Drainage device in a suburban area
How to arrange suburban life
Lord! How good! The site has been selected. And not that expensive. We paid for, and, most importantly, issued. Let's hope that all the hardest things are behind us. Now it remains to put the house and plant the bushes.
Where to put the house? Of course, you need to place it closer to the road (but not too close). And I don't want to put extra poles for electricity, and closer to the gas main. But in this place on the site there is a shallow swamp, and a cheerful hillock is at its farthest end. I was just about to place a house there when my wife said: “I don’t agree. I’ll do the beds here!”
It's not that hard to argue with your wife - it's dangerous. Therefore, we will tidy up the lowland. True, they say that you can't put a house in a low place, but let's try. All the same, after all, the general drainage will have to be done ...
It is necessary to separate from the neighboring area. In the spring, and even during a good rain, the water flows from it to us. And I don't want the whole future lawn to be washed away onto future paths. And here we understand that the problems are just beginning. One thing pleases - you have to solve them yourself - already without officials.
Of course, you can invite a firm. She will analyze the soil and choose a place for the house. They will calculate the drainages and make the zoning of the site. After all, someone else's eye always sees better. In addition, it is easier for them to bring together all our wishes. Zhenya has a vegetable garden. For me - a utility site (take care of the car, unload firewood). Mother-in-law is a greenhouse (Why? After all, tomatoes grow better in the store).
But back to drainage... They need to be done wherever they are needed. On light sandy and sandy loam soils, drainage is practically not needed. Paths are used as storm sewers. They themselves are profiled, and under them there is a layer of rubble 15-25 cm, so that the water rolls along the paths from the site into the ditch as if along a chute. And if there is no ditch, and there is nowhere to drain the water? Then you will have to make a prefabricated pond on the site. He will collect all the excess water. In addition, it will be possible to plant nymphs (water lilies) in the summer, start carps, and swim after the bath. One word is water paradise. If the site is located on clayey soils, and even with embankment zones, then you cannot do without a powerful drainage system.
Will have to pave prefabricated collector, and maybe not one. Who does not know - a prefabricated collector is a special ditch 60-80 cm deep, into which sand, granite crushed stone of different fractions, a drainage pipe and geotextile filters are placed according to a special scheme. To increase the drainage area, it is necessary to make adjoining trenches to the main collecting collector. They are also called drains. Moreover, the abutment of the drains to the main collector should be at an angle of 30-60 degrees. But how will the water flow through the drains? Do not put the pump on?
Of course not. Both the drains and the collecting manifold must be made with a slope. In side drains - 1-2 cm for each running meter. In the collecting collector - 2-5 cm per one running meter. What if the drainage depth suddenly exceeds 1.2-1.5 m? Then in this place you need to put a drainage well. It will reduce the depth of the system, become an additional filter, and also allow drains to join at other angles.
But what about the swamp where you need to put the house? You can dig a pit two meters wider than the foundation. Sprinkle it with sand or sand-gravel mixture to the desired height and leave before winter. Over the winter, this pie will settle down, and next year you can fill in a light strip foundation. If the house is solid and requires a deep foundation, then in addition to good waterproofing of reinforced concrete structures, you need to make a drainage perimeter around the house. For this, a drainage ditch is dug at a distance of 2-2.5 meters from the edge of the foundation, which is 0.5-1 meter deeper than the lowest point of the foundation. Drainage should be backfilled with different fractions of crushed granite. At the bottom - the largest, then - the middle, then - the small fraction. In the middle there is a drainage pipe. At the exit - a collecting well and discharge of excess water outside the territory.
In general, when constructing drainages, it is necessary to take into account the layering of drainage materials. The first layer on top is light fertile soil 10-15 cm. Next is a layer of geotextile (but by no means spunbond).
The second layer is river (sea) sand 10-15 cm.
The third layer is granite crushed stone of fraction 20-40 mm - the layer thickness is at least 30 cm. As a rule, a prefabricated drainage plastic pipe is placed in it, wrapped to protect it from silting with a layer of geotextile.
In non-critical areas working in summer, a pipe with a diameter of 65 mm can be used. But they mainly use a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm.
If the drainage has a depth of more than 80 cm, then it is better to make the lower layers from larger fractions of crushed granite. And on the drainage perimeter around the house, you can also use a granite boulder. The basic rule is that the deeper, the larger the fraction, and vice versa.
