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Fertilizing With Alfalfa Meal: How To Use Alfalfa Meal In The Garden

Fertilizing With Alfalfa Meal: How To Use Alfalfa Meal In The Garden


By: Anne Baley

If you’ve ever been around horses, you know they love alfalfa meal as a tasty treat. Organic gardeners know it for another reason: it’s a great natural fertilizing agent for blooming plants. Alfalfa meal fertilizer contains trace elements that help flowering perennials and shrubs to bloom faster and longer during the season. Read on for more alfalfa meal gardening info for an efficient soil conditioner as well as a boost to your flowering plants.

Fertilizing With Alfalfa Meal

What is alfalfa meal? This organic garden booster is a product of fermented alfalfa plant seeds. It’s light and airy looking and has a pleasant, earthy smell. Alfalfa meal generally comes in large quantities, as you use it generously around all your blooming perennials and shrubs.

Although you may be able to find alfalfa meal at some larger garden centers, it may be easier and less expensive to get at feed and animal stores. If you’re near a rural area or if you have an all-purpose animal supply house in the area, check there. Contact the nearest large veterinarian’s office as another source for alfalfa meal, or clues to where you can find it.

How to Use Alfalfa Meal in the Garden

There’s no great trick to learning how to use alfalfa meal. The amount you use is important, but it’s more likely that you won’t use enough rather than using too much.

Sprinkle about 2 cups of the meal around rose bushes or other shrubs of that size. Add a generous line of the meal alongside hedges and broadcast it quite heavily among large plantings. Work the alfalfa meal into the soil with a rake, then water the plants as usual.

Do the first application in the spring, when your plants begin to show new growth. Those plants that only bloom once in the year don’t need any more meal added. If you have blooming flowers that continue to show off during a longer season, add another application every six weeks.

Alfalfa meal is an alkaline substance, which means it shouldn’t be used with plants that prefer an acid soil, such as camellias or rhododendrons. It can be quite powdery, so wear a face mask when you spread it in the garden.

Finally, transfer any leftover alfalfa meal to a secure metal or heavy plastic storage container. Mice love the meal in large quantities and will chew through any bags left in storage.

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Alfalfa Meal Gardening Info - Usage And Source For Alfalfa Meal Fertilizer - garden

For every pound of alfalfa seed you plant per acre, you will be planting about five seeds per square foot. Seeding at the rate of 20 pounds per acre will result in 100 seeds per square foot. This may seem like a lot of alfalfa plants, but keep in mind that 60 percent or more of the seeds will not grow to maturity.

Dec 29, 2016 · For example, if you would traditionally plant oats at 3 bushels per acre, most successful growers cut the rate down to 1 bushel per acre as a nurse crop. Cut early – To give the young alfalfa plants the best chance of success, cut the nurse crop as soon as possible. For small grains, cut at boot stage rather than waiting for soft-dough stage.

Mar 29, 2018 · Alfalfa extracts are used in baked goods, beverages, and prepared foods, and the plant serves as a commercial source of chlorophyll and carotene.Bora 2011, Duke 1985. Chemistry. Dried alfalfa leaves are ground and sold as tablets or powder for use as nutritional supplements.

Mar 05, 2014 · Alfalfa plants aren't the most resilient, though, making this a harder to grow crop than many of the others featured on this list. Furthermore, alfalfa doesn't last very far into the fall and winter months. It provides great sustenance all summer long, but in years where the frost and cold come early, bucks and does will need other sources of .

Jan 02, 2019 · Alfalfa tea for plants can be used on a weekly basis as a good fertilizer. You can use it as a foliar spray or a soil drench, as preferred. Even if you're just breaking up alfalfa cubes in your water, keep the resulting water!

Sep 03, 2016 · Other Potential Health Benefits Improved Metabolic Health. One traditional use of alfalfa is as an anti-diabetic agent. Relieving Menopause Symptoms. Alfalfa is high in plant compounds called phytoestrogens. Antioxidant Effects. Alfalfa has a long history of use in Ayurvedic medicine to treat .

