How to place flowers in an orchard

How to place flowers in an orchard

Coexistence of fruit and ornamental plants

The arrangement of gardens has a very long history, and the gardens themselves have a very diverse purpose, and not only utilitarian.

Once upon a time, the gardens were arranged for reflection, poetry, scholarship; in the Middle Ages, the monastery gardens were intended for prayers and pious conversations (but they also grew rare medicinal and fragrant, as well as food plants).

Later, the gardens of wealthy people were intended for receiving guests, celebrations, and official events at the state level. There were gardens for intimate dates and melancholic walks during the period of romanticism ...

At the same time, there has always been an idea that a true garden should satisfy all human senses: not only sight, but also taste (hence the need for fruit and berry and vegetable plants in the garden), hearing (taking care of birds, rustling streams and waterfalls, aeolian harps and the music of the wind), sense of smell (presence of fragrant herbs, flowers, trees and shrubs), etc.

Garden organizers at all times have sought to give a person a reason for deep philosophical reflections, reflections, moods and poetic dreams in the gardens. The garden reflected the surrounding world in its kind and ideal essence. “As a gardener is, so is a garden,” they said at the beginning of the 18th century.

Sedum (sedum)

Modern gardens, which are both a garden and a vegetable garden, are also impossible to imagine without floral decorations. Given the small size of our garden plots, it can be very difficult to combine the useful, the necessary and the pleasant in the form of a beautiful variety of flowers. And yet it is quite possible to grow on a classic 5-6 acres the entire full set of fruit trees, berry bushes, vegetable crops and hundreds of species of ornamental plants.

First of all, the gardener must understand for himself what relationships are developing between the plants of various species in his garden: which of them competes, and who partners with each other for soil nutrients, moisture and light.

The roots of young fruit trees for the first 3-4 years of their life in the garden are located close to the soil surface, so the trunks are kept under "clean steam", that is, in a loose and free form of any plants. If apple trees grow on low-growing rootstocks, then in subsequent years the near-stem circles with a diameter of about a meter remain unoccupied, and in the rest of the area under the crown of the tree it is quite possible to place annual flowers, alternating them by families and years. In addition, ground cover plants and low perennials with a superficial root system can comfortably grow under the crowns of apple trees, pears, plums, cherries.

Hazel grouse

If the illumination at this place is sufficient, stonecrops can be planted there - white, thick-leaved, acrid, Kamchatka, Lydian, false, bent, rocky and others. Small-bulbous flowers can grow under the crown without damage to fruit trees: muscari, hyacinth, scilla, chionodoxa, crocuses, hazel grouses, bird grass (ornithogalum), as well as daffodils and tulips. Viola tricolor (pansies), which decorates their yellowing leaves, as well as biennial pyrethrum with flowers resembling small-flowered chrysanthemums, and various annuals in the foreground are good partners for bulbs.

As the crowns become thicker, the illumination of the near-trunk circles decreases and the choice of plants changes. There are many species of perennials, for which partial shade and even shady places are the most suitable for their nature. The most common of them are aquilegia, badan, periwinkle, brunner, loosestrife, heuchera, diklitra, marsh iris, Siberian iris, marsh marigold, cuneiform saxifrage, shadow saxifrage, May lily of the valley, mint, lemon balm, daffodil (poetic), oxalis , hosta (green-leaved forms), corydalis, primroses and other plants.


If apple trees in the garden are grafted onto tall rootstocks (these are almost all old trees), then their roots go deep into the soil, while the roots of perennials are located in shallower layers. This circumstance makes it possible to use the area of ​​the near-stem circles for the construction of a wide variety of flower beds with a large set of species and varieties. At the same time, you can create mini-gardens of continuous flowering under each of the trees. It is interesting to make sure that many species of perennials turn out to be very plastic and feel great in their unusual habitat. Many light-loving species grow quite successfully in the shade and partial shade, significantly increasing their usual height, but with good nutrition, this does not interfere with the abundance of flowering.

