Wasted labor: 4 jobs on the autumn site that are unnecessary and even harmful
Summer residents devote the autumn season to working in the garden, preparing the site for the cold. However, many of them do not suspect that most of the work is being done in vain and at the same time causing irreparable harm to soil fertility.
Harvesting the tops from the beds
At the end of the season, most gardeners try to clear the beds of plant debris to make the garden look more tidy. In addition, some believe that withered vegetation contains various infections that will damage young seedlings in spring.
However, when removing organic residues, the soil loses its natural fertilizer. And as a result, in the spring it will be necessary to restore the balance from zero, introducing manure, compost, humus into the soil.
Organic farming involves preserving the tops of the beds during harvest. And to prevent the spread of pathogens, you can water the soil abundantly with a strong solution of urea, phytosporin, or treat it with EM preparations.
To increase the fertility of the soil, it is advisable to cover the beds for the winter with a thick layer of grass left after mowing the lawn.
The grass layer will protect the soil from freezing and drying out caused by it, and completely overheating will saturate the soil with useful substances.
Digging a vegetable garden
There is an opinion that the formation of a crust on the surface of the soil and excessive compaction of the upper layers impede the penetration of oxygen, which is necessary for the growth of the root system and its absorption of nutrients. Therefore, gardeners are trying to dig up the beds and near-trunk circles to make the soil looser. It is believed that in this way it is possible to get rid of pests that have settled down for the winter in the upper layers.However, in the spring, it turns out that the soil has not improved, the pests have remained in place, and the weeds have increased even more. And even well-loosened soil after the first rain or watering was compressed and became hard again, like a stone. Thus, digging is a useless and somewhat harmful activity.
Disturbing the soil in autumn, it is easy to disturb the soil channels created during the season, which are responsible for the flow of air and water.
The fertile humus layer, which is on top, in case of digging, will be below and, without the appropriate conditions for the development of useful microflora, it will lose its fertility. It is also a delusion that some gardeners think that before winter the soil should be sown with green fertilizers, which are specially grown for soil restoration and its enrichment with nitrogen and other useful microelements.
The earth already contains all the necessary microorganisms that are able to independently and effectively do all the necessary work.
Collection and burning of foliage
Gardeners remove the fallen yellowed leaves so that their site looks well-groomed and clean. However, even this useless work only harms the restoration of the land in the spring.
Withered leaves do not spoil the appearance of the beds in the least, and besides, by the middle of spring, not a trace remains of them.
Earthworms are actively involved in the processing of organic waste, forming a humus layer. Therefore, you only need to take care of the autumn cleaning of the lawn and gravel paths to prevent weeds.
Pruning perennial plants
Many unpretentious perennials do not require autumn pruning. Their leafy crown, drooping after the first frost, serves as a natural insulation that protects the plant from frost in winter.
In the spring, it turns into a good fertilizer.
Some inhabitants of the site perceive winter pruning as stress and react negatively to it, for example, cinquefoil, geychera, liverwort, lungwort, primrose, bergenia, certain types of geranium, santolina, hellebore. , accordingly, their flowering in the next season can not be expected. In addition, weak and young perennials may not survive the pre-winter pruning procedure.
In clematis and princes, it is completely forbidden to cut off last year's shoots. In the coming year, flowers are formed on them.
A useless procedure will also negatively affect perennial crops that are considered conditionally winter-hardy in the central zone, for example, lavender and lobelia, as well as cereals and thermophilic herbs. Their shoots dried up in the autumn will help to retain snow and protect the buds and root system from cold weather and excess moisture that causes rotting.
It is easier to tie the same miscanthus into a bunch, and in the spring it is easy to cut off the dried grass completely.
Evergreens should be raked to remove old foliage to allow new leaves to germinate.
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What to do if you haven't fertilized your garden in the fall
However, if there is not enough time or desire to cultivate the garden in the fall, you can catch up in the spring. As soon as the snow melts, take care of the bushes on the site. Make a fire, boil water in a large container and pour boiling water over the bushes - this way you will destroy the pests that have overwintered in the kidneys. This treatment must be carried out before the kidneys open.
If you haven't pruned your plants in the fall, do this in the spring. Remove dry or lichen-covered branches, topshoots (shoots in the axils of the main branches).
After the snow melts, dig up the area and mark it in beds for the main crops you plan to plant. It is recommended to use a crop rotation, i.e. change crops grown in one section of the garden. At the same time, you should not alternate plants that suffer from common pests or oppress each other - for example, strawberries cannot be planted after tomatoes, potatoes or raspberries.