Jun 25, 2016 · The Alfalfa Tea Fertilizer Mix: Use 4 cups of alfalfa (in alfalfa meal or pellet form most likely) for every 5 gallons of water. Some people like to make larger quantities and use a 20 gallon drum (the size of a standard garbage can). You can add 1-2 cups of Epsom salt (magnesium sulphate crystals) for every 5 gallons of water.

Wisconsin alfalfa plant, page 1 alfalfa flowers Eric Holub, University of Wisconsin aphano-myces, seedling Jeffrey S. Jacobsen, Montana State University nutrient deficiencies—all except boron leaf (from Diagnosis of Nutrient Deficiencies in Alfalfa and Wheat) Pioneer Hi-Bred International, Inc. alfalfa closeups cover photo cow inside cover

May 11, 2015 · But as the Pacific Institute notes, a crop's ultimate value can exceed its sale price. "Alfalfa supports the state's beef and dairy industry and the value it produces likewise, almonds support several industries and are now used in beauty and food products, .

But the purple and yellow flowering plant has a much longer history than that and has been prized for its agricultural and health benefits for centuries. Also known as lucerne, buffalo grass and Meidcago sativa, alfalfa plants have been used as animal feed since Roman times and .

Alfalfa is used for a variety of herbal remedies including lowering cholesterol and treating arthritis symptoms. You're probably only familiar with the sprouts of this tall, bushy, leafy plant, but the entire plant is valuable. The sprouts are a tasty addition to many dishes, and the leaves and tiny .

Mar 29, 2019 · To grow alfalfa sprouts, rinse 1 tablespoon of alfalfa seeds and put them in a glass jar. Next, cover the seeds with 2 inches of cold water, cover the mouth of the jar with cheesecloth, and soak the seeds for 12 hours in a dry, warm place.

Alfalfa contains a wealth of nutrients that have been shown to be beneficial to plant growth. Alfalfa can be used in several forms – meal, cubes or pellets that are broadcast in the garden, or as a tea that is used as a foliar spray or soil drench. Alfalfa is a component of biological gardening. Read More

Alfalfa, (Medicago sativa), perennial, cloverlike, leguminous plant of the pea family (Fabaceae), widely grown primarily for hay, pasturage, and silage. Alfalfa is known for its tolerance of drought, heat, and cold and for the remarkable productivity and quality of its herbage. The plant is also

Dec 12, 2012 · The Use of alfalfa pellets & tea to help plants! Alfalfa meal and hay used for mulch contain vitamin A, folic acid, trace minerals and the growth hormone "tricontanol." Use at 25 pounds per 1,000 square feet or 400-800 pounds per acre. Alfalfa helps plants create larger flowers and increases the tolerance to cold.

What is alfalfa meal? This organic garden booster is a product of fermented alfalfa plant seeds. It's light and airy looking and has a pleasant, earthy smell. Alfalfa meal generally comes in large quantities, as you use it generously around all your blooming perennials and shrubs.

Jun 21, 2016 · Alfalfa (Medicago sativa) plant Medicinal uses. Alfalfa plant (Medicago sativa) is a perennial plant belonging to the pea family and is grown as a rummage crop in several countries around the globe. It is identified by a cluster of small purple flowers accompanied by fruits rolled in 2-3 turns having 15-20 seeds.

Dec 29, 2016 · For example, if you would traditionally plant oats at 3 bushels per acre, most successful growers cut the rate down to 1 bushel per acre as a nurse crop. Cut early – To give the young alfalfa plants the best chance of success, cut the nurse crop as soon as possible. For small grains, cut at boot stage rather than waiting for soft-dough stage.

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Edible Landscaping - Using Organic Fertilizers

Growing food organically is a hot topic across the country. Most of the attention is on avoiding pesticides or using organic and environmentally friendly products to control insects and diseases. However, growing organically also means using organic fertilizers.

