One Warrior in the Field: Unequal Weed Control Winning Strategy
With the onset of the first warm days, the owners of household plots begin preparations for the outbreak of hostilities aimed at destroying the ubiquitous weeds. Shovels and hoes are sharpened, herbicides are bought, but a person rarely succeeds in getting out of the battle as a winner. And this happens because nature does not tolerate emptiness. Weeds still appear on the site where there is free space and suitable conditions for growth.
To defeat the enemy, you need to know everything about him
The main reason for failures in weed control is the wrong choice of method of destruction and the lack of prevention of re-growth. You can get rid of all the weeds that grow on the site forever, but for this you need to understand what plants the gardener or gardener is dealing with.
Annual plants, such as garden purslane, cyclachena, scherch (amaranth), quinoa, shepherd's purse, reproduce mainly by seeds. The only way to clear the area from them is to prevent the fruit from ripening by destroying the shoots before flowering.
One cyclachene plant is capable of producing several thousand seeds, which remain viable for up to 8-10 years.
Perennials like dandelions, nettles, comfrey, clover, wheatgrass or burdock can only be defeated by destroying the plant along with the root.
The best strategy is a complex fight
The most common ways to deal with unwanted plants on the site are plowing, digging and weeding, using herbicides and mulching.
Deep loosening of the soil
When plowing, the topsoil is turned over, damaging the roots of most perennials. Weed seeds fall deep into the soil, where, without heat and light, they lose the opportunity to germinate.
Deep loosening helps in weed control and oxygenates the soil, but results in significant moisture loss. Watering after such treatment should be more abundant.
Of the possible methods of deep loosening, cultivating the land with a cultivator or digging up the site by hand is the most effective. But if horsetail, wheatgrass or euphorbia have settled on the site, crushing the roots with a cultivator will only aggravate the situation, since each internode on the rhizomes of these weeds represents a new growth point. In the fight against such weeds, only manual processing of the soil will help with the removal of every single root shoots.
Surface loosening and weeding
Loosening and weeding, done at the same time, improves the condition of the soil and allows you to kill weeds at an early stage of growth. The work uses hoes, flat cutters, rakes, hand cultivators and other similar equipment. With regular weeding of the site, you need to remove young shoots of weeds from the root.
If the weed grows very close to the root of the cultivated plant, it is preferable to remove only its aerial part and, if necessary, repeat this procedure before harvest.
Application of herbicides
Herbicides are chemical preparations used in agriculture to kill weeds in cultivated crops. Herbicides are different in their composition, method of application and field of action, but they work the same way - they penetrate into plant cells and destroy them.
According to the conditions of application, herbicides are divided into soil, or pre-emergence (they are introduced into the soil or applied to it before sowing or before emergence), and leaf or post-emergence. Soil herbicides are absorbed by seeds, roots, seedlings, and leaf herbicides are absorbed by aerial parts of plants during different growing seasons.
On the free sale, you can find a wide range of drugs and choose from the abundance offered what is suitable for specific needs:
- Selective herbicides (Triceps, Hacker, Esteron) are used to destroy certain types of weeds.
- Continuous herbicides (Agrokiller, Tornado, Roundup) - destroy all plants in the area of application, including cultivated ones.
Herbicides are very effective in killing weeds. With the help of Roundup, for example, you can get rid of not only malicious perennials, but also unnecessary shrubs. It is important to remember that the vacated space will immediately be occupied by the seeds of other weeds, and after a while the treatment will have to be carried out again. Therefore, it is better to use the treated area for your needs immediately after the expiration of the period indicated by the manufacturer in the instructions for the drug.
It is necessary to fight against weeds with creeping rhizomes (wheatgrass, horsetail, bindweed) totally, cultivating the entire area occupied by plants. Otherwise, the roots of the surviving specimens will crawl into free space, nullifying all efforts. If the site is surrounded by thickets of these weeds, then along the borders it makes sense to dig in a solid fence to a depth of at least 30 cm so that green pests do not make their way to you from your neighbors.
It is quite difficult to overestimate the benefits of mulching - it is a great way not only to protect the soil from weeds, but also to improve its condition. Moisture is well preserved under a layer of mulch, the surface of the soil does not crack, earthworms and other garden helpers actively reproduce. Cultivated plantings in such an environment feel very comfortable, and weed seeds do not germinate due to the lack of heat and light.
