How to choose and buy chickens for a summer residence
We buy chicken
In the spring, many summer residents feel an irresistible desire to purchase some kind of living creature, especially cute fluffy chickens are attracted to everyone, and even now, despite the danger of bird flu. This is not always a sick or old bird, more often people say about this "not for a horse." How not to be mistaken?
I want to give a number of useful tips that, I hope, will help the readers of the magazine choose a really good bird that can thank the owners for taking care of the high egg production.
If you decide to keep chickens only in the summer, then the easiest way is to purchase an adult bird at a poultry farm, but if you are going to leave the birds in the country in the winter, to breed chickens, then it is better to purchase a breed bird in strong private breeding farms. It should be borne in mind that poultry farms, first of all, sell culling, i.e. the bird, the keeping of which has ceased to be profitable, therefore, it is impossible to impose high requirements on industrial poultry, especially since it is difficult to provide the stable feed, thermal and light conditions necessary for it in summer cottages.
It is best to purchase a five-month pullet for the summer. Unfortunately, in spring, young animals of this age do not exist on private farms, because in this case, the hatching egg would have to be taken in the fall, when the free-range bird sheds.
The purchase of any living creature must be taken seriously. First of all, you need to prepare a place for its keeping, food and containers for transportation. You should not wear formal clothes when going to buy chickens, take an apron and a rag with you, because without taking a chicken in your hands, you cannot determine how good it is.
For transportation, it is better to use a suitable size box, just do not poke holes in them, just make two shallow cuts on two edges and push the cardboard inside. These holes are enough for air flow, and the bird does not catch a cold.
So, we take the chicken in our left hand, press it to us, and hold it tightly by the paws with our right hand. We are waiting for the bird to calm down, after which we begin the inspection. First of all, we probe the keel, it is desirable that it be even, any deflections and curvatures are a sign of rickets and can affect performance. Next, we examine the plumage of the kochnya (in other words, the lower abdomen and butt), it should not be heavily contaminated. Otherwise, there is a fear that the bird is infected with intestinal infections, for example, in the spring the most common disease is coccidiosis, which means that the feed is poorly absorbed, and the egg production will be the same.
The most important point in inspecting a purchased bird should be belly palpation. The belly of a healthy chicken is soft, the cloacal opening is widened. The distance between the ends of the pubic bones is 3, and between them and the posterior end of the sternum - 4 fingers.
If the selected laying hen meets all of the above requirements, you can proceed to the external examination. The crest should be bright, fleshy, the catkins are well developed, the eyes are lively, shiny, the pigmentation of the claws, beak and skin on the tarsus is bright. The scales on the legs are tightly pressed, there are no spurs. In general, there should not be anything cocky in a chicken, otherwise such birds are called intersex, popularly called "kuropekhs", it is believed that they bring misfortune. In fact, this is the result of closely related crossbreeding, a clear sign of degeneration. If such a hen also sings like a rooster, she is supposed to immediately roll her head until troubles come to the owners.
The beauty of plumage when choosing a hen, of course, plays an important role, but it must be borne in mind that outstanding layers give up all the reserves of the body during the period of intensive egg-laying, while their feathers become dull and brittle. Such a bird looks very shabby! During the molt, it throws off its feather completely and runs in the needles of young feathers, like a hedgehog. Choosing such a chicken, the buyer must understand that she is demanding on the quality of feed and conditions of keeping. Our climate is cold, poorly dressed chicken will catch cold. In my opinion, the “middle peasants” are still better.
Moving to a new place is a stressful situation for any bird. At first, until it gets used to it and calms down, the chicken may not lay. This is normal. Head shaking is a sign of stress in chickens. Ascorbic and succinic acid can ease addiction. Vitamin C should be given for 3-4 days, 4-6 tablets per head, and succinic acid is now available in water-soluble tablets, a quarter of a tablet a day with a drink for a dozen chickens is enough.