Building up the fertility of the soil is one of the most important aspects of gardening. For years many gardeners used only synthetic fertilizers on their gardens. Synthetic fertilizers are manufactured products, while organic fertilizers are derived from plants, animals, or naturally occurring minerals. While both can go through a manufacturing process, there are advantages to using an organic fertilizer that's in a form close to its natural source.

Just like our bodies need nutrients to function and grow, so do plants. The soil contains many of the vital nutrients needed, but as plants use them, the soil can become depleted. Soil also can get depleted from erosion by wind and rain. Fertilizing is a way to replenish the fertility of the soil. The healthier the soil, the healthier the plants will be.

What do plants need? While there are at least 16 nutrient elements necessary for plant growth, the most important are nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium (referred to by the elemental symbols, N, P, and K). Most soils contain large reserves of the other 13 nutrients -- especially calcium, magnesium, sulfur, iron, zinc, and manganese -- that might also hitchhike along when you fertilize with the "big three."

To ensure that your soil has the right mix and balance of nutrients, you should do a soil test. Private laboratories and state cooperative extension services test garden soil for a nominal fee.


Sprinkle organic fertilizers on a garden bed before planting and mix them into the top few inches of soil.

The Advantage of Organics

The purest form of organic fertilizer is a plant, animal, or mineral that is applied to the garden without any processing. Good examples of these are green manures, animal manures, and wood ashes. The advantage to this form of fertilization is that not only are main nutrients mentioned above added to the soil, but organic matter and humus, as well. Organic matter improves soil structure, moisture retention, drainage, and the microbial life of the soil. An adequate amount of organic matter in the soil can help ensure that nutrients are available to plants on a steady basis and that the soil structure enhances root growth. Organic fertilizers dole out the nutrients more slowly than chemical fertilizers, so plant roots are less likely to be burned by getting too high a dose.

Even if you use processed organic amendments, such as alfalfa meal, bonemeal, and greensand, you'll still get many of the advantages. Plus, you can take care of the need for a specific nutrient by applying the appropriate fertilizer. For example, if your lettuce needs a shot of nitrogen, alfalfa meal would be a good choice. If you need more phosphorous to help your carrots grow, bonemeal would be a good addition.

Obviously, the best way to use organic fertilizers is to apply a combination of raw materials high in organic matter, such as manure, along with specific organic fertilizers to target crop needs. Another advantage of using raw materials, even leaves and straw, as part of your fertilizer program is you get to recycle materials that would otherwise end up in the landfill.

This is not to say there isn't a place for synthetic fertilizers. They do have some advantages. They cost less and are easier to transport, and they are more uniform in nutrient content. With the exception of controlled-release formulations, most synthetic fertilizers are more quickly available to plants than organic fertilizers.

Because organic fertilizers take time to break down and make their nutrients available to the soil, it's best to apply them at least a few months before planting, such as in the fall before a spring planting. Applying fertilizers early allows time for soil microbes to digest the organic matter and transform nutrients into a form plants can use. The exception would be liquid organic fertilizers, such as fish emulsion. These have nutrients that are readily available so they can be applied at planting or during the growing season.

The easiest way to apply organic fertilizers is to spread them on the soil surface or planting beds. Since most plant feeder roots are in the top few inches of the soil, there's no need to dig the nutrients down deeply unless you're applying a phosphorous fertilizer. This nutrient moves very slowly, so the only way to spread it quickly through the root zone is to mix it into the top 6 to 12 inches of soil.

How much fertilizer you should apply will depend on your soil's health. A rough estimate is to apply 2 pounds of actual nitrogen (100 pounds of 10-10-10 contains 10 pounds of "actual" nitrogen) per 1,000 square feet. Apply phosphorous and potassium at about one-tenth this rate, unless a soil test indicates otherwise.