In drainages, it is impossible to use quarry sand with a high clay content and limestone crushed stone. Clay sand does not allow water to pass through well, and crushed limestone deteriorates over time and loses its filtering properties.
And yet I wanted to make a pond. It is good that we have sufficiently dense soils and high-lying aquifers. And many people think that this is bad. Yes, indeed, it is better for plants and at home if the soil is lighter and the groundwater is deeper. Then there are less capital investments in the foundation and preparation of the site. But the pond is more complicated. You can make a reservoir on a film base or "clay castle". They will have to install a water treatment and water exchange system. And on clay soils and soils with a close aquifer, you can make a prefabricated drainage pond with natural water circulation.
Mikhail Mikhailov, General Director of Mika
Photo by the author
Site drainage is a complex system with many nuances and features. By structure, it can be local (local) - to solve a problem at a specific site. Most often, this is the drainage of the foundation, basement and semi-basement (basement) floors. Also, water drainage systems at the site are common - to drain the entire site or a significant part of it.
Soft drainage - no pipe. Suitable when it is necessary to drain a small amount of water at a summer cottage or near a house
By installation method
By the way of installation, the drainage system can be:
- Open. Concrete or stone trays are used, ditches are dug around the site. They remain open, but can be covered with decorative grilles to protect the system from large debris. If you need a simple solution for draining surface water in the country, these are ditches around the perimeter of the site or in the lowest zone. Their depth should be sufficient so that the water does not overflow at maximum flow. So that the unreinforced walls of the drainage ditches do not collapse, they are made at an angle of 30 °,
Drainage pipe in gravel backfill
The specific type of site drainage is selected based on the site conditions. On clays and loams, an extensive gravel-sandy zone is required, into which water will flow from the surrounding soil areas. On sands and sandy loams, there is no need for such a pillow - the soils themselves drain water well, but only a specialist can say specifically based on the results of geological studies.
By type of implementation
There are several types (schemes) of drainage devices on the site:
- Annular. The pipes are closed in a ring around the object. Usually it is the house. It is rarely used, since it is necessary to deeply deepen the drainage pipes - the pipe itself must be laid 20-30 cm below the groundwater level. It is expensive and difficult to implement.
- Wall drainage - to drain water away from the walls. It is located at a distance of 1.6-2.4 m from the walls (in no case close). In this case, the drain is located 5-10 cm below the basement floor. If the floor is poured over a large crushed stone cushion, the drain is laid 5-10 cm below this level.
The correct solution for drainage from the foundation is a storm sewer system and drainage
When draining a site, a central drain or a collector is made of pipes of a larger diameter (130-150 mm versus 90-100 mm for conventional drains) - the volume of water here is usually larger. The specific type of drainage system is selected based on the tasks that need to be solved. Sometimes you have to use combinations of different schemes.
How to make drainage at the site?
It is necessary to approach the performance of work with responsibility, since the structure will serve for more than one year, and the frequency of repairs will be proportional to how correctly the system is laid.
In order to properly make drainage, you first need to draw up a site plan with elevation marks applied to it, by which you will determine the highest and lowest places.
You also need to know the level of groundwater. Usually, surveyors and hydrogeologists are hired for this, who will make a topographic plan for you and take the appropriate measurements. As a result, if the groundwater level is less than 2.5 m, then drainage is definitely necessary. A plan is being made for laying the drainage system at the summer cottage.
First, you need to purchase the appropriate materials: drainage pipes (plastic, polyethylene or PVC). They are corrugated, have holes (perforated) and stiffeners.
Polyethylene pipes are laid to a depth of no more than 3 m, and from PVC - up to 10 m. The service life of such pipes is more than 50 years, their diameter is 50-200 mm (100 mm are popular).
Pipes are laid before filling the foundation of the house from the outside, and it is necessary to make it waterproof. According to the scheme, we drip trenches, the bottom of which is rammed and leveled with a mixture of coarse sand and crushed stone (layer 5 cm), then we put pipes with a minimum slope in clay soils –2 mm per 1 lm, in sandy soils –3 mm.
However, it is better to take 5-10 mm per 1 rm. Then we fill the pipes with water-permeable material (layer 10-30 cm): first with crushed stone or gravel, then we lay geotextiles and put sand on it.
For observation and cleaning of pipes, we install inspection wells (diameter 400 mm and 700 mm, height - 0.5-2 m) made of reinforced concrete, but you can buy ready-made ones made of plastic. From the pipes, water will flow into the well, so it is installed at the lowest point of the site. This water can be used for irrigation or discharged off-site (for example, into a ditch).