Given the species and varietal diversity of perennials, there can be an infinite variety of plant placement options. Perennials in this case are preferable as the most durable, hardy, not requiring much maintenance, highly decorative flower plants.


One of the greatest practical benefits of flower beds in near-stem circles is their ability to suppress weed growth. But the most important thing, in my opinion, is the creation of a carpet of various plants continuously blooming from early spring to snow. At the same time, fruit trees and berries regularly bear fruit, bringing their colors to every day of the garden's life - from the awakening of the delicate greenery of the buds, the flowering of plums and cherries, apple trees, echoing white and purple flowers with lush brushes of dark purple lilacs - to fruiting with the scarlet color of strawberries , raspberry rows, white, red, black currants and blackberries.

And this has been going on for more than half a century - our garden celebrated this anniversary back in 2004. Of course, it wasn't like that in the beginning. There was a land dug by trenches and funnels, which was nurtured by the hands of our parents, then very young people, who knew almost nothing about garden wisdom, still overflowing with pictures of the terrible hardships of the war years, but were already laying their first garden.

From the very first steps, we children, as much as we could, helped to take care of the garden, and everyone rejoiced at every small victory in comprehending the eternal craft of a gardener. Every spring, plant life revived after the winter numbness, and we, too, were revived along with flowers and trees. This is how the first generation of children grew up, and my sister and I chose the profession of flower growers. Then my daughters and nephews grew up in the garden, comprehending and absorbing its beauty and eternal novelty. In the jubilee year for the garden, my little grandson walked his first steps, he stopped at each flower and berry branch, admiring them and touching them with great pleasure and interest.

The garden continues its life and decorates ours. The most touching sight is children, parents, grandmothers and great-grandmothers with great-grandchildren, happily smiling among the flowers. It was so fortunate that on my mother's birthday we always gathered and celebrated it with the whole family in a blossoming and fruitful August garden.


The filling of the garden with flowers took place gradually. They occupied shady places where vegetables could no longer grow fully. Now, almost under every tree and between berry bushes, where there is space and light, flowers have settled and created mini-gardens of continuous flowering, each different from the other. There are not so many types of flowering plants, but unpretentious ones were chosen, capable of being partners for everyone else.

Crocuses, Galanthus, Chionodox, Scylla are the very first to wake up in the spring. The paths are framed by primroses of various types and colors and daisies. Then daffodils and early tulips bloom, located in groups in different parts of the garden. Blue muscari line the borders of mini-flower beds, surrounded by berry and white hazel grouses. Everywhere, flowers-portraits of pansies are pleasing to the eye, they independently move around the garden by self-sowing.

Evening primrose flower

Under the crown of own-rooted plum in the garden, common primrose, spring crocus, and German iris have been growing together for many years - these species occupy three lines of space from the path to the plum trunks. On the north side, there are several bushes of phlox paniculata with white and pink flowers, in the middle of the square - evening primrose, poultry (ornithogalum), dicentra formosis (low). The southern part of the flower garden is occupied by clumps of muscari and meadow geraniums with river gravity (the latter two species are wild, bloom very profusely and successfully fill the pause in flowering in June). This set of plants ensures flowering from April (crocuses) to October (paniculata phlox). There is a little trick in prolonging the flowering of phlox: if at the very beginning you cut several stems into bouquets, then new shoots grow from the axillary buds, blooming at the end of summer and continuing to delight us until frost.


Under the old apple tree, common primroses and Siebold get along well, blooming later than all primroses - almost until the end of June; they serve as the border of the flower garden. The second line behind the milky-yellow primrose ordinary grows poetic daffodils, both species bloom simultaneously at the end of April - May (according to the weather). On the north side, the mini-flower garden is closed by a line of undersized astilbe with inflorescences of white and ruby ​​color, blooming in July.