Cow manure is a great organic fertilizer it's just a matter of finding some cows to oblige you.

Types of Organic Fertilizers

As I mentioned earlier, organic fertilizers can be grouped according to the source of their raw material. There are plant-based, animal-based, and mineral-based fertilizers available. I won't be covering mineral-based fertilizers such as greensand, rock phosphate, and Chilean nitrate here, but will refer you to another article, Minerals for Soil, for a detailed explanation of this fertilizer group.

Here are some examples of plant- and animal-based products you might use in your garden.

Plant-Based Fertilizers

Plant-based fertilizers are usually high in nitrogen and sometimes potassium. Some crops are grown specifically to be made into organic fertilizer while others, such as cottonseed meal, are by-products of another industry.

This fertilizer is also available in pellets. It has a moderate amount of nitrogen (2 to 3 percent) and contains some trace minerals.

This by-product of the corn-processing industry contains 10 percent nitrogen in a form that's quick to break down. It also has the unique ability to inhibit germination of seeds and is sold as an organic pre-emergent herbicide to control crabgrass in lawns.

This by-product of the cotton industry is made from the remains of cottonseeds after the oil is pressed out. It's a slow-release fertilizer, moderately high in nitrogen (6 percent), with some phosphorous. It can acidify the soil. Since cotton is such a heavily sprayed crop, there are concerns about pesticides on the seed and in the meal. It's best to buy low-residue or pesticide-free cottonseed meal.

Extracts of seaweed and kelp are found in meal and liquid forms. They are good sources of minerals, with some potassium and nitrogen. They also enhance the microbial activity in the soil. Liquid versions of seaweed can be sprayed directly on plants as a foliar fertilizer.

This high-nitrogen fertilizer (7 percent) is similar to alfalfa meal and contains more nitrogen than cottonseed meal.

Animal-Based Fertilizers

By-products from the dairy and meat processing industries produce a bevy of organic fertilizer products.

This product is exactly what it sounds like it's a by-product of the slaughtering industry and is a rich source of nitrogen (14 percent). The smell may attract dogs and wild animals to your garden.

Another by-product of the slaughtering industry, bonemeal is a rich source of phosphorous (11 percent) and calcium (22 percent), and it supplies some nitrogen. "Steamed" bonemeal has less nitrogen but somewhat faster nutrient availability than "raw" bonemeal.

By-products from the fish industry yield organic fertilizer products such as fish emulsion and fish meal. These are high in nitrogen (up to 10 percent) and quickly available to plants.


You can make your own worm castings (worm poop) at home with kits such as this Can-O-Worms. It's a fun family project.

Manures can be derived from a variety of animals and even insects. Most are available bagged, composted, and sometimes sterilized.

The nutrient composition of animal manures varies based on the animal, the bedding, and method of manure storage. While it's easy to go to a garden center to pick up a bag of composted manure, if you need larger quantities of manure you can visit a local farm and see if they have an old pile of manure sitting nearby. Aged manure is better than fresh, and cow is better than horse (high in weed seeds), but any manure will give you the advantages we've been talking about.

Cow manure is the manure most commonly found bagged in garden centers. While nutrient content is low, the plants can absorb them moderately quickly. Manure from sea birds, chickens, and bats is rich in nutrients, especially nitrogen. Highly soluble and quickly available nutrients are useful early in the season to stimulate vegetative growth. However, high-nitrogen chicken manures and guanos can burn tender plant roots. It's best to use them as a foliar feed, diluted in water or in a composted form.

Worm castings are similar to compost in their composition, and they are equally easy to produce at home. Because nutrient levels are so low in worm castings, they are — like compost — considered more of a soil amendment than a fertilizer.

See the article about Composting with Worms to learn how to make your own worm castings.

Compost is considered the Cadillac of organic fertilizers. Compost can be made from plant-, animal-, and mineral-based materials. The beauty of making compost is that no matter what material you start with, the end product is relatively similar. Finished compost has a low but good balance of nutrients, while being high in organic matter that helps feed the soil's microorganisms.