To flush the pipes from sand and other inclusions, water is supplied through rotary wells under pressure, it is carried out every 5-10 years. The hatches can be decorated with sculptures, special stone-shaped covers, etc.
Useful video for creating drainage on the site:
Open and closed ducts
Drainage of the soil can be carried out using open trenches or specialized pipes placed in the ground. The first of them are distinguished by their simplicity in the device, but they do not look very aesthetically pleasing. In this regard, some developers create closed-type canals that do not violate the attractiveness of the landscape.
Open drainage around a residential building using trays and grates
Although surface collection systems are relatively simple, they can efficiently remove moisture from the site in the form of precipitation. Through special trays and depressions, water is directed to a central gutter or drain well. Among the advantages are:
- high speed of construction
- small costs
- sufficient level of efficiency
- ease of cleaning.
Drainage trench at the edge of a suburban area
Closed drainage systems
Deep line systems are ideal for both stormwater and groundwater drainage in close proximity. Most often, they are arranged using polymer pipes that are immersed in the ground for a certain distance.
Closed piping system designed for point collection of moisture
In practice, two types of drainage with closed channels are well applicable:
- point (water collection takes place in one place)
- linear (moisture collection is provided throughout the pipeline through special holes).
Drainage well for a deep system from a pipe with a large diameter
Closed type drainage ditch device
Closed drainage has its advantages: the useful area of the site is not lost, it is hidden and does not spoil the appearance. The device of such drainage is advisable for households with a small land area. A closed drainage system in a garden area is done with the help of fascines. It is a narrow canal, which is buried in the soil to a depth of 70 cm and has a width of no more than 20 cm along the bottom. Coniferous branches or birch brush are laid across the canal, which are tied in bunches. A non-woven material is laid on top of the bundles, then sod and everything is covered with soil. A good result is the installation of wooden crosses on the ditch every 60 cm, on which brushwood is laid, and sod and earth on top.
Such "underground" drainage system must have correctly calculated slopes in order to effectively cope with its functions. Slopes are calculated so that the channel is always filled with water during natural precipitation, and debris does not clog the drainage. There is a generally accepted rule - for every 10 m of the branch channel, the slope should be at least 7 cm.
The drainage system can be made of stone instead of crosses and brushwood. In the dug channel on the sides and inside, stones of a large fraction are laid and covered with earth. Instead, you can use crushed stone or large pebbles, broken brick, cobblestone, expanded clay and other materials, and also cover them with turf on top and sprinkle with soil.
Often, drainage bends are arranged in suburban areas located on clay soils or with a significant level of groundwater. On such problem soils, it is necessary to monitor the performance of the drainage made and always keep it in working order.
In the closed drainage zone, trees and shrubs should not be planted so that their root system does not interfere with major repairs over time, which must be carried out at least once a decade.
I would be glad if an article about drainage ditch will be useful to you and will help you in arranging the correct drainage of water from the site. See you!
We do the drainage of the site in the country with our own hands
Drainage of the site may be needed due to excessive soil moisture, or strong boggy soil, when the water stands and does not go into the ground. We will tell you how to make drainage in the country with your own hands, turning a plot on which nothing grows into a fruitful garden and vegetable garden.
Rowan (Latin Sorbus aucuparia)
Rowan is a fruit tree, with bright fruits that remain on the branches until late autumn and all winter. Rowan loves an abundance of sunlight, although it is not afraid of shade. Disastrously prolonged waterlogging. Neighboring trees should be about 4-5 meters away. Do not raise the root collar above the soil, but do not deepen it either.
Constant puddles, wet ground, and a non-drying swamp underfoot are a real disaster for the owners of the backyard. High humidity is bad not only for plants. Water gradually destroys the foundations of buildings, and in spring, when the snow melts, it can even lead to distortion of the walls. All these problems can be avoided by making high-quality drainage of the site with your own hands.
Regular flooding of the site in the absence of drainage
Do-it-yourself drainage of the site: the main nuances
The choice of the type of drainage system is mainly influenced by the reason for the flooding of the area. It is possible to put in order clay lands, which are characterized by the retention of melt and atmospheric water, by arranging surface drainage. The open type drainage grooves will be enough to quickly remove excess moisture from the serviced area.
If groundwater is the cause of basement flooding, erosion of the foundation, soil swelling, then the problem will have to be solved with a thorough approach, that is, by deep drainage of the soil. Both site drainage options are available as standalone options.