Anything can be used as mulch:
- cardboard and old newspapers;
- dry hay and straw;
- dried chopped grass from a lawn mower;
- coniferous litter, needles and cones;
- tree bark, wood chips and sawdust;
- special covering materials (film or geotextile);
- crushed stone, pebbles, stone.
Stone mulch does not change the composition of the soil, and the bark of trees, sawdust and chips in the process of decay can acidify it and harm cultural plantings
The thicker the mulch layer, the less likely fresh seeds will reach the nutrient layer, and perennial weeds will find the strength to break through to the light. The choice of material for mulching is dictated not only by the capabilities and desire of the owner of the site, but by expediency. Remember that organic mulch tends to rot and should be added periodically.
There are also less traditional methods of weed control: burning out overgrowth with a gas burner; spraying with a solution of soap, salt and vinegar; complex planting and cultivation of green manure. In any case, only a combination of control methods can give the maximum effect, which includes the total removal of weeds with the obligatory prevention of their reappearance on the site.
Knowing the weak points in the enemy's defenses, carefully thought out strategy and skillful conduct of hostilities is the key to success in the fight even against weeds. If everything is done correctly, weeds will cease to bother with their abundance after just a couple of years, and then you can devote much more time and attention to caring for your favorite plants.
How to get rid of weeds and grass forever
In dry times, the first task for gardeners is to irrigate vegetables, shrubs, and berry fields. After all, without water on personal plots, everything withers, turns yellow, dies. But malicious weeds and wild-growing herbs growing in the same conditions may not even feel a lack of moisture, a drying wind and an overabundance of the sun.
Weeds do not need caring human hands, loosening a hard soil crust, feeding and spraying, destroying pests and fungi. Weed survival can only be envied.
They grow where it is convenient for them, without asking permission and without waiting for the soil to be fertilized and disinfected. At the same time, they themselves will get moisture and nutrition from the soil and air, but without mercy they will ruin young seedlings left without human supervision and seedlings of cultivated plants that have just emerged from the ground.
People have to constantly struggle with these very independent weeds - thistles and swans, burdocks and bindweeds and many other herbs in order to provide themselves with the fruits of cultivated plants.
The content of the article:
1. How to get rid of weeds and grass once and for all with folk remedies
2. What chemicals can be used
3. How to use weed vinegar
4. How to get rid of weeds and grass easily and for a long time
5. Weeding methods in the fight against grass
6. How to get rid of weeds in the country without weeding without chemicals
7. Does vinegar and salt help weeds and herbs
8. How to deal with weeds in a flower bed
9. How to get rid of grass between paving slabs
10. Means for processing grass in the cemetery
How to deal with weeds
Many experienced gardeners know how to destroy weeds in the garden in a natural and fairly quick way. The entire area is covered with a certain flooring that prevents the penetration of sunlight. Accordingly, this prevents weeds from germinating.
To do this, use thick cardboard, black film, special black covering material, straw, sawdust, pine needles, and so on. In order to control weeds more effectively, combine several methods. For example, cover the soil with any, even a transparent film, and cover the top with straw or any other mulch.
Black agrofibre is considered an effective material. It can allow water and air to pass through, but the sun's rays cannot. But before trying this method for the first time, thoroughly weed the weeds beforehand and only then cover the soil. In this case, the coating must be well fixed. For these purposes, you can use stones or bricks that are laid out around the entire perimeter.
How to get rid of grass in the area (on the lawn)
It would seem that it is easier than maintaining a neat appearance of the lawn, because caring for the grass in this case is much easier than for flower beds or beds. But in practice, it is not that easy. Plants such as quinoa, red clover, plantain, dandelion, bluegrass can regularly spoil the look of the trimmed space. No less persistent are the creeping weeds - bindweed, common blackhead, parasitic plant - dodder.
With a small amount of such herbs, of course, you can deal with them manually using:
- for upright grasses - scoop, hoe or planting fork
- for curly ones - a rake.
Also, a convenient Fokin flat cutter, or a spatula with a narrow blade, will be of help in agrotechnical work.