The western part of the square is occupied by a bush of tall astilba with apricot-colored inflorescences, which is effectively set off by a decorative cereal - falaris with variegated foliage and tall stems with graceful panicles of flowers. Inside this rectangle there are several bushes of mountain cornflower with large blue inflorescences that bloom in June, as well as tall New Belgian asters and autumn helenium. These species bloom later than everyone else - in August - October. There was also a place for a low shrub aster with a beautiful spherical crown, and a small petal (erigeron), blooming in July-August with lilac-pink inflorescences-baskets. At the end of June, a large bright oriental poppy blooms, growing in the center in front of the apple tree trunk.

Dicentra (diclitra)

The oldest apple tree in the garden is Robinovka, she is over 50 years old, and she is still full of strength and beauty, regularly bears fruit. Under its crown, bright yellow daisies of the Caucasian Doronicum, late tulips of the Rembrandt group (red with yellow and red with white, as if painted with an artist's brush), as well as several bushes of peony of the milky-flowered variety Mrs. Roosevelt (bright pink, terry), blooming in late June - July. The large trunk circle is complemented by a spectacular rhubarb with its high lush peduncle and large corrugated leaves; it grows closer to the black currant hedge along the eastern edge of the site.

Border of viola tricolor, which blooms from spring to frost, frames this flower garden under the apple tree. The attraction of the garden is the "meadow of tulips", which spreads under the solid saffron Pepin, also a very respectable apple tree. Variegated tulips bloom freely under the translucent May crown of an apple tree. In summer, they are replaced by calendula and the ubiquitous tricolor viola growing from self-seeding and showing magnificent "portrait" flowers in the most bizarre combinations of colors, strokes and spots on the velvet fabric of their petals.


A special place in the garden under fruit trees is occupied by perennial asters planted in groups: Alpine, Italian, shrub, New Belgian and New England. Each of these species blooms at one time, and in general, almost all summer. From the end of July or in August, a surprisingly bright shrub aster blooms with a magnificent, correctly spherical crown shape, which it forms independently, without the participation of a gardener, and is especially successful in good lighting.

Lilac-pink, purple, white and blue bushes - the balls of the asters dumosus (its Latin name) are perfectly combined with tall New Belgian and New England asters, which bloom almost the last in the garden and decorate it even after frost and the first light snow. These types of perennial asters must certainly settle in your garden, and they can grow under the crown of trees, without taking up much space, while playing the first violin in the autumn symphony of colors.


Caring for flower beds under the crown of fruit trees is about providing sufficient nutrition for all plants. In early spring, nitrogen fertilization is traditionally given on still frozen or slightly thawed soil: we sprinkle urea or saltpeter superficially at the rate of a tablespoon per square meter of area throughout the garden. In mature gardens (over 10 years old), tree roots are spread over the entire area of ​​the site, therefore, the entire territory must be fed.

Then, in June - July, two more additional fertilizers are given with full fertilizer in accordance with the recommendation on the package. In recent years, the best effect has been obtained from the use of Kemira floral or universal. Water as needed in prolonged dry weather. In September, we mulch the weed-free soil with compost or lime peat with a layer of 3-7 cm, after cutting off the stems of faded plants. You can leave these cut stems in place, folded in a "hut" for better snow retention, and then send them to the compost heap in the spring.

Flowers live well in a fruit garden, even at a very mature age, they enliven it with their colors and aromas, and let there be more such gardens.

Elena Olegovna (Marasanova) Kuzmina

Read also:
How to create a continuous flowering garden:
Perennials blooming in June
Perennials blooming in July
Perennials blooming in August

Near what you can plant strawberries

You can find ideal neighbors for garden strawberries both in the ridges and in the orchard, and even in the flower garden. This non-conflict culture grows well on various types of soil, which means it will adapt to almost any conditions.

For vegetable crops, strawberries can be planted next to beans and peas, radishes, carrots and radishes. True, you need to orient tall plants in the garden so that they do not shade the strawberry bushes.

Legumes loosen the soil and saturate it with nitrogen useful for strawberries, so berry bushes can be planted both after these crops and with them.

Planting garden strawberries next to onions or garlic always gives an excellent result - the strong smell of these crops scares off pests that try to eat fragrant berries. Planting sage or parsley in the aisles works the same way, scaring away even slugs that you usually can't get through. From green with strawberries, sorrel, spinach, salads, cucumber herb also go well.

