5 tips to grow apple-sized garlic
To harvest large garlic, it is enough to follow the simple rules for growing it. If you want to get a quick result, and not waste time on unsuccessful experiments, use the advice of experienced gardeners.
Plant in the sun
Garlic is a sun-loving plant. Therefore, choose open areas for planting it that are well lit by the sun throughout the day.
Small hills, located away from bushes, fruit trees and beds with tall vegetables, are best suited.
If you plant the garlic in the shade or partial shade, then prepare for the fact that it will grow small. At the same time, the volume of the harvest will decrease by 30-50%.
The active growth phase of garlic begins in May and lasts until mid-July. During this period, the culture requires moderate watering 3-4 times a month, since it develops well only in moist soil. In case of rainy weather, watering should be reduced by 2 - 3 times, because an excess of liquid will cause the appearance of bacterial and fungal diseases, as well as yellowing of the foliage.
From the second half of July, soil moisture should be reduced by 2 - 3 times, and with frequent rains, completely stop it. If the land plot is located in a lowland, then make a hill for the garlic beds. This will help prevent moisture build-up.
Monitor the acidity of the soil
Garlic will be most comfortable in soil with a pH of 6 to 7. Therefore, be sure to check the acidity of the soil before planting. For example, using test strips (litmus paper).
You can also find out about the high acidity of the earth by the weeds. If a lot of woodlice, plantains, mint or buttercups grows on your site, then the earth needs to be deoxidized. This can be done using dolomite flour or ash by adding two glasses of the chosen product to a bucket of soil.
If you plant garlic directly in acidified soil, it will grow frail and small.
Mulch the beds with a thick layer
Covering the beds with a thick layer of mulch (3 - 5 cm), you will protect the plantings from recurrent spring frosts and provide the necessary level of soil moisture. This will significantly increase the size and yield of the garlic. In addition, mulching will make it easier to care for your garden beds by slowing down the growth of weeds.
For this purpose, leaf litter, straw, rotted hay or compost are suitable. Using green manures (legumes, grasses, cruciferous plants, etc.) will also help increase soil fertility.
Treat the soil with ammonia
When the garlic grows to 12 - 15 cm, you can start using top dressing. During this period, nitrogen fertilizers are needed, since they will help you grow a strong and large vegetable. The best option is ammonia. It is easily absorbed by the plant and has no contraindications.
To prepare top dressing, buy 10% ammonia at the pharmacy and dilute 2 tablespoons in 10 liters of water. Water the plantings with the prepared solution once every 10 days.
In addition to the tips described, do not forget to observe the crop rotation. Change the planting site every year and do not plant garlic immediately after potatoes, onions, carrots and other root vegetables, as these will greatly impoverish the soil. You should also avoid alternating with nightshade crops, which can cause Fusarium infection.
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Rules for growing large garlic: tips and tricks
The beneficial properties of garlic are known to everyone. This vegetable helps us to cope with many ailments, promotes faster digestion of food and makes its taste richer and more varied. In addition, experienced gardeners and gardeners appreciate this vegetable for its ability to protect other vegetable and fruit plants from numerous pests and diseases.
Many lovers of growing healthy and tasty vegetables on their site are interested in how to grow large garlic, what needs to be done to increase yields, and whether it is possible to grow this healthy vegetable on a windowsill in winter.
The size of the fruits depends on many factors, including the quality of the planting material, the choice of a place for the garden, and care. The planting of spring varieties is carried out in early spring, immediately after the snow leaves.
If you plant it later, then the bulbs will be small, they will not have time to form before the onset of the hot period.
Winter varieties are planted in mid-autumn - before frost appears. In the fall, the plant should have time to harden, but not germinate.
How to choose planting material to grow large garlic:
1. It is advisable to use large bulbs that do not have mechanical damage or signs of decay.
2. There should be at least 5 teeth on the head. How large the fruits will be depends on their size.
3. The variety chosen must be adapted to the local climate.
4. Immediately before planting, the bulbs are soaked in a barely pink solution of potassium permanganate for about 10-20 minutes, and then in warm water with the addition of any growth stimulant for 12 hours.
The nuances of growing large garlic:
1. The bed should be in a sunny place. There should be no tall plants or buildings nearby that give shade.
2. Ideal predecessors are peas, beans, cabbage, cucumbers, the best neighbors are tomatoes.
3. The culture prefers a land that is non-acidic, light and loose. If the soil is clayey, it is worth adding sand, peat or other baking powder.
4. If the level of groundwater is too high, or the garden is in a lowland, the bed must be raised so that the water does not stagnate.
5. Before planting, the site must be cleaned of residues of vegetation, loosened, add humus or compost at the rate of 1 bucket per 1 square meter. m.
6. When making rows, it is worth considering the distance - it should be at least 20 cm. It is enough to make a distance of 10 cm between the bulbs.
7. Winter varieties of garlic are planted to a depth of 5-6 cm so that the crop does not suffer from frost, the heads grow large, and spring varieties grow by 2 cm. At the same time, it is undesirable to press the planting material and compact the soil so that it does not hinder its development.