Mulching can also help in the fight against "parasites":
- The easiest option is to leave cut, well-chopped grass on the lawn, but this layer should be thin and even. Mulching too tightly and applying a lot of grass can prevent air from reaching the ground, and this can lead to the development of fungus and other infections.
- In autumn, after the final mowing of the grass, sawdust or peat mixed with river sand and garden soil (1: ½: 1) is placed on the lawn. For each square meter, 1.5 kg of the mixture will be required. The layer should be no more than 0.5 cm. At the same time, it is desirable to add a small amount of fertilizer to the composition. Previously, the mowed grass is removed from the lawn, and the soil is pierced 10-15 cm deep along the entire perimeter.
You can also mulch with other materials - crushed stone, green mass, sawdust, a special film that does not allow the process of photosynthesis.
Along with this, folk remedies and herbicides for grass and weeds will help:
- Tricarboxylic hydroxy acid, or citric acid, is mixed with vinegar (1: 3), the composition is gently sprayed onto the lawn grass using a spray bottle. The area can be treated with vinegar and salt. You will need a liter of vinegar, 130 g of salt and a spoonful of dishwashing liquid. Spraying should be done on a hot, sunny day. Separately, the grass moistened with water is sprinkled with salt, but there is another option - half a glass of the product is poured with hot water, adding a little liquid soap to it, and spraying is carried out.
- If it happens that the lawn is literally overgrown with weeds, you will have to use specialized preparations to combat such vegetation. They are of general and selective action, they can affect the ground part of the plant, or penetrate into all its parts, including the root system, and then the final death occurs. Means for total extermination, such as Sniper, Tornado, Goliath, are used before planting the grass, while selective ones - Magnum or Lontrel are used already during the growth of the lawn. Poisonous compounds are most effective in the spring and summer, when the grass is just beginning to grow. 3-4 days before treatment, the lawn is not cut, and dry, calm weather is chosen for the procedure. Sometimes it is necessary to repeat the spraying. Owners should also restrict access to the site for several days for children and pets, for whom the sprayed poison can be dangerous.
In the end, you can resort to buying lawn grass, which is not afraid of weeds, moreover, she herself will be able to displace them from the site. These are red fescue, meadow bluegrass, bent grass, however, in the latter case, you will have to regularly water the plant. Correct mowing of the lawn will also help prevent weeds from rooting and growing - its height should be at least five centimeters.
Underestimating the value of mulch is one of the mistakes of farmers. Agriculture means making land. Mulch inhibits the growth of weeds, protects the land from drying out in the heat and from cooling at night.
Mulch restores soil nutrients and habitat for earthworms. Mulched beds do not need to be watered as often as beds without mulch. Mulched beds do not need to be weeded and loosened. The grass does not grow under the mulch, the earth is not covered with a hard crust.
Mulch is a layer of organic matter on the surface of the earth. By spreading the mulch with a layer of 5-15 centimeters on the surface of the earth, we deprive the weeds of light. Rare blades of grass that have broken through the mulch will not be difficult to pull out.
You will need a lot of herbs for mulch, because you need to mulch the beds, aisles, and paths. The mulch is overcooked and needs to be constantly added. The most affordable and budgetary option for weed mulch is the weeds themselves. In the garden, I put the plucked weeds on the paths between the beds, in the spring I dig up the grass that has rotted over the winter with the soil.
I replenish the grass stocks in three ways - I mow field grasses outside my garden, the second way is to sow green manures, where there are no cultivated plantings, the third way to get grass for mulch is the most trump card.
Several years ago, I noticed how neighbors were amicably carrying grass in buckets behind the railroad, and invited them to empty the grass near my gate. It's good for them to wear half the distance, and organic matter is a gift to me.
I prepare the mown grass for mulching as follows: I put the mowing in a small haystack, water it well with water and cover it with a black film for 3 - 5 days.
Under the film, the grass heats up to a temperature of over 50 degrees, I can't say more precisely - the thermometer is off scale. High temperatures kill pests, and grass seeds lose their germination. So that the film is not blown away by the wind, fix the corners with improvised means.
You can mow with a sickle, a Lithuanian, a trimmer - choose what is more to your liking and strength. I don't have the patience to fiddle with the line at the trimmer and listen to the buzzing over my ear, so I abandoned the trimmer in favor of the Lithuanian.
