Types of roses, their features, the choice of planting material
The queen of flowers is a rose. Part 1
If you ask any person about the most beautiful flower, the answer will almost always be the same: of course, it is a rose, the unchanging queen of flowers. Its amazing beauty and aroma have served as the source of countless legends and stories. She served and serves as a symbol of love, tenderness and passion, beauty and youth, giving them to everyone who sees this miracle of nature.
To get closer to her and get to know her features better, it is worth planting a rose in your garden. And choosing roses from countless modern varieties and groups is not easy even for a specialist. Let's try to figure it out.
Classification of garden roses
The classification of garden roses changes with the emergence of new hybrids, the boundaries between different groups can be quite difficult to draw. Until relatively recently, garden groups of roses were distinguished in our country: remontant (capable of re-flowering), tea, tea-hybrid, polyanthus, floribunda, climbing, semi-climbing, large-flowered climbing, grandiflora, miniature, ground cover and shrub, wild rose hips, or park ...
This classification is based on the origin and biology of the roses. Now, due to the abundance of imported planting material, gardeners and specialists are faced with a different classification, new groups and varieties appear, and the usual groups receive different names. Moreover, different firms can name the groups differently and assign the same varieties to different groups.
Flower bed rose
We can say that foreign classifications are often based on the use of roses in the garden: flower beds, parks, ground cover, ramblers, etc. The familiar, long-term and abundantly flowering hybrid tea, polyanthus, floribunda and grandiflora are referred to as flowerbed roses. One of the relatively new named groups called "scrub", which translated from English means "bush". It includes modern varieties of shrub roses.
The group "shrubby" was named, most likely, due to some misunderstanding in translation from English or German when publishing catalogs. Roses, as they say, are by definition shrubs. Shrub roses now include all wild species and old garden (park) roses bred before the appearance of hybrid tea roses, as well as modern garden roses from the groups of scrubs, Cordes roses, hybrids of rugosa rose, musk rose and moesi rose. Old garden roses are well adapted to the harsh environmental conditions of the middle and north-western zone, are winter-hardy, do not require winter shelter and special care.
They are characterized by a single flowering at an early date and a very large size of the bushes. But in the fall they have unusually elegant fruits. Modern varieties in the structure of flowers resemble floribunda roses and hybrid tea, they bloom profusely and for a long time (and repeatedly). Often these roses are called park roses, they have a large volume of bushes and height of shoots, high winter hardiness (only some varieties need light shelter for the winter), and disease resistance. Park roses are planted both in small groups and singly, in contrast to hybrid tea and floribunda, for which group planting is preferable in order to obtain the maximum decorative effect.
For an impassable hedge, the Rugosa rose and the wrinkled rose are ideal, which practically do not need shelter for the winter. Since the 80s of the XX century, shrub roses have become known, which can be grown as ground cover plants. Their well leafy and flowering shoots cover the ground, practically suppressing the growth of weeds. Blooming carpets of roses are amazingly beautiful, while they are unpretentious. These roses are grafted onto stems, obtaining spectacular cascading forms that bloom even with significant winter freezing. Shrubs and shrub roses have a shoot height of 150-200 cm, which corresponds to our usual semi-pebble roses of remontant origin. Ground cover roses are also referred to as scrubs.
The international classification of roses ARS, adopted in 1976 by the World Federation of Rose Society (WFRS) in Oxford, is based on the principle of using each group in the garden. As new groups are created, the classification undergoes some changes. Currently, all roses are divided into Species Roses - wild, or botanical species; Old Garden Roses - old garden roses, known even before the appearance of hybrid tea roses in 1867 and left unchanged, as having the right to a special relationship; Modern Roses - modern garden roses. All existing species and varieties belong to more than 30 garden groups.
Rose growers in many countries have officially adopted the classification of the American Rose Society. She is published in the periodical "Modern Roses", which is the most complete source of information on modern and old varieties and types of roses.