To create a local open drainage network, it is not necessary to draw up a design scheme. Its arrangement is natural in the case when the flooding of the site occurs only at certain points and only when there is an excessive amount of precipitation. Most often, shallow areas are susceptible to flooding: the area near the porch, gazebos. Water will also accumulate in relief irregularities.
Places for the installation of a point drainage system
In the event that the problem area is located near the very borders of the land, to ensure the flow, it is rational to drainage at the site with the usual dug trenches extending beyond its limits.
In steel cases, noticing the places of stagnant water, they are equipped with dug-in water intakes or closed reservoirs. With the water collected in them, it will subsequently be possible to water the garden.
"Ensuring the smooth operation of the surface drainage system is due to the calculation of the correct slope for laying gutters."
Digging ditches across the entire area or specific corners of it is the best way to de-drain clay soils. Here it will not hurt to sketch out an approximate plan of the future system, on which to mark all the drainage branches and the location of the drainage well to which they are planned to be reduced.
Example of a linear drainage plan
Ensuring the smooth operation of the surface drainage system is due to the calculation of the correct slope for laying the gutters. The process of arranging linear drainage systems will be greatly facilitated by the presence of a natural slope at the site. On flat surfaces, you will have to create an angle of inclination artificially. This condition is required. Ignoring it will cause stagnation of the collected water in the drainage channels.
For linear drainage on a flat surface, create a slope angle
How much to lay channels is determined by the absorbency of the soil. The more clayey it is, the thicker the drainage network branches out. The depth of the trenches dug for the drainage of the site with your own hands is about half a meter. The groove width depends on its distance from the storage tank. The widest will be the main branch of the drainage system, where water flows from all parts of the site.
After the drainage system has been dug at the site, they begin to check the quality of its functioning. To do this, a strong stream of water is launched through the irrigation hoses through the canals. Correctly supply water from several points at the same time.
Evaluation takes place "by eye". If the water runs off slowly and accumulates somewhere, you will have to correct the slope and possibly even widen the groove.
After making sure that the drain is ideal, you can start decorating the drainage of the site. The appearance of open ditches is not very aesthetic. When working on a drainage device on a site with your own hands, it is easiest to arrange it with different fractional gravel. At the bottom of the grooves, you can put larger elements of stones and sprinkle them on top with small ones. If desired, the last layer is made of marble chips.
Linear drainage decoration
If not available, replace the material with decorative gravel. What does this mean? Having selected part of the fine gravel, it is painted in blue colors, it can be of different shades. Having filled it into the channels of linear drainage systems, you will get the illusion of running water. For a complete association with streams, plant the banks of the ditches with flowering plants. This way you get not only a functional drainage system, but also a luxurious design element.
Channels dug along the perimeter of the site are often covered with a decorative lattice.
Decorative grille for a drainage channel
Graveling surface drainage is not just a matter of aesthetics. In fact, it is also an opportunity to strengthen the walls of the ditches, preventing them from shedding, and also to protect the bottom from washing out. Consequently, by using gravel backfill, you will extend the life of your drainage system.
When caring for surface drainage, special attention is paid to the cleanliness of the outlet channels. Even small build-ups on the walls and bottom can cause a decrease in operating efficiency. Drains are inspected after every shower. All emerging obstacles in the path of the drain must be removed.
The drainage system needs regular cleaning
The second point will be to control the slope angle of the linear drainage elements. When smoothing it, you will have to correct the bottom of the channel by dripping or pouring.
The point drainage system is manually cleaned.
Do-it-yourself deep drainage of the site
If the problem of waterlogging is not in super clay soil, but in nearby groundwater, then you will have to be puzzled by the development of a closed drainage system. The types of work are arranged in the following order:
1. Understand the depth of the drainage pipes on the site. This indicator is influenced by the density of the earth. The higher its numbers, the less they deepen the drainages. Let's look at an example. Drainage pipes are immersed in sandy soil at least a meter, for loams this parameter is already 80 cm.In clay soils, pipes are placed no deeper than 75 cm. Why can't the drains be laid higher? In addition to soil density, there is another indicator. It's about the depth of its freezing. The drains you are laying should lie below this mark, then the pipes will not deform.