I mulch planting garlic, tomato, peppers, eggplants, carrots, beets with cut grass. From a layer of mulch 15 cm at the beginning of the season, by the fall there are three centimeters left. I rake the remains of mulch with a rake in one pile - they will be useful next year, and will not interfere with digging up the earth.
Wear gloves and long sleeves when handling grass. I once worked with my bare hands with a bare belly, then for two weeks I walked with blisters all over my body. Upon contact of open skin with grass, he received chemical burns.
Burns on the skin are left by buttercup, cow parsnip, euphorbia, belladonna, and nettle known to everyone from childhood.
If contact with the listed plants occurs, the area of the skin where the juice has gotten, rinse with cold water and protect from direct sunlight.
Sawdust mulching has its pros and cons. Sawdust does not grow underfoot; not everyone has the opportunity to bring them to their place. On the way to my garden there is a sawmill, there they distribute sawdust for free. The demand for free sawdust exceeds the supply, they do not have time to cut at all.
Sawdust is sold in garden shops and markets, but I see no point in spending money on their purchase when there is free pine needles in the nearest forest.
Mulch perennial plantings with sawdust, where in the near future there will be no digging of the earth - near-trunk circles of shrubs and trees, beds with garden strawberries.
So as not to constantly weed the beds with strawberries, once pull out all the grass, loosen the ground and cover the beds with a thick layer of sawdust, 5 centimeters. Pour sawdust between the bushes and gently rake to the center of the bush, lifting the leaves. The main thing is not to fall asleep in the middle of the bush - the growth point. After that, it will remain to water and occasionally pull out especially harmful blades of grass.
Plantings of currants and gooseberries, if you do not follow them, become so overgrown with grass that you cannot get to the bush. Here sawdust comes to the rescue again. With a chopper or Fokin's flat cutter, weed out the grass around the bush, not necessarily cleaned up.
Then there is one little secret... If you immediately cover the ground with sawdust, then the weeds will remind of themselves in a couple of months. If the space near the trunk is covered with pieces of cardboard in two or three layers, and then covered with sawdust, then you will forget about weeds in this place for several years.
It is not necessary to fall asleep close to the trunk, leave a few centimeters of free space for the shrub to grow.
I first take out the metal staples from the cardboard and tear off the tape. Scotch tape easily breaks off wet cardboard. Lettering and drawings on cardboard are not hazardous because modern printing ink is lead-free.
Cardboard boxes can be asked at your local store, they are thrown away anyway.
As practice has shown, the use of sawdust for mulching annual crops and paths is not effective. For these purposes, mowed grass is ideal.
How to get rid of weeds forever: using chemicals and folk remedies
Weed plants are able to grow rapidly, taking all the nutrients from the soil for useful crops. And if you do nothing, you can be left without a crop. It is impossible to get rid of weeds and grass forever. Their seeds remain productive for a long period, despite heat, cold or drought. And in the unequal struggle with garden crops, weeds will always have an advantage.
But there are effective ways to keep weeds to a minimum.
This method allows you to achieve quick results, while spending a minimum of effort and time. But the use of chemicals should be strictly according to the instructions, observing the consumption rates and the period of application of the drugs.
The choice of chemicals, or "herbicides", depends on the ultimate goal of the gardener and the type of weeds that uncontrollably colonize the summer cottage. These drugs fall into two main categories, depending on their effect:
- systemic - when the agent gets on the foliage, it gradually spreads through all plant tissues, affecting not only the aerial part, but also the root system
- contact - the effect of the drug extends especially to the site of the poison.
Herbicides are of continuous and selective action. The first should be used to remove all plants on the site. This method is especially effective in clearing virgin lands, helps to cope with such malicious weeds as ragweed and hogweed. As a result of the treatment carried out, the gardener will receive a clean area.
In the second case, the use of the drug allows you to remove weeds without harming beneficial crops. But at the same time, the root will remain intact, and therefore the weed will recover over time and resume its vegetation.