Garlic planted along the strawberry reduces the likelihood of berry blight and the risk of bushes rotting.

If you have come across ridges at summer cottages on which tulips or irises are planted in the middle of strawberries, you probably thought that this was done for beauty. However, this is not the main reason for such a controversial neighborhood. In fact, these flowers stimulate abundant fruiting of garden strawberries, and therefore become frequent neighbors for her. In addition to them, strawberries can be planted next to clematis, peonies, ferns, nasturtium, delphinium. And pink-colored strawberry varieties will be an excellent addition to any flower bed.

Marigolds, planted in the aisles of strawberries or along the edge of ridges, repel onion flies, weevils, nematodes and other pests, and are also a natural defense against fusarium.

You can also plant strawberries in the near-trunk circles of trees and berry bushes, for example, sea buckthorn, grapes, pine, spruce. The main thing in this is to make sure that the bushes receive a sufficient amount of light and are available for pollinating insects. When landing next to conifers, you can organize a real forest corner on your site.

Fruit garden with exotics

It may seem incredible, but on 2.5 acres you can grow about 100 fruit trees and shrubs!

Gardeners always do not have enough land: they want to plant more and more, but the size of the site does not allow. Well, what can be placed on 6-10 acres? A couple of apple and pear trees, a few currant and gooseberry bushes, a small plantation of raspberries and strawberries, leave the land for a garden, and plant flowers somewhere. Meanwhile, new items appear on sale every year. Either interesting varieties of frost-resistant hazelnuts will catch your eye, or seedlings of the incredibly popular goji berry. Blueberries would also be nice to have in the garden. Where to plant all this? Believe me, there is even a place for exotic cultures! The main thing is to correctly plan the site. We were puzzled by this question, made a plan, and it turned out that just a gigantic number of varieties and species fit on 2.5 acres!

Pay attention to the plan: we have placed in the garden not only classical crops, but also quite rare ones: hazelnuts, walnuts, chokeberry, thorns. Even for such a curiosity as goji berry, they found a place!

The main trick

In our case, all plants are planted not in rows, but with an offset. By the way, you can take this method into service both in the flower garden and in the garden - so much more plants fit!

On the plan, they are all located taking into account the height: on the north side the highest, on the south the lowest. This is how they will not shade each other. We made exceptions only for 3 crops: mountain ash, chokeberry (chokeberry) and hawthorn. They are not placed quite according to the rules - in the shade. And their yield, of course, will be lower. But we deliberately agreed to this “violation”, since there are not many such berries. Well, you see, hardly anyone will need 10 buckets of hawthorn. The blackthorn sits behind the apple trees deliberately - this is the only fruit crop that can grow in the shade.

3 components of success

A garden that is densely planted with trees requires special care.

First, they must be properly trimmed. They say that a sparrow can easily fly through the crown of a well-formed apple tree. We will say more: the crown can be made such that a goose will fly by! The yield in this case will be no less, but such a crown gives very little shade. And neighboring crops can be planted closer.

Secondly, a compacted garden needs to be watered more often, since the roots of trees and shrubs intertwine in the soil and take water from neighbors. So do not be lazy to water them.
Thirdly, the compacted garden needs to be better fed. Not more often, but better! At the same time as the classic, but the dose of fertilizers should be about 50% higher.

When choosing varieties, pay attention to the shape of the crown and choose compact options - swollen plants will be inappropriate here. When you start to form them, keep in mind that you will have to walk around the garden, and there are no paths as such. Therefore, do not feel sorry for the lower branches - cut them out immediately.

Salvia: photo of flowers, when to plant seedlings

And although it's February outside, I'm already in the mood for spring, I'm waiting for it and began to deal with seedlings. First of all, I sowed salvia flowers and I want to show you in my old photos what this beauty is, tell you when to plant seeds for seedlings, how to care for the plant.