Composts are available commercially or you can make your own. They can be used along with other fertilizers. Ingredients in commercial composts include various kinds of animal manures and lawn and garden wastes. Making compost is a way to deal with yard waste and make fertilizer simultaneously, and you always know what ingredients went into the finished product.

For other stories on organic fertilizers, go to:

Charlie Nardozzi is an award winning, nationally recognized garden writer, speaker, radio, and television personality. He has worked for more than 30 years bringing expert gardening information to home gardeners through radio, television, talks, tours, on-line, and the printed page. Charlie delights in making gardening information simple, easy, fun and accessible to everyone. He's the author of 6 books, has three radio shows in New England and a TV show. He leads Garden Tours around the world and consults with organizations and companies about gardening programs. See more about him at Gardening With Charlie.

Why Use Alfalfa in Your Garden as a Natural Fertilizer Solution?

As our plants grow through each season, they deplete minerals from the soil. When the season comes to an end, the soil then becomes nutrient deficient, meaning the soil no longer has the substances that provide nourishment for essential growth and life that your plants need to flourish. Fruit and vegetables are particularly vulnerable to soil depletion if the soil does not contain the nutrients needed, the plants will deliver fewer and smaller fruits and veggies. Every year your soil should be replenished with fertilizer adding these essential nutrients back, but finding a fertilizer that’s not full of chemicals can be somewhat of a challenge for most gardeners. Standlee Premium Western Forage®’s Organic Alfalfa Pellets can help fill that void.

Alfalfa Lawn and Garden Benefits

  • An Excellent Source of Nitrogen
  • Stimulates Growth and Builds Organic Matter
  • Easy Application and Dust Free
  • 100% Alfalfa – No Added Ingredients
  • All Natural and Pet Safe

Alfalfa Pellets act as a slow-release fertilizer that is an excellent source of nitrogen. Alfalfa also contains trace minerals and triacontanol, a naturally occurring growth promoter, which is great for roses! Alfalfa Pellets can be used several different ways in gardening during the growing season, to slowly release added nutrients to your garden all season long, it can be used at the end of the season for amending your soil, or it can be added to your compost pile, acting as a stimulator.

Using pellets as an activator in your compost - Soak them overnight with water and then spread onto the compost. When soaked, alfalfa will decompose rapidly, creating heat which will help the rest of your compost to decompose with a higher nutrient level due to the use of the alfalfa. Higher nutrient levels in your compost and soil means more nutrient-dense produce in your garden!

Providing a natural solution to fertilizing hopefully just became a lot easier with the help of Standlee Premium Western Forage® alfalfa products.

CONTEST TIME – What do you love about gardening? Comment below to be entered in to win ONE (1) FREE BAG of Standlee® Alfalfa product from your local Standlee Retailer. (Contest ending 30 days from post date.)


How Much Alfalfa Meal Should I Use?

Organic fertilizers are best for plants.

Many gardeners use a combination of Alfalfa meal and kelp (or seaweed fertilizer) to complete the NPK (Nitrogen- Phosphorus- Potassium) content of the soil.

Alfalfa meal is derived from alfalfa grass and is rich in nitrogen and calcium.

Use the following list as a guide for how much Alfalfa meal you need to use:

  • 12 lbs/ 1000 square feet for a light coat (¼ cup per plant)
  • 25 lbs/ 1000 square feet for a regular coat (1/3 cup per plant)
  • 50 lbs/ 1000 square feet for a heavy application (1/2 cup per plant)


Alfalfa meal vs. alfalfa pellets

Track's talk about Epson Salts has got me all geared up for this task. But I also plan to add alfalfa pellets. That is, until my friendly feed storekeeper told me he had alfalfa meal which is what all the master gardeners were asking him to carry.