An example of a deep drainage device
2. Select the type of pipes. If surface drainage can be saddled without any specific conductors, then drains will have to be purchased for deep drainage of the site. What does the modern assortment offer? The drainage elements of the system are manufactured:
Ceramic pipes are quite expensive for site drainage, but they will last for centuries. There are farmsteads where a closed drainage of a ceramic site has been functioning for 150 years. Although asbestos-cement products are durable, today they are practically not used due to their environmental insecurity.
At the peak of popularity, inexpensive and practical perforated plastic. As a component of deep drainage of the site, pipes from it will need additional protection against clogging with small soil particles. If this is not taken care of initially, then after a very short time, the drains will clog and stop letting water through.
Perforated plastic pipes for drainage
It is good to use geotextiles to insulate the drainage pipes of the site. Do not wrap drains with filter material only in clay soil. Here it will be enough to lay the pipe on a twenty-centimeter layer of gravel. This option will not work in loams. The pipes will have to be wrapped in geotextile fabric. The worst will be for the owners of sandy areas. Here, the components included in the device for deep drainage of the site will not only have to be wrapped with geotextiles, but also covered from all sides with a thick layer of gravel.
Arrangement of drainage with geotextiles
If there is a goal - to make high-quality drainage of the site with your own hands and there are certain skills to implement it, focus on drainage from stone or brick. Their creation is more difficult and costs a lot, but the efficiency of their functioning is simply excellent.
3. Prepare a place for water intakes. Before digging, you need to decide where the drains will carry the collected water. The pipe can simply be brought out beyond the site, and let the water drain into a ditch dug there, or build a drainage well for these purposes like point drainage systems. The second option is more practical. In a dry year, water from it can save the crop, and it is rarely possible to remove drainage from the site.
4. Excavation work begins. Digging ditches when installing drainage on the site goes downhill to the well. Each subsequent meter of the ditch deepens by 7 cm. Control of the slope angle is carried out with a level. It is optimal to arrange the system drains with a herringbone pattern. In this case, all branches of the linear drainage system will depart from one central pipe having a larger diameter.
5. Prepare the bottom of the canals for laying the drains. When the network of ditches has been dug, it is necessary to start leveling their bottom. There should be no sharp drops in the trenches. The presence of kinks will cause the plastic drainage elements in the area to deform under the weight of the soil. The easiest way to solve the problem is to create a shock-absorbing cushion. It is made from coarsely fractional sand and gravel. Both materials are poured to the bottom in equal layers. The pipes are laid on gravel. If it is not possible to make a backfill, the groove can be lined with several layers of geotextile.
The bottom of the channel is lined with geotextiles
When choosing a filter cloth, look for low density products. High-density geotextiles will make it more difficult for water to seep through it and will make even very sophisticated drainage of the site ineffective.
6. Assemble the system. All pipes are laid out in trenches and connected into a single network by means of crosses and tees.
Deep drainage of the site is ready. It remains to fill the ditches with a sand-crushed stone pillow and soil, forming earthen ridges over the places where the pipes pass. This is necessary so that when the interlayers shrink, lowlands do not form in these areas.
Assembling the site drainage system
After the drainage on the site is equipped, it is not recommended to go through it with heavy equipment. You can deform the system.
Experts advise to start working on soil drainage at the end of the main construction activities, since it is much more difficult to restore or reconstruct the deep drainage of the site than to lay a new one.
Drainage at their summer cottage: the easiest way to protect against erosion by water
The use of drainage systems for the disposal of storm water solves many problems. Such designs eliminate the problem of excess moisture at the foundation of the house, preventing the development of putrefactive processes and the appearance of mold. In addition, such systems save the territory from flooding by storm water, as well as melt water, the level of which increases during the spring melting of snow.
Note! If you do not lay drainage pipes on the site or organize a system of surface ditches, you will have to constantly pump out water from the basement of the house in rainy weather. This is especially true for buildings built on loamy soil types.
The device of a deep water drainage system
How to make drainage on a site with your own hands: choosing a system
Drainage systems are conventionally divided into two large categories: surface and deep. If the installation of a deep system may require certain knowledge and the help of specialists, then the installation of surface drainage at a summer cottage can be done independently. This type of sewage can be called the simplest way to solve the problem with excess moisture on the site.
Note! There are certain restrictions regarding the installation of surface and deep systems. Some conditions do not allow the organization of this or that type of sewage system. Be sure to perform a preliminary analysis of the conditions of the area of the proposed construction.
In order to develop a preliminary drainage scheme for the site, its territory should be inspected and key points identified. All factors that may have an impact on further work on the preparation of a drainage project for the site are considered.