On the other hand, many plants form a kind of symbiosis if they grow side by side and give an increased yield. For example, onions and garlic ward off pests from strawberries and raspberries. You can plant a bed of basil next to a tomato plantation, but it is better to grow potatoes further away: these nightshades are antagonists. You can plant any varieties of cabbage next to potatoes - the proximity of these crops will be mutually beneficial.
Many gardeners prefer to fill the entire area with fertilizers before digging. This method has a significant drawback: you are guaranteed to get a good harvest of weeds, even if you spend the whole summer fighting them. It is better to fertilize the beds or holes for seeds or seedlings. As organic fertilizers, you can use compost, rotted manure or dung.
Mineral fertilizers must necessarily contain nitrogen (it is especially important in spring for the growth of green mass), phosphorus and potassium. Microelements are highly desirable: Mg, Cu, Mn, Co, etc. If they are not part of the complex fertilizer, buy these supplements in the form of tablets.
If you are applying the fertilizer in the form of granules, loosen and stir the soil to distribute them evenly and to speed up dissolution in the soil. You can immediately dissolve the fertilizer in water and water the soil with the solution before planting. Carefully read the instructions for use and observe the rates of fertilization in the ground: an overdose can lead to the fact that the plants begin to hurt, and the fruits and berries quickly deteriorate during storage.
How to get rid of nettles in the area
The main condition is to prevent its growth. You can bring nettles on the site in several ways:
- Plant nearby plants that have a depressing effect on the weed.
- Use chemicals.
- Weed out, dig up together with the root.
There are several popular recipes for weed control. The choice depends on the territory occupied and the degree of population distribution.
How to remove nettles from the garden with chemicals
In addition to the unkempt appearance, the above-ground part does not bring much harm to the garden plot. To solve the problem, you need to not only get rid of the stems and leaves. The main activities are directed to the root system. Pulling out or mowing the mother plant is to improve the aesthetic appearance of the territory and nothing more, the root shoots will give new growth. To permanently remove the nettle from the garden, you can use contact chemicals. It is not recommended to use soil products on the soil used for planting vegetable crops. The decomposition time of toxic compounds of herbicides is 1.5–2 years.
Therefore, it is recommended to treat the aerial part with contact preparations. They are harmless to the soil and effective against perennial, dioecious weeds, which include nettles. The processing mechanism is as follows:
- after spraying, the substance enters the vascular system of the plant
- together with the juice it spreads to all parts, blocking photosynthesis of phenylalanine in the leaves
- fundamentally suppresses the production of amino acids
- the bush turns yellow
- internal pressure decreases
- the weed dies.
Glyphos is one of the most popular and safest chemicals in weed control
Several herbicides against nettle are often used in small summer cottages and farm fields:
How to remove nettles in folk ways
Traditional methods of weed control are effective for a short period of time; they will not be able to permanently get rid of nettles in the garden with their help. A minor, intact root patch will resume vegetation and the problem will return. Here are some tips on how to get rid of the weed:
- In early spring, the place of the main accumulation of weeds is burned with a blowtorch.
- Prepare a remedy for nettle from 250 g of salt and 8 liters of water, pour overgrowths at the beginning of the season and cover with mulch.
- You can pour boiling water over the area with the weed plant.
The population will decrease significantly, but it will not be possible to completely get rid of the nettle, first single shoots will appear, then the problem will return completely.
What plants can be used to clog nettles
On farm fields, nettle is a rare phenomenon, it can be found only along the perimeter of the site, but in this case, the harm from it is small. To get rid of weeds on the treated fields, herbicides are used, crop rotation is observed. There will be no nettles on a field planted with rapeseed. Also, melliferous crops are grown, which clog weeds.
The backyard area allotted for the garden is small, so this measure is irrelevant. You can get rid of nettles in your summer cottage by planting horseradish or Jerusalem artichoke - they are more useful on the farm. They will completely displace nettles, but you need to be prepared that these seedlings will create the next problem. The question will be how to get rid of the growing replacement.
How to destroy nettles on the site using mechanical methods
Mechanical methods will help get rid of the weed, if done correctly:
- Weeding or mowing the aboveground part has a temporary effect: the nettle will resume its growth. If you constantly carry out the procedure at the beginning of the season, then over time the number of plants on the site will significantly decrease.
- It is recommended to harrow the plowed land when part of the cut roots is turned over by the plow together with the soil to the surface. If they are not collected and removed, nettles will sprout not only in one place, but throughout the garden.