Popular drugs for use at their summer cottage:
|Antipyre||Helps get rid of perennial and annual cereal weeds. It is recommended to use the herbicide in the spring when the first shoots of grass appear at a positive air temperature. The drug has a systemic effect, destroying both the aerial part and the root. To achieve it, it is necessary that within 2-3 hours after treatment it is not washed off the foliage, therefore, spraying should be carried out in dry warm weather. Weed death occurs within 3 days|
|Zenkor||It is effective to use the herbicide on already grown weeds in the beds with potatoes, peas, beans and soybeans. In this case, it is necessary to use the tool at a time when useful crops are only hatching, and the weeds have already grown for the most part. On sandy soils, the dosage should be an order of magnitude less than on chernozem and heavy loams. Therefore, the processing should be carried out, strictly following the instructions, and then in 2-3 days the complete death of the weed occurs.|
|Hurricane forte||The herbicide is intended for pre-sowing treatment of the site. Effectively fights against such types of weeds as sow thistle, wheatgrass, birch, dandelion, squid. 2 weeks after the spraying, the area is completely cleaned. It is necessary to apply the product on already grown weeds 3-4 weeks before planting the main crops|
|Lintour||The drug has a selective effect, which allows you to destroy weeds without harming the main crops. Its use is especially effective against dandelion, plantain, buttercup, clover, pickleberry, sow thistle, shepherd's purse, bedstraw. The death of annual plants occurs within a few hours, and of perennial plants - 2-3 weeks after the treatment. The duration of the protective action is 8 weeks|
|Liquidator||The herbicide is of continuous action, therefore, it can be used to cleanse the site before planting the main crops or after harvesting in the fall. A feature of the drug is that it acts over a wide range of temperatures, is not washed off by precipitation. Copes effectively with perennial and annual weeds and even shrubs|
|Roundup||Universal drug of continuous action. Weed spraying should be done before planting the main crops or after harvest. A feature of the product is that it does not have soil activity and therefore useful crops can be sown on the cleaned area the next day after treatment. Completely destroys annual, perennial, cereal and dicotyledonous weeds|
|Tornado||The herbicide has a systemic effect and, therefore, when it gets on the foliage, it quickly spreads throughout the aboveground and root parts of the weeds. Blocks the synthesis of aromatic amino acids, which leads to the defeat of the main points of growth, as a result of which the plants stop developing and eventually die. Its use is effective against wheatgrass, thistle, bindweed, sedge, reeds, and reeds. And also the herbicide allows you to restrain the uncontrolled spread of shrubs and trees on the site: raspberries, hawthorns, rose hips, maple, aspen, birch, willow|
|Lapis lazuli||A selective drug that stops the process of photosynthesis in the tissues of weeds, and thereby leads to their death. Allowed to use before sowing or with the growth of 5 cm seedlings of potatoes and tomatoes. Fights more than 50 types of weeds, and it is equally effective for irrigation and for spraying foliage. Within 2 weeks, the weeds completely die, and the duration of the protective effect is 30-60 days, depending on the regularity of the rains|
|Gezagard||A systemic drug that is equally absorbed by the root, leaves and stems of annual and perennial weeds. Designed for the treatment of areas intended for sowing potatoes, carrots, coriander, peas, beans, dill, parsley. When applied on heavy loamy soils, it is recommended to use a more concentrated solution than usual. Treatment should be carried out before sowing the main crops on well-moistened soil.|
|Glysol||Postemergence herbicide that stops the synthesis of aromatic amino acids, which leads to the suppression and subsequent destruction of the growth point of weeds. Upon contact with foliage within several hours, it completely spreads through all plant tissues. It does not have soil activity, therefore, its effect extends to vegetative grasses, without harming the seeds. Complete weed death occurs within 2 weeks after treatment.|
Many gardeners are afraid to destroy plants in a modern way, using herbicides, as they believe that they can accumulate in the fruit, which will affect the harvest. But this is an erroneous opinion, since when they hit the soil and under the influence of ultraviolet rays, they evaporate, decompose and disintegrate into harmless components.
When using herbicides, it is necessary to observe the processing time, the waiting period and the dosage of the agent, and then the harvested crop will be environmentally friendly.