Drainage system project on site
To draw up a diagram, the following information is required:
- A plan of the territory with an indication of all buildings, the nature and density of plantings, as well as the boundaries of the site.
- Topographic data that reflects the features of the relief (not needed if the site has a flat surface).
- Dendroplane (the scheme is necessary if there are a large number of plantings on the territory or their planting is supposed, since the plants are dependent on water).
- Road-path net (scheme of future paths and paved areas that need drainage).
- Communication system diagram.
- Hydrological data (level of water balance of the territory).
On the one hand, hydrological data have an impact on how to drain the suburban areas and are therefore very important. On the other hand, loamy soil types have the same structural structure, so this information may not be needed.
Surface drainage system on site: device
Surface drainage systems collect spring melt and rainwater, after which they remove it outside the territory. The installation of such structures is especially needed for those summer cottages where stagnation of moisture or large accumulations of moisture is observed.
The process of installing a water drainage system in the garden
Most often, such conditions are formed if:
- clay or loamy soil is located under an interlayer of fertile soil (such types of soil are considered waterproof or waterproof)
- the territory has a low-lying nature of the location, for example, at the foot of the hills
- the slope of the surface on the territory is partially equal to zero, in other words, the surface is perfectly flat, due to which the water cannot move independently under the influence of gravity
- the site has zones where the soil from time to time is oversaturated with water, for example, places where plants are watered.
Note! In addition, it is possible to install surface drainage in an area with a high level of groundwater. In this case, the upper layers of the soil can be flooded with a high level of precipitation.
The surface drainage patterns of the land plot are broadly as follows:
- collection points
- trench ladders leading from the catchment points
- trench connecting the gangway system
- a drainage well, where a common trench leads (instead of a well, drainage pipes leading into the ditch or a natural reservoir, or a ditch specially dug outside the site can be used).
Closed type drainage system
Types of surface drainage of an area with a high groundwater level
In terms of design features, two types of surface water drainage systems are distinguished:
- point, installed in areas where water accumulates
- linear - whole networks of drainage pipes that collect water for its further transportation to storage wells.
How much will it cost to drain the site (price of materials for a point system):
|Drainage system element||Name and parameters||Price, rub / piece|
|Rainwater inlet||S'park, round||290|
|PolyMax Basic (300x300 mm), square||490|
|PolyMax Basic (400x400 mm), square||990|
|Lattice to the storm water inlet||S'park, round||100|
|PolyMax Basic (300x300 mm), square, slotted||490|
|PolyMax Basic (300x300 mm), square, cellular||500|
|PolyMax Basic (400x400 mm), square, cellular||900|
|PolyMax Basic (300x300 mm), square, snowflake||1100|
|PolyMax Basic (400x400 mm), square, slotted||1300|
|Components||Partition-siphon PolyMax Basic (300х300 mm)||70|
|PolyMax Basic basket (300x300 mm)||110|
|Edging D380, circle, cast iron||1100|
Helpful advice! Experts recommend combining both of these systems to achieve the most effective result.
Drainage device on site (cost of materials for a linear system):
|Drainage system element||Parameters||Price, rub / piece|
|Drainage tray||S'park (70 mm)||70|
|PolyMax Basic (100 mm)||490|
|PolyMax Basic reinforced (200 mm)||1190|
|Lattice||PolyMax Basic (100 mm)||180|
|PolyMax Basic (200 mm)||820|
|PolyMax Basic (300 mm)||2505|
|Trash box||PolyMax Basic (100 mm)||1300|
|BetoMax Basic (100 mm), concrete||1705|
Features of point drainage of the site with your own hands on clay soil
The point-type drainage system does an excellent job of protecting certain areas of the territory from excess moisture. Before making the drainage of a site on clay soil, as a rule, problem areas are identified, which can be:
- the location of the gutters leading from the roof of the house
- door pits
- entrance area
- points where the analysis of water intended for irrigation of vegetation is carried out.
Laying perforated drainage pipes in a trench
To arrange the drainage of the site on clay soil, the following elements are used (prices for them are posted in the tables above):
- storm water inlets
- sedimentation tanks equipped with containers for collecting large particles and debris
- trench ladders transporting water to the storm sewer system
- dampers that prevent the backflow of water and the ingress of large particles of debris into the system.