- The best way to get rid of the weed is to dig up the plant along with the root. Measure from the center 20 cm and dig in a circle of nettles to a depth of 20-25 cm. Loose the bush, pry it with a shovel and remove it.
The green mass can be thrown away or chopped, filled with water, left to ferment and used as a top dressing
Most often, normal lawn care is impossible without this tool. Without a trimmer, you will not be able to cut grass along fences, around trees, rocks, or anywhere else the mower will not fit.
The trimmer is equipped with either an electric (light options) or a gasoline engine (brushcutter). The second option is more powerful, the kit includes replaceable attachments (line spool and knives), which makes the brushcutter suitable not only for work in hard-to-reach places, but also for rough mowing of tall grass and weeds. Of course, it has more weight and dimensions than a light electric trimmer.
No matter how good your lawn mower is, there are always unmowed blades of grass on the edge of the lawn.
For "jewelry" work on the site, a battery trimmer is more suitable. It gives you more wiggle room and allows you to work without being tied to a power outlet.
Electric trimmers are lightweight, compact, easy to operate and maintain. However, in most cases, the engine power will not allow using steel knives and mowing tough grass. But for these tasks it is better to use a more powerful technique.
Leafy land. How to make leafy ground and apply on the site
Leafy soil is formed by natural decomposition of the leaves, which progresses over time. It is a kind of compost obtained from the leaves of trees and shrubs. The difference between regular compost and leafy soil is due to the nutrient content. The compost contains significantly more nutrients, since the compost is obtained from nitrogen-rich organic waste. Sheet earth is mainly carbon compounds, which are the main constituent material of sheet plates. The leaves, converted into humus, are used as a supplement to the soil, which significantly improves its structure by increasing the layer of absorbing water.
Why use leaf land?
Leaf landadded to flower beds or flower pots improves soil quality in at least two ways. Significantly increases its ability to accumulate moisture, significantly improving growing conditions, especially on light, highly water-permeable soils. It also creates a favorable habitat for earthworms and soil microorganisms that improve the structure of the soil. Plants grown in areas with added leafy soil are less susceptible to drying out, and their roots develop more easily in loose, humus soil.
Preparing leafy soil yourself is also a great way to use leaves, which are a big problem in many garden plots in the fall.
Which leaves are suitable for leafy ground?
For the preparation of leafy soil, you can use the leaves of most trees, ornamental and fruit shrubs, with the exception of leaves with a large amount of tannins. An excellent source of leaf compost is, for example, the leaves of fruit trees. Never use walnut and oak leaves for compost - they decompose slowly due to the tannins they contain.
How to cook leafy soil?
In large gardens, the leaves simply need to be placed on a compost heap, which must be large enough to retain moisture. If the number of leaves is small, a garden composter can be used to facilitate compact storage of the leaves. Leaves stored on a heap or composter can be transferred with ready-made compost (if available) or a little soil. After that we water the future compost abundantly.
In small gardens, good leafy soil can be prepared in plastic bags, in which we also add a small amount of soil or ready-made compost.Hole the filled bags in several places and water the contents. For composting, place the bags in a shady corner of the garden - checking the moisture content of the contents from time to time.
The process of preparing leafy earth is not laborious, but lengthy, so it is necessary, first of all, to be patient. It takes 6 to 12 months for the leaves to turn into humus. Composting can be accelerated by chopping the leaves (eg with a mower) and regularly watering the compost heap or sacks of leaves.
How to use leafy land?
We add leafy soil to the soil, usually in spring or autumn, in the process of preparing sowing or planting plants. Just like compost or manure, we mix it with the top layer of soil. However, throughout the season, we can use leafy soil to mulch flower beds and beds, thereby providing plants with increased soil moisture and limiting the development of weeds. It must be remembered, however, that leafy soil, while providing plants with favorable conditions for growth, does not provide them with nutrients that we need to apply differently, for example, by adding compost or manure.
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Not only on the site, but also on the flower bed, planting work does not stop in October. Bulbous flowers should be planted so that in early spring they will delight you with their beauty. Tulips are considered the main representatives. For the best planting effect and to minimize spoilage, planting material is recommended to be treated for half an hour with manganese solution or Fitosporin, which will negate the likelihood of plant infection.
October is a really difficult month, since all thoughts are set for rest, because the season is almost over, but it turns out that much still needs to be done so that the pressing problems are not eliminated next year.