To a greater extent, chickens suffer from food stress. You cannot abruptly replace one type of feed with another, therefore, when buying a bird, you need to ask what it was fed, and try to feed it with the same for the first time, and then smoothly transfer it to your feed.
Organize nests for chickens. If they are somewhere at a height, then there should be ladders, flying off, the bird often injures the oviduct. It is better to have a "lining", ie. something similar to an egg, for example, a plastic case from a "Kinder Surprise" toy, only of a suitable color and filled with something, otherwise the chicken will notice the catch.
Summer in the Leningrad Region is often very damp, this weather always promotes the multiplication of parasites, which cause great damage to the health of the bird, so be sure to carry out preventive treatment of the bird purchased in the spring. First, you need to get rid of the worms. You can buy the necessary drugs at any veterinary pharmacy. The simplest are piperazine and phenothiazine. Secondly, you can save the bird from fleas and lice by washing it with ordinary dog shampoo from ectoparasites, of course, if you have only a few chickens. Then you need to wipe it thoroughly and dry it with a hairdryer. Remember, a wet chicken dies from hypothermia! All the mats must be cut out, the feathers "seeded" with larvae must be plucked out, the damaged skin must be lubricated with Vishnevsky's ointment. Usually, the places where lice accumulate should be looked for under the wings, around the tail, on the stomach and in the mane at the beard. There is a special powder for lice, it is easy to use, it is very effective, but not always on sale.
In the future, ash and sand baths will be quite enough for the prevention of ectoparasites. It is better not to try exotic agents such as dust or kerosene, otherwise, together with parasites, their carriers can be corroded.
It is good to lubricate the legs of chickens, in order to avoid knemidocoptosis (calcareous legs), with sulfur-mercury ointment or birch tar.
Now I am constantly asked how to reliably protect poultry from influenza, except, of course, vaccination. The answer is: do not let me out on the street from about mid-March to the end of June. If you let it out, then only into an isolated courtyard, covered from above (for example, with a reinforced film), into which even a sparrow should not fly into. Cover the grass that you will feed to the bird in some area with a film or lutrasil. And plant more onions per feather in the beds especially for the bird. Add citric acid to the water at the tip of a knife or lemon, if it's not a pity.
Troubled? And how you wanted! This is what economic wars look like now. We have declared war, we must win it and save our poultry farming!
I hope my simple tips will help budding poultry growers choose healthy poultry.
Lyudmila Romanikhina, Secretary of the Russian Society of Poultry Lovers in St. Petersburg
After vernalization, the tubers are treated with a herbicide for the Colorado potato beetle and wireworm before planting. I pull the cord in the form of a rectangle with a distance between the sides of 30 cm and mark the nests with a marker after 35 cm. It turns out an equilateral triangle with sides of 35 cm. I plant the potatoes in the garden when the birch begins to bloom (the leaf reaches 2-3 cm).
I plant it under a shovel: I make a hole, put a double handful of compost and a pinch of ash. I mix all this and put the potato, and next to it, close to the seed of the bean. After 5-6 days, I carry out the first loosening to prevent weeds from growing. The next one is when shoots appear, after about 10-12 days, so as not to damage the plants. When the tops of the potatoes reach 15-20 cm, I carry out the hilling (once).
To do this, I mow the grass, wither it in the sun and lay it out in a bunch inside the bushes, and pour the earth taken from the edge of the garden into the same place. It turns out that the bush does not close up, but falls apart, which improves its ventilation.
I have 44 potatoes for the garden. I cut off the flower stalks, preventing the bushes from blooming. I cut off the tops 15 days before harvesting, leaving the bushes of the beans so that they ripen faster. I harvest the beans just before digging the potatoes. When I dig, I immediately carry out selection, selecting seed potatoes from the best nests. The yield from the garden is 4-6 buckets, depending on the variety and growing period.