8. Water the beds once a week, if there is no rain, without flooding. After each watering, the aisles need to be loosened.
9. A week after planting the cloves, the plant should be fed with nitrogen, and a month later with potassium and phosphorus.
It is undesirable to plant garlic after potatoes or carrots, as well as plant it in one place for two years in a row.
How to grow only large heads of garlic?
As noted, garlic gets smaller over time for a number of reasons. Not quite the right fit is one of them. Garlic should not be planted in soil previously used for crops such as onions and garlic, carrots, or cucumbers.
But the previous plantings of legumes and cauliflower favor the good development of garlic crops. The neighborhood with such plants as peppers and tomatoes will also be useful - the garlic will grow large! Of course, autumn composting into the soil is necessary in the allotted area for garlic.
Attention should be paid to the illumination of crops. Even the shadow from the fence will prevent the greenery from growing to its full height.
For more than 2 years, garlic cannot be planted in one place.
When planting garlic in autumn, it is better to plant it in a place where onions have not grown before. But after potatoes and cabbage, garlic will give a good harvest.
Having considered the reasons why garlic is getting smaller, you can avoid them in the future.
The main reason is that garlic has a tendency to degenerate. Garlic, being a three-year-old plant, is made by summer residents as annuals. In order for the garlic variety to retain its large size, you need to get a single clove from the bulb, then a clove, and then again a bulb. Thus, 1 sq. a meter of bulbs will give 400 one-tooth. The period for harvesting winter garlic will come when the crusts of the left bulbs will burst. But the teeth from which the bulbs appeared are not re-planted!
Considerable attention is paid to the garden bed itself before sowing garlic, since garlic needs fertile soil and rich in minerals. A month before planting, organic matter and minerals are introduced into the soil. Approximate feeding mixture for 1 sq. meter: half a bucket of sawdust and manure, a can of bird droppings, a can of lime.
After entering the garden, it is harrowed, watered with a weak solution of potassium permanganate and covered with a film for a while. The best time to plant winter garlic is from late September to mid-October. One-teeth are planted to a depth of 5 cm, and 3 cm is enough for the bulbs. In dry weather, the plants are mulched and watered. When the arrows reach 10 cm, they are broken off.
Sowing of spring garlic is carried out in April, which is watered abundantly, but not often.
There is also an easier way to grow large heads of garlic. A special variety is planted and bred. Many people prefer the rockumbol variety.
If the listed requirements are met, the garlic does not grind and will delight with large heads.
Secrets of large garlic
Compliance with certain rules for growing a crop will help increase yields. Outdoor-grown garlic will be large if:
- drop it off on time
- choose the right variety
- be sure to update the planting material every 3 years, growing from bulbs
- in shooting species, pinch off arrows in time
- in spring varieties, tie leaves to stimulate the outflow of nutrients from the foliage to the head
- take proper care of garlic (watering, fertilizing, mulching).
Compliance with crop rotation
As a recommendation for a gardener-gardener - observance of crop rotation:
- the best precursors for garlic in the country are siderates (alfalfa, clover, oats, mustard), strawberries, pumpkin, cucumbers, peas, zucchini, cabbage
- it will not be possible to get a high yield after nightshade crops (tomatoes, potatoes, eggplants) and root crops (beets, radishes, onions, garlic): in this case, the likelihood of plant diseases increases, as well as a decrease in the size of the heads.
If you plant a crop next to tomatoes or peppers, then the yield will be larger.
You should not sow the garden for several years in a row with one crop, so as not to reduce the yield. Large garlic will turn out only with an annual change of the landing site.
Garlic garden care
Caring for growing garlic after planting involves mulching the soil. It allows you to:
- keep moisture
- reduce the amount of watering
- exclude weeding, loosening.
After the arrows grow back up to 20 cm long, they are shortened to 5 cm: you can cut off with a sharp tool or break off, leaving a stump of the desired length. The main thing is to remove the upper part - the rudiment of the future inflorescence. This will increase the supply of nutrients to the bulb.
20-30 days before harvesting (winter varieties - until mid-July, spring - in the first week of August) shake off the soil from the heads. This is done to redirect some of the food to the bulb and thereby increase its size. The soil is removed with a special device so that the teeth half peep out of the soil.
Since garlic is a moisture-loving plant, it grows well in moist soil. Therefore, an important point in the care of the crop is the correct watering.
The basic rules are as follows:
- most of all, a vegetable needs moisture in the spring, when the root system is actively formed (the first 3 weeks after planting): during this period it needs to be watered abundantly (15 liters per 1 m 2) every 5-7 days
- the volume and frequency of irrigation depend on the weather: at a moderate temperature, 10–12 liters are consumed per 1 m 2 with a break of 1–1.5 weeks, in the heat, 15 liters are poured onto the same area with an interval of 5–6 days, and on rainy days, humidification soils stop
- after the procedure, it is necessary to sprinkle the bare heads with earth
- use preferably warm water, which has stood for some time in the sun.
In no case should waterlogging be allowed, since fungal diseases develop in such an environment and the bulbs deteriorate.