Any comments on the meal vs. pellets dilema? Hubby is giving me a hard time, he says alfalfa is too expensive a source of nitrogen.

i buy the pellets because my feedmill doesn't care the meal. i pay about 8 dollars for a 50 lb. bag. a bag lasts me all year. i just throw handfulls all over the garden and water it in. it becomes meal in about 5 minutes. even a heavy, overnight dew turns it into mush so if the meal is more expensive, i wouldn't bother. i know most people swear by the tea, it seems to me that adding the whole pellet to the garden makeup is actually improving the soil at the same time.

Either one is going to do the same thing. I get horse feed type pellets, make the tea, then spread the sludge. I've done the same with bigger chunks when the feed store was out of the little pellets. It's all alfalfa. Get the cheap and spend the money on roses. :)

I used the pellets. just added water and when it was all like green soup I gave it to the roses (and everything else. since I feel sorry not to give to the peonies, and lillies. they all seemed to like it. nothing died because of that . )

you should have seen me telling my nephew Alec that that was the "chicken nuggets" for roses. he believed me!

When making my alfalfa tea I use the meal when it is available but have used the pellets before,just crushed them a little bit .I don't think one really needs to ,probably extra work I did.
All my other flowers seem to benefit from it too when I used the slush from the bottom of the barrel especially the peonies.

I do Tracks method with the alfalfa. Last year I tilled it into the soil, but this year I'll spread and then cover with more compost. It does break down very quickly with the application of water. Actually, swells first and looks goofy. And stinky for a day or two. But, probably the best alfalfa is the already processed kind that's usually free at the local horse farm. Gotta get the aged stuff though.

Okay - I'll bite . . . why do you add alfalfa anything?

Gee Voss, why does he think it is expensive? Here I buy it for about $9 for a 50 pound bag of pellets. The meal I have only seen at one store, Longs Drug store no less. LOL. It was a few dollars more for 20 pounds I think. I much preferred the pellets, it doesn't blow all over and not as messy.

I love mixing it in my 5 gallon white buckets from HD. I add all sorts of things and have no clue why. All my left over end of the box stuff goes in. And then I let it rot a few days then stir it deep and then pour the sludge all over the yard under the roses. LOL.

I mixed some at a friend's house for her roses which were all old. And so is she. LOL. She got so mad at me after the fact ( she had been with me while I mixed it, etc.). I had even bought her the ingredients as a gift. I had left the remaining alfalfa from the 50 pound bag there in her barn. I got a call to come get it and never to dare mess up her yard again. LOL She was so mad at me. I was praying her roses would do incredible things so I make her beg me to bring it back!! But sadly they didn't.

Good question, Seandor. In the sticky thread at the top of the Rose Forum page, you'll find links to three alfalfa tea threads that will answer every question you'll ever have about alfalfa and roses.

Kell, I love that story. Years ago, some guy spread mulch in all of my flower beds. I made him come back and remove all of it. As I saw it, it was nothing but a breeding ground for earwigs and sowbugs. Besides, it was keeping all of my volunteer annuals from sprouting. I'm sure he still shakes his head at the crazy lady who didn't appreciate his gift.

it's just incredible. zuzu uses no mulch, no fertilizer, no pesticide and has some of the prettiest roses i've ever seen. and then on the flip side, we have kell, who throws in everything but the kitchen sink and has equally beautiful roses. you california girls got it together.

LOL Zuzu. At times we need to be saved from ourselves. This same friend just called the other day all mad that the standard brug I gave her and planted 2 years ago of Cream sickle appears to have died in the freeze. She wants me to come remove it and never clutter her yard again with such defective plants. LOL. I hope when I am old I am not so crabby or that I have such a nice friend as me. LOL

I had gone there one day and crossed about 30 flowers with great pollen. I went back a few weeks later and they had all taken. I was so thrilled. And though she understood and had agreed to it, when the pods got to a certain size, she picked them all off!! I asked her why oh why?? And she had no real reason. LOL! I remember when she was not ornery at all and a real dear so I just smile at her.