Features of the storm drainage system on the site: how to make a drainage system
The drainage system of a linear type consists of gutters that are buried in the soil. Through these channels, water is moved from the site to the outside. When arranging such a drainage in a summer cottage with your own hands, it should be remembered that the liquid is discharged by gravity.
On sale you can find gutters made of various materials:
- polymer concrete
Detailed diagram of the water drainage system
Helpful advice! To reduce the cost of purchasing consumables, you can make your own gutters. At home, you can make concrete elements using special pouring forms.
On top of the gutters, gratings are placed that perform a protective function. The material for their manufacture can be plastic or metal (cast iron, steel). These elements are removable.
How to drain a site based on the key elements of the system:
- gutters fit into pre-arranged trenches
- sand traps are installed in the areas where drainage systems and other similar places are located
- the gratings are fixed on the gutters.
Do-it-yourself installation of a linear drainage system on a site is performed if:
- the angle of inclination of the surface is more than 3 ° (in such conditions, water can be discharged by gravity, which without drainage can simply wash out the fertile soil layer)
- it is necessary to drain water from the base of the house in conditions of prolonged rainfall
- it is necessary to divert water from the relief slopes of the territory
The drainage system will help to cope with excess moisture in the garden
- household structures are located in the same plane with the surface of the summer cottage or below this level
- there is a need to protect the territory of the summer cottage, as well as entrances and paved paths.
Turnkey site drainage installation: work cost
Water can destroy the foundation of a house, destroy some types of plants, wash out fertile soil from the site and even provoke a landslide. Drainage of the site with drainage in combination with other protective measures avoids all these problems.
- Implementation of seamless waterproofing of the base of the house.
- Protection of the waterproofing layer from damage.
- Installation of a drainage system at the foundation.
- Organization of additional insulation of the waterproofing layer at the base.
- Construction of insulated blind area construction.
- Installation of turnkey plot drainage.
Installation of the drainage system by a team of workers
All items from this list (except for the last one) are performed even at the stage of building a house. It is better to entrust these works to professionals. The device of a drainage storm system can be done independently, but first it is worth figuring out what the cost of drainage of a site, performed on a turnkey basis by professionals. This will allow you to make the final decision as to whether it is worth laying drainage pipes with geotextiles or limiting itself to surface mounting of the system, which you can do yourself.
Organization of site drainage (price of professional services):
|The name of the scheme of work||Depth of pipes, m||Drainage pipes diameter, mm||The nature of the drainage layer, m||Price, |
rub / rm
|Superficial||0,4||110 (geotextile)||0.3 (crushed gravel)||1000|
|Rational||1||110 (geotextile)||0.4 (gravel crushed stone) + 0.1-0.15 (sand)||1600|
(1 revision well)
|1||110 (geotextile, double-walled)||0.4 (gravel crushed stone) + 0.1-0.15 (sand)||1800|
|Eco-friendly||1||110 (coconut fiber)||0.4 (crushed gravel)||1550|
(1 inspection well)
|1||110 (Wavin, geotextile)||0.4 (crushed granite)||2300|
Installation of drainage at their summer cottage: the price of elements for the system
Regardless of whether the installation work is done independently or with the assistance of specialists, you must buy all the consumables necessary for this procedure before installing the drainage system.
Helpful advice! In order to save money, it is recommended to buy drainage wells and other consumables in advance. The main thing is not to be mistaken with the calculations. If you are not sure, use the advice of a specialist to draw up a preliminary estimate. The average cost of developing a project for the drainage system of the site is 15,000 rubles.
Drainage well prices:
|Well type||Parameters||price, rub.|
|Prefabricated (made of concrete rings, diameter 1 m). Complete set: pump, plastic hatch, pump retainer, drainage (no more than 10 m)||3 rings||36000|
|Inspection (made of plastic pipe, diameter 0.315 m). Package contents: plastic hatch, plastic bottom||1m||6600|
The average price of cast-iron gratings for storm sewers as part of storm water inlets is 3,500 rubles. Waste basket and walls can be included in the package.
How much does it cost to lay drainage pipes in the country (price of services):
|Pipe type||type of instalation||Price, rub / rm|
|Shallow deepening (0.5 m)||700|
|Deepening below the freezing level||1200|
|Shallow deepening (0.5 m)||950|
|Deepening below the freezing level||1600|
The table shows that the cost of laying pipes for drainage of the site depends not only on the level of burial, but also on the type of material. Working with rigid pipes is much more difficult. This nuance should be taken into account when choosing products.