The choice of planting material for roses
This is a very responsible business. It must be understood that only a seedling grown in the open field on a frost-resistant rootstock in those soil and climatic conditions (or as close to them as possible) can be of high quality, where it will grow further. The experience of gardeners and specialists shows that nurseries from the mountainous regions of France (Meilland) produce just such material, their park roses bloom for a long time, are very stable, do not require special pruning and shelter, except for the usual autumn hilling and several branches of spruce branches in the root zone. Roses from Canada, Germany (Cordes) are traditionally stable and reliable in the conditions of central Russia and the northwest.
Modern rose varieties have copyright names, as well as numerous commercial synonyms and code names. Codenames appeared from large foreign companies in order to protect copyrights and consist of two parts. In the first part, capital letters indicate the firm of the originator, the rest of the word - in lowercase letters. For example, the Westerland cultivar has the code name KORwest, since the author (the originator of the cultivar is Kordes (Germany). In catalogs and descriptions it is customary to give all the names of the cultivar. Codes of the main producing countries of roses look like this: KOR - Kordes (Germany), TAN - Tantau (Germany), MEI - Meilland (France), HAR - Harkness (UK), MAC - McGredy (New Zealand), POU - Poulsen (Denmark), etc.
Roses - classic and modern
Half-leafed roses, wormwood, anaphalis
Varieties of different groups of roses have their own characteristics in appearance and agricultural technology. Climbing roses are always of particular interest. Cultural roses with a shoot length of more than 2 meters are called climbing, but breeders classify them as park in origin. Such genes give hope for a significant resistance of climbing roses to unfavorable winter conditions.
Park climbing roses are divided into two groups: ramblers and claimings. Ramblers have relatively thin and flexible shoots that can be easily bent to the ground in the fall for shelter for the winter. Rumblers bloom on last year's shoots, as a rule, once, but abundantly and for a long time. Their flowers are medium-sized, there are many disease-resistant varieties.
Climing - large bushes, consist of powerful thick shoots, difficult to bend to the ground for winter shelter. The flowers are single or in inflorescences, medium and large, from a mutation of hybrid tea roses. They bloom continuously, sometimes only on the shoots of the last year. Some varieties of this group bloom poorly under our conditions. Experienced rose growers believe that climbing roses may never bloom if all the shoots are cut off in the fall. It is important to be able to preserve the aerial part of these roses.
By the shape of the bush, erect and spreading roses are distinguished. Erect roses have their advantages - they can be planted more densely, while maintaining the convenience of caring for them. Greenhouse forcing roses are of this type.
Spreading roses are extremely ornate in the garden, even if it is one single specimen. The ease of bending their branches facilitates the work of winter shelter of plants. Ground cover roses are also referred to as spreading roses, the length of the shoots of which can reach two or more meters. Their classification is somewhat confusing, but the main sign of belonging to a group should be considered the width of the bush, which exceeds its size in height.
Sometimes a squat variety of park roses is considered a ground cover, often a separate varietal group. There are varieties in which the shoots really grow to the sides, in others they sink to the ground due to the severity of the flowers and stems. Often, ground cover varieties are used as climbing trellises for vertical flowering trellises, here their ability to re-bloom and good winter hardiness are very useful.
Ground cover rose on a slide
The presence of thorns on roses makes them, especially ground cover ones, difficult to care for, but there are also thornless varieties, this must be carefully checked from the catalog. The most prickly are climbing roses, which by their nature must climb up and hold firmly there. But even among them there are exceptions - Rimosa has almost no thorns at the ends of the shoots.
One of the most spectacular creations obtained when working with roses are standard roses or "rose trees". It is believed that the first standard roses were grafted with buds on a stem. common rosehip Rosa canina at the end of the 18th century. Since then, the fashion for these wonderful trees has changed many times, sometimes causing bouts of general delight, then suddenly they considered it boring and pretentious. But not a single rose garden in the world is complete without expositions of standard roses.
The height of the boles can be different. Miniature standard ones have a height of 40-45 cm, they are grafted with either miniature or compact ground cover varieties. Half-stems have a bole height of 70-80 cm, abundantly flowering floribunda roses are grafted onto them. Standard grafts are grafted at a height of 90-110 cm with eyes of hybrid tea roses.
