spade-shaped leaves that grow from a tiny, prostrate, and wood-like stem. Their leaves form small clusters or mats.
Depending on the specimen, their foliage can have different colors. Some varieties exhibit plain green to grey leaves, while others may appear with purple to brown spots of different sizes.
Their stems are covered with thin aerial roots colored in red to brown. Once the bottom of the stem runs out of leaves, the roots seem very dense.
During their blooming season in summer, Calico Hearts plants produce small, white-pink, and tubular flowers on 9.8 to 11.8 inches (25-30 cm) branches. They are more likely to flower outdoors, as they rarely do it with average room conditions.
Calico Hearts plants make for a great companion to most species of cacti and other succulents thanks to their similar growing requirements.
Watch the video: Dr. Dietrich Klinghardt zum aktuellen Online Seminar 19:00 Uhr