I really like these fiery red flowers, I grow them every year and plant them everywhere: in the center of a large round flower bed, and in homemade flowerpots made of tires, and on a small hill, and just among other flowers in an open flower garden. " Read more

Hosta in landscape design

Depending on the host variety, the leaves of plants can be shiny or dull, smooth or textured, as well as narrow, heart-shaped or rounded. How can hosts organically fit into the design of a garden, if in nature there are about 50 species and more than 700 varieties of these plants? There are several simple rules that should be followed when choosing a host for a particular place on the site.

1. For single landing high (60 cm or more) types of host are suitable. You should not plant other plants around them, because large hosts are quite self-sufficient.

2... In curbs and mixborders it is best to grow varieties up to 30 cm high. They can be placed in the foreground where they look good and do not obstruct taller plants.

3. Hosts up to 20 cm are great for growing in rockeries - rocky gardens, where they become the backdrop for flowering crops. Thus, it is better to plant hosts not in the foreground, but in the middle of the composition or in the last row.

4. Near the pond Hosts with a height of 30-45 cm look advantageous. Several such specimens growing nearby feel good in the company of other moisture-loving plants. You can also plant the hostu near the water as an independent plant if the pond is very small.

The prince is a primordially Russian berry, the thickets of which have grown from time immemorial in the northern regions of Ancient Russia.

And now, whole glades of these low bushes with medium-sized reddish-coral, bright pink or cherry berries can be found in the Murmansk region, Yakutia, Siberia, the Urals, the Far East, the Kuril Islands and the coastal zone of Lake Baikal.

How many regions of growth this amazing berry has, so many names. They call her arctic raspberry, mamura, raspberry, mamutka, khokhlushka, hohlyanitsa.

The ancient Rusichi widely used the princess for making jam, juice, wine, filling for pies, as well as for making a "drink of eternal youth" along with 33 more herbs, the recipe for which, unfortunately, has been irretrievably lost.

And the berry got its main name because of the amazing taste of wine and pies with its filling, which were so fond of the specific princes that not a single feast could do without these amazingly tasty dishes.

The prince's servants even outfitted entire expeditions to the north of Russia, where they bought the prince's buckets from the local population for gold coins. In those days, picking its berries was much more profitable than selling furs. They paid much more for the princess.

In the last decade, domestic and foreign breeders have been actively engaged in the creation of cultural varieties of the princess, and they have succeeded perfectly.

Very tasty, delicate and unusually valuable in its composition, frost-resistant berry, which requires minimal care during cultivation, has attracted the interest of many amateur gardeners.

We also consider this culture promising and interesting for cultivation in amateur gardens, so today the topic of our conversation will be the garden princess, her planting and care.


Today, the natural thickets of the princes are catastrophically disappearing. That is why it was included in the Red Book, and heavy fines are levied for illegal, sometimes barbaric, collection of this berry (forest poachers pluck plants covered with berries, along with roots).

But berry-growers of cultivars of large-fruited principality can be found more and more often on the sites of Russian gardeners.

The princess is a perennial herb. Each bush does not exceed 30 cm in height. Its leaves are bright green, trifoliate with a ribbed surface.

Berries are medium-sized drupes of cherry, coral or bright pink color, resembling raspberries in shape. But they certainly surpass her in taste: sweet, juicy with a surprisingly delicate bouquet of peach, pineapple and wild strawberry aromas.

The princess's roots are very powerful. The thick central root goes into the ground to a depth of more than 3 m, and the lateral, rather long adventitious roots quickly grow in all directions. Many new young bushes appear from them. Thanks to this, the princess's plantation grows very quickly.

The princess blooms in the second half of May. At this time, the princess can argue in its bright beauty with any, the most exquisite flower garden.

Quite large coral-cherry or bright pink flowers with a golden mean in a magic carpet cover the entire plantation. There are no leaves behind them. It is simply impossible to admire this sight.

Flowering lasts almost a month (some flowers fade and begin to form berries, while others only open).

By the way, many very eminent landscape designers in recent years have been actively using the blooming princess in their compositions, which by the end of July begins to become covered with bright ruby ​​berries, shining in the sun like real precious stones.