Weeping, or cascading roses are obtained by grafting three eyes of ground cover and climbing roses (preferably of the Rambler type) at a height of 120-170 cm. The grafted standard rose reaches full development four years after grafting. Such plants require great attention and impeccable care. It is worth buying them only in the spring, in containers (at least 25 cm high) and very meticulously selecting a healthy, strong specimen with two or three developed shoots.
Such a rose is planted in the spring, providing a good volume of planting space and a reliable stake with a height just below the crown. It should be planted at a distance of about 10 cm from the stake firmly fixed in the bottom of the pit and without deepening the root collar. It is important immediately upon planting to provide for a slight slope towards the bending for the winter.
Be sure to pay attention to the bend of the trunk at its base - it should be on the side opposite to the slope. The nutrient mixture for filling the pits and coma is prepared in advance, and the seat itself is prepared in the fall. In addition to humus, rotted manure, 1–2 tablespoons of granules of long-acting AVA complex fertilizer are added to the planting pit so that the plants do not have a shortage of nutrition, and it will last for at least two years until the AVA lollipops melt under the influence of root secretions ... After planting, soil compaction and watering, the stem is tied to the support stake in three places with a loop-eight: at the base of the stem, in the middle of the height and at the base of the crown.
It is very important to keep the crown shoots from drying out for the period of survival of the planted rose. They practice the following techniques: place of budding and the shoots are covered with wet moss, cotton wool, and then tied with lutrasil. Over the next 10-12 days, while the buds grow, they tirelessly maintain the moist state of the covering materials.
When the rose engraftment has taken place, the “undressing” of the shoots is done very carefully and gradually - in the evenings in cloudy weather. When the buds dry out, you will have to trim the tops. When a rose grows, its crown will need its own support, in addition to the standard one. Now they sell a wide variety of holders, but you can use self-made devices such as the crosspiece of their metal pipes, on which the shoots are distributed.
The peculiarities of caring for standard roses are dictated by the belonging of the grafted variety to a specific group of roses. It is clear that the decorativeness of roses, especially standard forms, is determined by competent pruning. The purpose of pruning is to form a spherical or cascading crown of the correct shape. All types of roses, except ramblers, are pruned in the spring. Rambler are pruned after flowering so that the crown does not thicken and the intensity of flowering does not decrease.
Repaired varieties of this group (Super Dorothy, Super Excelsa) are pruned like climbing large-flowered roses. If pruning is too strong (short), powerful tall shoots are formed that violate the shape of the crown. In cascading standard roses, the main shoots that bloomed last year are cut out, and young shoots of replacement are left. But if there are few shoots, then they are not removed, but their lateral branches are simply shortened.
Particular attention is paid to the trunk, which will germinate with wild shoots. They are removed by sniffing or breaking out as soon as they are noticed, including under the garter and in the crown.
The most troublesome is to cover the standard roses for the winter. You have to dig in the roots on one side and tilt the tree in the opposite direction, pin the trunk at the top with flyers to the ground. The crown of roses is covered with any of the materials: dry leaves, matting, spruce branches, cardboard. Adult standard rose trees, no longer bending, with the onset of frost, spud and wrap the stem with matting, tying it in a spiral with twine. A matting bag without a bottom is put on the crown, tied under the crown, dry healthy oak leaves are poured inside, and then the bag is tied on top.
Read the next part. Planting roses, feeding, pruning and preparing for winter →
Elena Olegovna (Marasanova) Kuzmina
How to plant a rose correctly - tips for beginners
The best time for planting roses is October - the plants will take root well and get stronger before the winter cold. In spring, there is more choice in nurseries, but it should be borne in mind that after winter roses are more susceptible to diseases and pests.
| The exception is cuttings of roses, which have already developed a root system. Such seedlings should overwinter in comfortable conditions in a container, and they are planted in open ground only in spring. |
Rules for creating flower beds
Before you start creating a flower garden on your site, you should familiarize yourself with the basic rules for carrying out work. They will make it easier to understand the process of arranging flower beds and will allow you to make them not only quickly, but also in the best possible way.