Experts identify several basic rules when working with chemicals, which will ensure their maximum efficiency and safety:
- most drugs are recommended to be used at a stable above-zero temperature, after dew has evaporated
- it is not allowed to use herbicides in rainy weather with high humidity, since the leaves will not be able to fully absorb the drug
- each chemical has its own spectrum of action for certain types, therefore it is necessary to carefully study the attached instructions
- during the treatment, safety measures must be observed, excluding the contact of the solution on the skin
- spraying is recommended during the active growing season of weeds, when the aboveground part is maximally developed
- preliminary digging of the site is not recommended, since mechanical damage to plants does not allow the drug to fully spread over all weed tissues
- after spraying, the soil on the site must not be turned over and loosened for 3 weeks.
Observing the simple rules for the use of herbicides, you can clear the garden from weeds with minimal physical and time costs.
If gardeners refuse to use chemicals to get rid of weeds, and also if the processing time is missed, and it is necessary to fight, then you can use folk remedies based on the available components. Home-prepared compositions are a kind of poison for weeds, leading to their death.
|Means||Preparation and use|
|Alcohol||For processing, it is necessary to dilute alcohol with water in a ratio of 1:10. The drug should be used to cultivate the land around the plantings of the main crops. This will make it possible to disinfect the soil, excluding the germination of weeds on it.|
|Vinegar and salt||It is necessary to pour 2 liters of 9% vinegar into a bucket, add 100 g of salt and 50 ml of any dish detergent. Stir the mixture thoroughly and use it to treat weeds, avoiding contact with the leaves of useful crops. The best time to spray with vinegar is in the early morning when there is no dew. To prepare a working solution, you will need to mix equal amounts of salt, vinegar and grated laundry soap. It is recommended to use the resulting mixture for spraying weed foliage immediately after preparation.|
|Vinegar and lemon juice||It is required to add 5 tablespoons of lemon juice to 1 liter of vinegar, then pour 70 ml of dishwashing liquid and 50 ml of medical alcohol. Weed treatment should be carried out immediately after preparation of the product. To spray young plants, you can dilute the solution with water in a ratio of 1 to 2. To prepare the product, you will need to pour 2 cups of acetic acid and 1 glass of water into a container, mix and add 1 teaspoon of citric acid and 30 ml of any detergent. Use weed treatment solution, avoiding main crops|
|Salt||For processing, it is necessary to add 2 tablespoons of salt to 1 liter of hot water and stir until it is completely dissolved. Use to water the weeds while the water is still warm. Sprinkle over the weeds and sprinkle with salt or pinch at the base of the plants. This will have a disastrous effect on them. But often this method is not recommended to use, as it can negatively affect the composition of the soil.|
|Baking soda||To obtain an effective remedy, it is enough to dissolve 1 tablespoon of soda in 1 liter of warm water. Apply to watering weeds|
|Boiling water||To destroy the grass, it is necessary to pour boiling water over the weed on top, but the effect may not come immediately, but after using the method at least 2-3 times. You should also water it with hot water in which the eggs were boiled, then the death of plants occurs faster|
|Corn flour||This product is high in gluten, which inhibits seed germination. It is necessary to scatter flour between plantings of the main crops, and you can forget about the reappearance of weeds for a long time.|
Other methods can be used along with spraying and watering the weeds.
Weeding with Advanced Garden Forks
Weeding is the easiest way to kill weeds. But it is ineffective. For best results, it is recommended to use a garden pitchfork to help pull the weed out without damaging the root. The procedure takes time and physical effort. To prevent the weeds from recovering, it is necessary to carry out at least 3 weeding during the whole season.
Freezing is another method that is associated with the death of weed roots after digging a site in the fall. Plants freeze out in winter, unable to re-root.
Weeds have the ability to actively grow in unoccupied areas. Therefore, to prevent their uncontrolled growth, it is recommended to practice sowing between rows and after harvesting special green manure plants. This method allows you not only to clean the area, but also to enrich it with nutrients.
Mulching with sawdust and roofing felt
Any plant grows in the presence of light. And therefore, to destroy weeds, you can apply a method of mulching the site, which will deprive them of the conditions necessary for development. For this, it is recommended to use black film, agrofibre, rotted compost, sawdust, straw. The method will require patience, as one season will not be enough to remove the weeds. Organic mulch should be laid in a layer of 5-10 cm, and it should be refilled as needed.