The whole harvest of the princess ripens by the beginning - the middle (depending on the variety) of August.

Full fruiting in this berry crop begins in the third year.


Both the berries, and the leaves and stems of the princess contain a unique set of vitamins (it is difficult to name the one that is not contained in them), useful substances and rare chemical elements (such as germanium, selenium, silver), antioxidants, phytoncides and natural antibiotics.

All of them prevent the aging of cells in the human body, destroy cancer cells, rejuvenate the cardiovascular system, cleanse the liver and kidneys, cartilaginous tissue of the joints, normalize the endocrine system, and primarily the thyroid gland.

Traditional healers from the northern regions of Russia call the prince "a remedy for a thousand diseases." They say that in its composition the prince can only be compared with ginseng.

And even then not in all cases. Some congenital diseases, decoctions and infusions from the princess are treated more effectively.


If you have just decided to start growing a princess, remember where she likes to grow in natural conditions.

These are the outskirts of bogs, low-lying forest glades, small hollows along the edges of lakes and forest streams. So try to create a princess planting something similar on your site.

Seat selection... The princess does not tolerate the bright sun, but diffused light during the day is simply necessary for her. She loves moisture, but does not tolerate standing water on plantations, otherwise her roots will begin to rot and all plants will die.

Therefore, it is best to plant it on a garden bed 25 - 30 cm high in diffused partial shade.

Soils. The princess needs fertile, organic-rich, moist (but not wet), loose and acidic (pH 3.5 - 4.0) soils.

Garden bed preparation... When preparing the bed, dig up the soil well and pick out all the weeds with your hands. The prince can disappear very quickly if weeds clog her. Therefore, we recommend that you wait a week after the first digging, and then dig it up a second time, combing out all the weeds with a rake.

The soil in the bed should be very fine crumbly, absolutely clean of any roots or plants.

For the second digging, add (per 1 sq. M. Garden beds): 2 buckets of peat, coniferous litter, rotted manure and sand. Additionally add fertilizers: 2 tbsp. tablespoons of potassium sulfate and 2 tbsp. tablespoons of double superphosphate.

Mix all the components well with the ground, form a bed, pour it first with clean water (at the rate of 3 buckets per 1 sq. M), and then with a solution of citric acid (2 tablespoons per 1 watering can at the rate of 1 sq. M).

Let the garden bed sit for 2 - 3 days for it to sink, and then you can start planting.

Landing... Before planting, water the garden bed well again with warm clean water (2 watering cans per 1 sq. M). After that, plant the princess seedlings in two rows at a distance of 30 cm from each other. Maintain a distance of 35 - 40 cm between rows.

Water the planted plants again with warm water (the same rate as before planting) and mulch the entire surface of the bed with sawdust or peat chips with a layer of 6 cm. Mulching will inhibit the growth of weeds and retain moisture in the soil.

Watering. The princess needs to be watered weekly. In the heat - more often. The ground under the bushes should always be well moistened, but without stagnant puddles.

Water your plantings once a month with acidified water (2 teaspoons of citric acid per watering can for 3 plants).

Fertilizers... In the spring, as soon as the snow melts, pour your princess with a solution of urea (2 teaspoons per bucket of water per 1 square meter of berry).

In mid-May and late June, feed the bushes with a solution of slurry at a concentration of 1:10.

In the fall (at the end of September), give your plants some kind of ready-made mineral complex for autumn feeding of fruit and berry crops with a predominance of potassium-phosphorus fertilizers and a balanced composition of microelements.

Preparing for winter... Knyazhenika is one of the most frost-resistant berries. In winter, plants can withstand severe frosts up to -50 degrees. Therefore, an adult princess can not shelter for the winter.

However, in the first year after planting, we recommend that you cover the entire bed with dry leaves with a layer of 30 cm in case of a cold, snowless winter.


Now you know what the prince's berry is and how its planting and care are carried out.

We have prepared for you wonderful saplings of the cultural princess ordinary, which you can order from us for the spring today on our website or from the SPRING 2021 catalog!

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