On a note! Despite the fact that many gardeners choose perennial crops to create flower beds, annuals also do not go out of style. They are often unpretentious, easy to grow, allow you to create completely new and unique compositions every year. In addition, they are very beautiful and bloom with rich bright flowers, which is their main advantage.
Types of beds
A decorative vegetable garden, first of all, is interesting in that the clear rule of the geometric arrangement of the beds is not observed here. Their shapes can be the same as your imagination drew them to you: round, curved, smoothly passing from one to another, or separated by passages. The effectiveness of such a garden lies in the location of crops between other plants.Thus, an ideal composition is achieved that decorates a garden - a vegetable garden. Such accents are juniper, thuja, ornamental cabbage.
A container garden is created from various containers. This type is a mobile option for a small garden plot. Such beds are convenient because they can be changed every year. If the container is deep enough, its purpose will be tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, eggplants, zucchini, garden greens will grow well in small boxes or barrels.
The lazy bed technique is quite affordable, convenient and allows you to achieve decent vegetable yields. The peculiarity of such beds is the free growth of seedlings (by themselves). The basis of the method is that the beds are not digged or weeded, they are only preparing for planting crops (and the planting itself). They are prepared in the fall, if the necessary mulching material is available, which covers the soil, which does not allow weeds to germinate. The process of creating lazy beds takes only three steps:
- Determine the height of the sides of the garden, make a box out of the boards and prepare a place for its installation (do not forget about the degree of illumination).
- Firmly install a bed in shallow pits, arrange an irrigation system, prepare protective equipment for planting material from rodents (cover the tamped bottom with a fine-mesh metal mesh and a layer of geotextile).
- Cover the box (lazy bed) with soil, strengthen the hoses (drip irrigation system), plant the seedlings. You can additionally install arcs. Watering is not necessary often, but abundantly.
Dig up the soil just before planting the seedlings or seeds and do not touch it again. Mulch comes to the rescue, which will constantly protect plants from weeds. Just water your vegetables and herbs in a timely manner.
Tall beds will allow you to harvest a decent harvest. A frame and frequent watering will protect your seedlings from an unfavorable climate. Such a bed is always well lit by the sun, so seedlings can be planted early. After dividing it in half, cover one part with a film (sort of, the greenhouse is ready). These structures bring an early harvest, from salads to vegetables. The attractiveness of this type of beds is undeniable. The only drawback is frequent watering, since moisture does not linger in such a structure for a long time.
The garden will become interesting, where smart beds will be created. They are identical to lazy ones, but differ in the presence of a sufficient amount of fertilizer. The soil on them is created from compost, which I cover with a thin layer of soil. They will be ready for planting only in a month. In beautiful beds, vegetables will ripen a couple of weeks earlier than analogues.
One of the important points in the ideality of your garden and a high yield will be a selection of garden tools. It should be comfortable and of high quality. Do not forget to build a place for its storage.
A modern vegetable garden is the aesthetic design of the site. Hand-made crafts will be especially pleasant. Of course, specialty stores today will present you with an incredible amount of garden decor. But each person in his soul is an artist striving to give his site uniqueness, originality, beauty. And it is not necessary to buy expensive materials, any junk raw material will do to fulfill your fantasies:
- special pots for seedlings from plastic bottles
- stand for climbing plants from an old bicycle wheel
- decorative flower bed - a train of boxes
- sprinkler from the same plastic bottle
- all kinds of fairy tale characters from tires, logs
- garden scarecrows
- bird feeders
- beautiful flowers made using the quilling technique to decorate the site in early spring
- herbal balls.
Your garden will certainly bring you many pleasant moments and moments.
Planting stock market overview
Plants are the backbone of the garden. The choice of planting material for a landscape designer is question number one. There are several ways to purchase planting material. Plant selection is a very important step in creating a garden. A good plant will delight us for many years and will remain a memory of us for posterity, and poor-quality planting material can bring a lot of disappointments, problems and unnecessary costs.