The attrition method will help remove single weeds. It is necessary to constantly cut the plant at the base, preventing its flowering. The weed will need a lot of strength to resume vegetation, and therefore, sooner or later, it will not have enough strength to germinate.
In order to prevent the re-spread of creeping wheatgrass from neighboring plots, it is recommended to protect the garden from the contaminated area. To do this, you need to make a 20 cm trench around the perimeter and insert sheets of slate, roofing material or iron into it. The weed cannot overcome this barrier.
How to get rid of weeds in the country for good? Is this possible?
I really want to get rid of the grass at the dacha, but so that once I get rid of it and that's it! And then you pull, pull and understand that this is all for a maximum of 2-3 weeks, then everything is all over again. It seems that in the spring I carefully chose everything from the ground, all the roots and rhizomes, I thought there would not be a blade of grass! Where exactly!
I also want to make a lawn, but I understand that the weeds that grow on the proposed future lawn will not leave the lawn grass a chance of survival. Yes, and then pull them through the lawn somehow. How to get rid of them?
Mom processed the grass between the beds with a roundup, but it also does not get rid of the grass forever.
the amount of weeds depends on the chemical composition of the soil - the more acidic the soil, there are more weeds. So try to apply more alkaline fertilizer (ash) and the amount of weeds will decrease dramatically. The rest can be achieved by mulching - our neighbor lined the paths with old linoleum - it even looked funny, but no weeds.
Unfortunately, ash dissolves very quickly in the soil, so in this case, "you can't spoil the porridge with oil."
Getting rid of weeds for good is unlikely to succeed. Although you can try. The main thing is not to give up.
The first, after hibernation, comes out wheatgrass
This plant is incredibly tenacious. Moreover, each bush gives up to 10 thousand seeds. It is still capable of growing back from chopped off roots. Just like in a horror movie.
But all the same it is possible, with success, to fight this monster.
Wheatgrass does not like to be constantly mowed. Do not let it grow, mow more often and it will die.
Dandelion. It may make delicious jam, but it is the same weed as the previous wheatgrass.
And you need to fight it the same way. Mow until it blooms.
In the same way, to fight such a weed as - to run away.
An effective remedy against all three weeds is to pull them out along with the roots. But it also does not give 100% results.
Grows very quickly - wood lice.
This weed must be weed out with a hoe and removed from the site. After weeding out, ash or lime is added to the ground.
Very dangerous for human health - hogweed. If its juice gets into the eyes, it can lead to blindness. And burns remain on the skin.
Therefore, when dealing with it, you need to take into account this danger.
To get rid of the hogweed, you need to give an injection. Yes, exactly the injection. The plant is hollow inside and into this cavity using a large syringe and a needle you need to inject the Roundup herbicide or 70% vinegar solution.
The injection must be done into the trunk of the plant, near the ground itself.
After the hogweed dies, it must be dug up and burned.
Getting rid of weeds is very simple and low cost, buy a bottle of Ground, Roundup, Hurricane Forte or Lontrel, treat the area according to the instructions and after 3 weeks only a bunch of hay will be left from weeds.
I myself annually treat all the worst weeds and places with herbicides and now, it takes me 20 minutes a year and 100 rubles for the preparation itself. The site became clean, all the pipes are removed, burdocks and nettles are just a memory for me.
Treatment near cultivated plants has never had any consequences.
as soon as the snow melts, make the following composition: on a bucket of water, half a liter of beer or something else alcohol and spray the area. the grass grows like crazy. cut off with a hoe 9 or spray the fokin0 again. almost all the seeds hatch three times in three. and when there are cultivated plantings, the grass will almost disappear by this time.
I have a dacha for more than twenty years and this issue worries me too, but alas, I do not know any other way to get rid of weeds, except for timely weeding. I don’t use Roundal because I don’t want to grow vegetables that will have chemistry. The pololnik, which my husband made from a clock spring, helps a lot, it is very sharp and strong, a loop is made that is attached to the handle, I cut the weeds with it when they have grown by 3-4 centimeters between plantings in the garden bed and in the aisles. It is imperative to collect those plants in which seeds are formed, so that they are not sown. The lawn grass must be mowed, otherwise the number of weeds on the site will increase. We once went on vacation, the grass grew very quickly and formed seeds, and now for the second year I have been fighting this lawn grass all over the site. The number of weeds increased after they began to cultivate the land with a cultivator, the roots were crushed and gave new shoots, such a nasty grass as wheatgrass and sow thistle, you also need to tear it out immediately.