Oh Tracks, I didn't know Zuzu went totally al natural. Zuzu, you do not use any potions?

I am dangerous. I love new thigs and can't resist buying whatever has a good sales pitch or even a good picture on its bag. Zuzu has a great store that has all sorts of big bags that I really have no business buying. But I do and then I spread it all over and hope for the best. If everything dies, I just do not do that again. Well at least until I forget the dire consequences. LOL

i shouldn't say that. she uses alfalfa tea and a few little tricks. it's just that the major stuff that i buy enough of to choke a herd of horses, she doesn't even bother with-doesn't need to!

I used alfalfa tea last year and it didn't hurt anything, so I might use it again. I didn't see any appreciable difference from the year before, however. I just have really good soil and I always, always water from overhead. That knocks the bugs off, so I don't need pesticides. I do nothing about black spot, because it doesn't kill the rose, so I don't care.

I always put a handful of gopher poison and a banana peel at the bottom of each planting hole. Maybe roses like gopher poison.

I do, however, buy all sorts of things -- fertilizers, pesticides, etc. All of them are in the garage unopened. After a few years I throw them out, still unopened. Last year I bought a truckload of Messenger, but I never got around to using it, so it's in the garage too.

I should clarify that when Kell says "Zuzu has a great store," she means the great store in my neighborhood. I don't own a store, although I'd like to own a combination nursery/bookstore with lots of garden art and a bunch of working cats all over the place.


Alfalfa meal

Alfalfa Meal
Alfalfa provides many nutritional benefits not only for plant use, but for soil organisms as well. One very important ingredient is tricontanol, a powerful plant growth regulator.

Alfalfa Meal
This excellent source of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium also encourages beneficial microbes. Alfalfa decomposes rapidly, generating heat, so do not use it directly in planting holes or in contact with fragile roots. Scratch it lightly into the soil surface.

Alfalfa Meal (Organic)
Derived from sun-cured, non-genetically modified alfalfa that is freshly milled.
$9.50 $7.95 Read more .

as a tasty treat. Organic gardeners know it for another reason: it's a great natural fertilizing agent for blooming plants. Get more info here.
Read More.

Feed roses every spring, and improve the soil by spreading cottonseed meal or

around them at the rate specified on the bag. These organic products slowly break down all summer.

Some people scatter alfalfa pellets around the base of each bush others mix

, cover and let marinate for four days before pouring on the roots.

Going along with the notion behind the dead fish of early American times, you can use an organic fertilizer such as well-rotted compost, aged or dehydrated animal manures or concentrated animal or plant extracts like bloodmeal or

(high in nitrogen), 1/2 shovelful on each layer
Fish waste or manure (high in nitrogen), a shovelful on each layer
Wood stove or fireplace ashes (high in potash and carbon), a shovelful on each layer
Crushed rock dust (rich in minerals/feeds microbes), a shovelful on each layer .

Created by Sante Fe landscape design expert Donna Bronner, Yum Yum Mix is especially good for nutrient-poor alkaline soils, such as those found in and around New Mexico and other southwestern states. It includes a rich blend of

NITROGEN - contains proteins and is a food source for compost piles (grass clippings, green vegetable matter), and it stimulates green growth in plants. Sources are blood meal, cottonseed meal,

Supplementing soil with organic matter such as humus and compost is the best way to not only provide nutrients but also contribute to soil health. Other organic fertilizers include things like liquid seaweed, fish emulsion, and

For example, 7 ounces (about 1 cup) of ammonium nitrate is equivalent to 0.15 pounds. Authors of The Rodale Book of Composting recommend adding 2 to 3 pounds of organic nitrogen supplement (blood meal, manure, bonemeal,

) per 100 pounds of low nitrogen materials (for example, straw or sawdust).


Watch the video: Making Alfalfa Meal Fertilizer