Firstly, the main thing is to choose a frost-resistant assortment, plants that tolerate the conditions of our winter well. In terms of climatic conditions, the Moscow region belongs to the 4th zone. This means that plants from zones 1 to 4 thrive here. Plants of the 5th zone also grow well in our country, especially in recent years, when global warming began to occur. Around Moscow, on modern maps, a territory belonging to zone 5 is even distinguished. In zone 5, subzones are distinguished: 5a (warmer) and 5b (colder). Plants of the 6th and especially the 7th zone can be grown only with shelter for the winter. Some amateurs are ready to go for the sake of some exotic to spend time and energy on complex care of it. But, unfortunately, it can never be guaranteed that these heat-loving plants will not die when a number of unfavorable weather factors are not in their favor. Therefore, landscape designers do not use such plants in their projects, they cannot be guaranteed. Which zone the plants belong to is indicated in the catalogs.
The allocation of zones of frost resistance is based on the average value of the annual minimum temperature. Snow cover can provide additional cover, but this factor was not considered. Zoning is approximate, since local deviations may occur in each zone. For example, in urban conditions, the climate is milder by half the zone, compared to rural areas, proximity to large bodies of water, slopes, ridges can also have a beneficial effect on the climate, and location in valleys, lowlands, highlands and areas open to cold winds has the opposite effect. ... For example, in Novosibirsk, where it is colder than in Moscow, but the snow lies throughout the winter, low shrubs winter better than ours, because they are always under reliable snow cover. But trees hibernate worse, since their renewal buds are high and open to all winds and frosts. Landscapers in different regions of the country know these subtleties and features of the climate, they know the assortment of plants that winters well.
The quality of the planting material also plays a very important role. The plants should have a well-developed root system that is not damaged during digging and transportation. When buying a plant for planting, you need to pay close attention to its condition, check for shriveled leaves, elongated bare stems, pests or traces of diseases, whether the leaves have withered. Ideally, each tree or shrub should have a label indicating its Latin name, size, number of transplants in the nursery, and nursery details, as is the case in the West. Unfortunately, these are still isolated cases in our country.
There are several ways to purchase planting material.
You can buy plants in western nurseries (Germany, Poland). This is what many landscape firms do now, which buy plants for landscaping their facilities. The flow of planting material from abroad to Russia is so great that we have already moved up to 1-2 place among buyers in terms of purchases. The share of Western plants in our market now significantly exceeds the amount of domestic planting material. In order to be profitable to buy plants directly from Germany or Poland, you need to order at least the volume of a truck. With a small order, you can team up with colleagues or order delivery to an intermediary. But then the cost will be much higher.
It is upsetting that recently a stream of trucks with planting material from Holland, Belgium and even hot Italy has been reaching out to us. Of course, landscapers who give a guarantee for their plantings do not buy such material, because it is less winter-hardy, but ordinary gardeners often fall prey to unscrupulous suppliers.
All planting material can be divided into open or closed root plants and container material.Planting material with an open root system (ACS) is the cheapest. It is recommended to buy such plants in nurseries so that they can be dug up in your presence, and immediately planted on your site. It is also possible to purchase imported plants with ACS, if they were correctly packed and did not dry out during transportation.
Planting material with a closed root system (SCS) occupies an intermediate position between plants with ACS and plants in containers. A plant dug out in a nursery is wrapped in burlap along with a lump of earth. In large plants, the lump is also pulled into a metal mesh. Most large plants in western nurseries are prepared in this way.
Plants with SCS are recommended to be planted at the same time as with ACS, cut the crown by 1 / 4-1 / 3, water abundantly and use root formation stimulants. However, provided they are well watered and shaded, they can be stored for some time and wait for their buyer.
Planting material in containers is the most reliable of all. When planting such plants, the root system is practically not damaged, crown pruning is not required. The chances of survival of container plants are close to 100%.