We get rid of grass on the site using chemistry
It is very difficult to get rid of what is growing uncontrollably. From year to year the same thing, and the summer is very short. Therefore, I do not really want to spend it on weed control. You can use herbicides to help you get things done quickly and efficiently.
To do this, stores sell products that will help to destroy certain types of weeds, or absolutely everything. Which method of struggle will you choose?
There are several types of herbicides:
1. Those who act only in the place where they fall - contact
2. And those that get on the stems and leaves, penetrate the root system and completely destroy the plant - systemic.
They also differ in the area of impact.
The solid differs in that it acts on the entire surface that it hit and even nearby. That is, it completely destroys everything, even shrubs. Therefore, process where there are no cultural crops nearby. But think for yourself what might remain after such treatment and what will happen to the soil and insects?
As I said, there are many chemicals, but the most popular are:
- Lontrel - zood
- Lapis lazuli
- Bis - 300
Agrokiller and Tornado are the strongest. Even cow parsnip, wheatgrass, horsetail and even shrubs with trees are capable of them. Therefore, they are perfect for very overgrown areas and fields for planting crops.
It is quite simple to use a tornado for 3 liters of water, 25-50 ml is taken. funds. Approximately 100 m² is enough for processing.
But the most important thing to remember, when you spray the diluted solution, see that there is no rain for at least 6 hours. This applies to all herbicides.
Speaking of these drugs, there are pretty good reviews, so buy and use. There will be no grass, I guarantee!
These are the simple and easy ways to control weeds. They will help you keep your site in frequency effortlessly. Perhaps you know some other ways and are ready to share with us. Write to us in the comments, ask questions to which you do not know the answer. We will be happy to help you in this difficult matter. Until next time!
Weed grass of independent type of nutrition (autotrophic)
This species is distinguished by the fact that it has a well-developed deciduous and root system, is able to produce organic substances from inorganic ones, and also independently extracts water and mineral elements. There are 2 subspecies of them - juveniles and perennials:
Young weeds have a short life cycle (no more than 2 years), reproduce only at the expense of seeds and die when they mature. These plants are classified into groups:
- Ephemera. They have a short growing season (up to 2 months), they can germinate 2-3 times per season, they settle in the country house and in the garden (spring vernacular, oak groats, desert beetroot)
- Early spring. Appear at the beginning of spring and ripen for harvesting, thereby littering the land and sowing materials (white marsh, wild radish)
- Spring late. They sprout closer to summer, ripen by the end of autumn, falling into the harvests of spring crops (chicken millet, thrown back)
- Winter crops. They hibernate in the soil, appear in late August and early September. Mostly found among grain rye crops (field fire, blizzard)
- Wintering weeds can enter both in spring and in autumn, they are not afraid of frost, therefore they endure winter, being at any stage of ripening, settle among noble winter and spring crops (blue cornflower, shepherd's purse)
- Two-year-old plants in the first year of their life cycle form foliage, stem, root system, bloom and bear fruit in the second year (common Velcro, black henbane, sverbyga). Perennial weeds have a life expectancy of more than 3-4 years. Every year it multiplies in the summer cottage with the help of seeds, roots, bulbs and tubers. Due to the organs of vegetative reproduction, they are divided into groups:
- taproot - thorny plants, spread by buds located on lateral roots, less often by seeds (wild chicory, sour sorrel)
- root suckers - multiply their colonies by subterranean adventitious buds and seeds (field sow thistle, field bindweed)
- tuberous - they reproduce with the help of tubers formed from lateral roots deep in the ground (tuberkamysh seaside, round feeding)
- rhizomatous - the most common types of weeds of all cultivated plants, it is very difficult to get rid of them because of the powerful root system deeply planted up to 60 cm, which plays the main role of a vegetative organ (creeping wheatgrass, field horsetail)
- creeping - they grow by launching whips of antennae, stem shoots that take root on the ground (cinquefoil goose, creeping buttercup).