As soon as the first bed is dug, I remove the remains of tops and weeds, loosen the ground with a flat cutter and level it with a rake. Then, with a flat cutter, I cut grooves 1-2 cm deep (the distance between them is 15 cm) and sow sideracks in them, sprinkling with earth. And so every bed - dug, cleaned, sowed.
Spunbond - how to choose and use agrofibre correctly
Adding an article to a new collection
Agrofibre (spunbond) is an irreplaceable material for gardeners, especially those who grow vegetables in regions with a cool climate. We will show you how to properly apply this material to help plants thrive and increase their yield.
Spanbond began to be used in plant cultivation more than 15 years ago. To this day, it is a great alternative to polyethylene. With this non-woven fabric, you can easily create optimal conditions on the site for the growth and development of plants throughout the year.
Onions and carrots
I plant them immediately after planting potatoes. I loosen and level the bed, with a flat cutter I cut two grooves 2 cm deep along the cord, retreating from the edges by 15 cm. I sprinkle them with ash and spread the onion set to a distance equal to the length of the small flat cutter, the family cutter is the length of the large flat cutter. Having planted the onions all over the garden, I gently pile on them like potatoes.
At a distance of 20 cm from the onion, on both sides, I cut two furrows 1.5-2 cm deep with a flat cutter, spill it with water, compact the earth with the edge of the board and sow carrots in granules at intervals of 5-7 cm.Then I cover it with sifted compost and again spill the carrot crops with water ... I water the carrots every evening until shoots appear.
And so that you can see where the carrots are planted, we sow the radish every 1 m. It rises quickly, and it becomes visible where the rows of carrots pass. I remove the onion from the garden as soon as it starts to lie on its side, and lay it out to dry in two rows under a film stretched over arcs for 7-10 days.
I plant it in seedlings as the seedlings grow. I plant cabbage in one row with a distance of 80 cm between plants. Before planting, I prepare a bed: I dig holes, spill it with water, put a double handful of compost, 1 tbsp. l. chalk, a pinch of phosphorus fertilizer and mix it all. I plant cabbage seedlings and decorate them with alder branches - I adopted this method from my grandmother. Alder saves from the sun and cabbage fleas for three days. This is enough for the plant to take root.
On the remaining area between the cabbage, I plant beans in two rows, retreating from the cabbage by 20 cm. I buy the seeds in stores. I cut grooves 5-7 cm deep with a hoe, spill them with water, seal them with a corner of the board, spread the seeds every 10 cm and level them. After that I water it again. By the way, watering should be carried out in the evening constantly, until shoots appear.
Care - loosening after rain or watering during dry periods. Harvesting depends on the ripening period. I plant the beets in four rows evenly. Care - watering over the leaves and loosening after rain. I clean after September 15th.
What should be the power?
As a rule, relatively little time is spent in the country, so it is not necessary to install a too powerful device. For washing in the shower, an accumulative model with a power of 5-6 kW will be enough. After turning on the device, you can take a shower in 5-10 minutes.
Distinguish between devices with "wet" and "dry" heating element. In the first case, the tubular electric heater is directly in the water. This provides a quick heating of the liquid, but over time, scale appears on the surface. Limescale reduces work efficiency and electricity consumption. "Wet" ten is changed every 1-2 years (depending on the degree of water hardness).
"Dry" ten is not in contact with water, as it is closed in a sealed flask. But this method of heating can take longer (although not much, which is not at all critical for the conditions of the summer residence).
Such characteristics as the shape of the tank, the method of installation, the type of control (touch, mechanical), the coating of the tank can be ignored, because in the country the main thing is a sufficient amount of hot water, and not a modern miracle device with a lot of additional functions.
Roads and infrastructure
The presence of a convenient transport interchange, options for approaching the site and the house, shops, educational institutions and other benefits of civilization significantly increases the cost of land. All these factors are of fundamental importance if there is a question of permanent residence. For the summer cottage, only transport links will be important. Or at least the presence of an asphalt road to drive up.
All these factors are of fundamental importance if there is a question of permanent residence. For a summer cottage, only transport links will be important