Usually, small plants are sold in containers brought from Europe, where the production of planting material is at a high level. The risk in this case is associated for plants with a sharp change in climate and with the dishonesty of some suppliers who sell plant species in Moscow that are unsuitable for our conditions.
However, there are plants on the market that only pretend to be container material. Usually these are plants with a clod of earth (with ZKS), which did not have time to sell in the spring and were placed in a container, covered with peat. You can distinguish a fake as follows. A real container plant is pulled out of the container completely, and the soil does not crumble, since the entire volume is densely intertwined with roots.
I would like to highlight this group separately, since such plants have specificity in the preparation of planting material and in planting. These are expensive plants, and their choice must be taken especially responsibly.
Large-sized ones can be domestic or imported. One of the disadvantages of large-sized trees from domestic forestry enterprises is the limited assortment (pine, spruce, larch ...). Unfortunately, there are no nurseries that would grow deciduous and coniferous large-sized trees in our country. They are just beginning to be laid and will be able to produce good large-sized planting material only in ten to fifteen years. Plants dug up in the leshoz (sometimes just stolen, and this is a criminal offense) are of very low quality. And surprisingly, their cost is higher than in nurseries in Germany, where the quality is beyond doubt (the crown is formed, the trunks are even, the plant is regularly transplanted and thus its compact root system is formed).
Germany is the leader in the production of large trees in Europe. German nurseries have centuries of experience in growing and transplanting such plants. Now the supply of trees from Germany has been arranged to Russia. The best time to buy and plant German plants is April, you can also plant these trees (but only deciduous ones) in October. The assortment is very wide, and you can choose plants for every taste and for any conditions.
In German nurseries, there is a strict scale of standards for trees. When determining the price, not only the height of the plant is taken into account, but also the diameter of its crown, the thickness of the trunk and the number of transplants. In a German nursery, trees are replanted every 3 years. Due to this, the roots develop in a small volume and are practically not injured during transplantation. This ensures good survival rate.
We recommend choosing large plants from the nursery rather than buying them from the market or by the road. Since in the second case, you cannot know how long ago the tree was dug, where it was brought from. If the air temperature drops below 15 degrees, the roots of the excavated plant are severely damaged. On the market, the coma of ready-to-sell large-sized trees must be covered with a thick layer of snow, or dry sawdust.
An earthen lump of a large size must be frozen (for trees from forestry enterprises) or tightly packed in a net and not crumble. The lump must be large enough. For example, for a pine tree with a height of 3-4 meters, the size of the lump should be at least 120 cm in diameter. Do not buy large meters with a small clod of earth!
A tree growing in free conditions (not in a nursery) has a very wide root system. The bulk of the roots is concentrated within the diameter of the crown, but the roots of the tree grow from it at least at a distance of three diameters. Contrary to popular belief, most of the roots of a tree do not grow in depth, but near the surface, in a thirty-centimeter fertile layer. Therefore, it is impossible to dig out such a tree without severe injury to the root system.
Planting and caring for roses in autumn
It has long been known that the rose is a symbol of romanticism, love and tenderness. A rose is always an adornment of any flower garden, even a completely nondescript one. A bouquet of roses placed in a vase gives your home a festive atmosphere. How to properly plant rose seedlings in the autumn in order to see flowering bushes in your flower bed in spring? Everything is not as complicated as it seems at first glance. Even a schoolboy can grow roses and enjoy their scent. You just need to do everything right, without ignoring any advice.
Planting and caring for roses in autumn starts with the purchase of quality planting material. This rule is well known to everyone, it is impossible to argue with it. It is advisable to purchase rose seedlings in specialized stores or in professional gardening stations. If all this is not there. Then you can purchase planting material from trusted people or friends.
If you are planning to plant a rose garden, then it is better to focus on choosing an autumn planting. Roses planted in autumn take root well and take root. Already from April and throughout the season, they will be able to delight the eye with their beautiful flowers and charming aroma. Buying seedlings of roses of any type and variety, you need to look. So that the root system is closed. It is desirable to have an earthen coma on the root area. You also need to make sure that there is a plastic bag on the root zone. In this way, maximum moisture will be retained at the root ends. This plays a big role, since the plant will more easily endure the stress of transplanting, and quickly take root.