If you feed the plants in time, then you can grow garlic with large heads. The winter variety is shed with urea in the spring after the snow melts, and then fertilized as needed. Poor soils are enriched with nutrients 1-2 times a month until the end of the growing season.
When growing spring garlic, top dressing is applied twice:
- The first feeding is done in early spring with a solution of bird droppings (1 kg per bucket of water) or mullein (in the same amount per 8 liters of water).
- In the middle of summer, pour it with an ash solution (a glass on a bucket of water).
The gardener must follow one important principle: the amount of fertilizer applied should be in moderation. Excess organic matter contributes to the yellowing of the foliage and the cessation of bulb growth. A large amount of minerals will negatively affect their taste and quality.
Diseases and pests
A number of pests and diseases can spoil the enjoyment of growing a crop. Garlic is attacked by nematodes, bears, centipedes, onion moths and other insects.
Traditional methods will help save plants from pests:
- spraying twice a month with infusion of tobacco (0.25 kg) and ground pepper (2 tsp): pour 3 liters of hot water, hold for three days, then strain, dilute with water to 10 liters, stir in liquid soap (2 tbsp. l.)
- pollination with a mixture of pepper, tobacco and wood ash 2 times a month.
The plant is susceptible to such diseases:
- rot of the bottom (the bulb rots, the roots die off, the foliage turns yellow)
- downy mildew (the process of maturation of the head stops)
- white rot (the aerial part of the plant dies off and the bulbs rot)
- bacterial rot (teeth deteriorate).
To prevent the development of diseases, before planting, the seed is treated with a solution of ash, copper sulfate or potassium permanganate.
Harvesting and storage
Winter varieties ripen in early August. When the lower leaves turn yellow, they start harvesting. You cannot tighten with this, otherwise the heads will begin to dry out and crumble. The shelf life of such a product may be reduced.
Spring varieties are harvested in late summer - early autumn, when the feathers turn yellow and begin to lay down, and the bulbs have already been formed.
After harvesting, the plants are dried for 1.5 weeks, shaking off the ground. Next, the roots and part of the stem are cut, leaving a core 5 cm long for winter crops, 2 cm for spring crops. The largest specimens are selected for seed.
The storage conditions are as follows:
- temperature: 16–20 ° С for spring varieties, 2–4 ° С - for winter crops
- humidity: medium.
Secrets of growing large garlic
There are several simple agronomic techniques for growing large garlic.
For planting winter varieties, you need to choose the time so that the teeth have time to take root before the onset of frost, but do not have time to grow. On average, this time interval falls on the end of September - the beginning of October, but for each region it can be different. When sowing a spring variety, it must be borne in mind that the bulb must have time to form before the onset of heat - only in this case, you can count on large heads.
Compliance with crop rotation
It is not recommended to plant the culture in one place for more than 2 years in a row, and in order to obtain large bulbs, it is advisable to change the planting site every year.
The beds should be placed in a well-sunlit place. Otherwise, small bulbs will grow.
For a crop, neutral acidity and good drainage properties of the soil are very important. In heavy and acidic soil, garlic bulbs will certainly grow small, or even disappear altogether.
The quality of the planting material
For planting, you should choose varieties intended for your region.When buying imported varieties of white garlic, remember that for transportation they are treated with special solutions that suppress root growth, so it is almost impossible to grow good large bulbs from such material.
Some varieties of winter garlic produce arrows with seeds. If they are not removed in time, the plant will send all the juices to the ripening of the seed bulbs, which will affect the size of the heads. It has been noticed that plants with arrows left form heads in half.
Deep seating of teeth
Experienced gardeners advise planting slices to a depth of 5–7 cm in order to prevent them from freezing in winter and premature heating in spring. It is known that garlic grows faster in cold temperatures, while bulb growth stops in hot weather.
Too tight fit
The optimal distance for planting a crop is considered to be 20 cm between rows, and 8–10 cm between the teeth. If the distance is less, the bulbs will grow small.
In the spring, when the snow has melted and the sun has sharply warmed up, a crust forms on the surface of the soil, preventing oxygen from reaching the roots. If the surface is not loosened in time, then the bulbs may lag behind in development.
During its active growth, the plant needs to maintain high soil moisture. While during the ripening period of the heads, on the contrary, high humidity harms it.
Mulching the garden
Mulch maintains soil moisture and eliminates the need for frequent watering in hot weather. If the summer is hot, it will not be possible to grow large heads without mulch.
During the growing season, the plant should be fed three times. Whatever fertilizer you choose - mineral or organic, it is important not to exceed the amount. If the plants are given a lot of organic matter, then the leaves will begin to turn yellow, and the heads will stop growing. If you feed in excessive amounts of mineral mixtures, the taste and quality of the bulbs will deteriorate.
And the last thing to pay attention to. Garlic is considered a perennial, or rather a three-year-old plant, but most gardeners grow it as an annual. This leads to the fact that over time it becomes smaller - it simply degenerates.
Update your planting material regularly. When planting winter varieties, leave a few arrows to obtain seeds, and then grow from them planting bulbs, consisting of one clove. In the third year, a large, full-bodied garlic head can be grown from such a clove.