Autumn planting dates should fall in September-October. The optimal time is the 2nd decade of September to the 2nd decade of October. These terms cannot be ignored. If you plant it earlier, the rose will quickly take root, start up new shoots, it will then be difficult for it to adapt to a sharp cold snap. If, on the contrary, you plant roses in late October or early November, the plant will not be able to root through the cold weather, and will simply die. Also, another condition for planting roses in the fall is that you can see the flower of this rose itself, and buy it "a pig in a poke".
The next aspect planting and caring for roses in autumn is the right choice of place on the flower garden. The place for rose bush should be chosen light, because in partial shade or in the shade, roses will not bloom, the plants will grow poorly, lag behind in the phases of growth and development. Roses can also be affected by fungal diseases if they are planted in dark places where the humidity is high.Many novice flower growers often make such mistakes, knowing that the rose is a fan of watering, but immediately begin to realize their mistake, and are looking for a place for a lighter rose. If everything is ready and the material for planting has been purchased, you can proceed to direct planting.
For planting, you need to dig holes, 60 * 70 cm in size. The rose grows well on fertile light soils. But if there is no such condition, then you just need to make the hole a little wider to ensure air exchange of the root system. Fertilizer is poured into the bottom of the planting hole. For this purpose, humus and compost are perfect. It is necessary to ensure that the plant does not come into contact with the fertilizer with the tips of the roots, and therefore we pour a little earth on top of the fertilizer and lower the seedling. This is not necessary if the root system is hidden by a clod of earth. Be sure to pour water into the hole before planting and wait until it is absorbed.
If there is no clod of earth on the roots, it is recommended that the tips of the roots of these seedlings be cut by 1/3 part, and also soaked in a growth stimulant solution for 2 hours. This will help the seedling quickly adapt to new living conditions. It is necessary to sprinkle it on top with earth so that the grafting site of the planted seedling is 5 cm underground. The earth around the bush must be compacted, and again watered. Hilling can be carried out, but not to a great height, about 10 cm.After such events, you need to wait up to 2 weeks for the rose to take root. If, after 2 weeks, new shoots appear, the sprout has a healthy green color - everything went well. Then you need to open the bush from the ground. You can get even more information on planting roses by reading the article How to plant a rose correctly
Rose is the queen of the flower garden. How to plant rose seedlings in the fall, and what is the correct care for them in the fall, we will talk in this article. Caring for planted plants in the fall is to prepare roses for the winter cold. For this, young bushes are covered with humus, peat, sand. Additionally, sprinkle with fallen leaves from trees on top. Since autumn is quite changeable, this procedure is carried out a few days after planting. And its result will be visible only in the spring, when the bush opens and shows its vitality. Planting and caring for roses in autumn does not require large financial costs, and also does not take much time. But the result obtained can surprise anyone. Your neighbors and acquaintances will be able to admire the creation of your hands in the spring. Roses planted in autumn, with proper care, will be protected in spring from almost all diseases, since they will have high immunity.
Flower seedlings: tips for choosing and an overview of planting options. Rules for processing and caring for seedlings (135 photos)
Almost all flowers are propagated by seedlings or seedlings obtained from plant seeds. This type of growing your favorite flowers is very simple and affordable even for beginners, of course, if you know and follow a few simple rules and recommendations of experienced florists.
Saplings can be used to grow and propagate annual flowers (petunia, purslane, begonia, aster), biennials (daisies, viola) and perennials (delphinium, geranium, perennial aster). Each group of flowers is loved by gardeners, because beautifully grown and flowering plants decorate and revitalize any garden area.
From plants grown by seedlings (seedlings), you can form bright flower beds, flower beds around the house, or plant them along garden paths.
Growing seedlings of perennial flowers is the most popular among flower growers. After all, they can be grown for several years in one place without transplanting, they are unpretentious to care and are resistant to frost.
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